25 Facts About Tampa Bay AutoNetwork - Tampa Used Car Dealer

1. Family Owned & Operated

2. BBB Accredited

3. 'A' Rated BBB Member

4. eBay Motors Platinum Level PowerSellers

5. 100% Poistive Feedback on eBay Motors

6. Carfax Certified Dealer

7. Favorite Place on Google

8. No Commision's

9. World Wide Customer Base

10. World Wide Shipping

11. Disocunted Shipping Rates

12. Preferred Credit Union Dealer

13. Treating People the Way We Want to be Treated

14. Built on Honesty & Integrity

15. Selling Serviced, Inspected, and Detailed Vehicles

16. Offering Local Trade-Ins @ Dealer Wholesale Prices

17. Specializing in Hard to Find Luxury and Specialty Vehicles: 4 Door Sedans, 2 Door Coupes, Roadsters, Convertibles, Sport Utility, Specialty Trucks....

18. Personalized Service

19. Phenomenal Communication

20. Provider of Nationwide Extended Service Plans

21. Unique, Hassle-Free Experience

22. Honoring Promises

23. Building Trust

24. Truth in Advertising

25. Conveniently Located
 
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How To Clean & Protect Your Convertible Top

The convertible automobile is a combination of beauty, performance and superior engineering. We all know why we are attracted to the sleek masterful design of a convertible, they are pleasing to the eye, and fun to drive.

Unlike coupes or sedans convertibles have special care requirements for the delicate convertible top material, whether it is made of fabric or vinyl and they should not be cared for like the painted surfaces of your car.

The longevity, performance and looks of your convertible top depends on regular maintenance which consists of proper cleaning and protection for your specific convertible top type. A simple hand wash or drive through the car wash is not enough and could result in premature deterioration which not only causes your convertible top to look bad but it could cause it to leak or lead to a costly replacement!

Cleaning and protecting your convertible top is very important when it comes to the maintenance of your car. This article will take you through simple steps that will keep your convertible top looking good and performing well for years to come.

IS MY CONVERTIBLE TOP FABRIC OR VINYL?

The first step in the care of your convertible top is to determine if your convertible top is made of fabric, also known as cloth, canvas or if the top is made of vinyl. The best way to determine this is to check with your automobile manufacture. Keep in mind, if you are not the original owner, the top could have been replaced with a top made from a different material. This could also have been done by the dealership when it was new so it is best to test your top if you are not absolutely sure of the material. Determining the type of convertible top is very important as you will need to make sure you use the correct cleaner and protectant for your specific convertible top. Using the wrong product can harm your convertible top.

FABRIC OR VINYL CONVERTIBLE TOP TEST

Take about 1/8 teaspoon of water and put it on your convertible top.

Try to rub the water in to the material.

If it starts to soak in, it is more than likely fabric, if it sits on the top and just smears but does not soak in, it is more than likely vinyl.

Another hint for determining if your convertible top is fabric or vinyl is that fabric tops tend to attract fuzzy things like lint, where the vinyl tops do not. If you are still unsure of what your convertible top is made of it is best to get the opinion of a professional.

CLEANING PRODUCTS FOR YOUR CONVERTIBLE TOP

Common household cleaning products can be very harmful to your soft convertible top. Chemicals you should not use on or near your convertible top include ammonia, bleach, detergent, alcohol and vinegar. Detergents, bleach and harsh acids will quickly deteriorate fabric or vinyl, whereas ammonia and alcohol will dry our fabric and cloud vinyl. Using the wrong cleaners can be a costly mistake. Use only products specifically made for cleaning your type of convertible top.

Keeping your convertible top clean is important. If your convertible top is not dirty, just rinse it thoroughly at least once a month with a strong jet of clear water. For fabric convertible tops you can also carefully use a vacuum to extract any loose dirt or dust that settle into the fabric fibers. If your convertible top is dirty use a convertible top cleaner followed by your convertible top protectant. We recommend cleaners specifically designed for convertible tops, as many car wash shampoos contain gloss-enhancers. If a car wash shampoo contains gloss enhancers, the top will absorb them and become a dust magnet.

HOW TO CLEAN YOUR CONVERTIBLE TOP

Fabric, Cloth or Canvas and Vinyl Convertible Top Cleaning:

Always wash convertible tops in the shade, never in direct sunlight.

Always wash the entire convertible top at one time, never spot clean as this will leave rings or spots.

Wet convertible top thoroughly and rinse off any loose dirt.

Spray Convertible Top Cleaner and apply evenly over entire roof then scrub lightly with soft bristle brush.

For difficult soiled areas, spray and let stand for 15 to 20 minutes.

Gently scrub with soft bristle brush.

Rinse thoroughly with water until no remaining foam from Convertible Top Cleaner is observed.

IMPORTANT: CONVERTIBLE TOP MUST BE THOROUGHLY DRY BEFORE USING YOUR CONVERTIBLE TOP PROTECTANT!

IMPORTANCE OF PROTECTING YOUR CONVERTIBLE TOP

Your car's soft convertible top is subjected to the same harsh environmental conditions as the painted surfaces of your car but your convertible top is not as durable as your painted surfaces. We all know that it is important to wax your paint to keep it protected from premature aging. The fabric/cloth or vinyl material that your convertible top is made from, although durable, is more delicate than the painted steel or fiberglass that the body of your car is made from. This is why it is vitally important to protect your convertible top and keep it protected as a part of your maintenance regimen. Unprotected convertible tops will deteriorate leaving them looking bad and even worse, they will start to leak! The worst nightmare of a convertible owner is a leaky convertible top!

IMPORTANT NOTE! About 99% of new convertible tops have stitching along the sides and around glass or plastic window is not treated when it leaves the factory! This is what holds your convertible top together so get it protected IMMEDIATELY!

HOW TO PROTECT YOUR FABRIC CONVERTIBLE TOP

Fabric, Cloth or Canvas Convertible Top Protection:

Start with a clean, completely dry convertible top.

If possible avoid applying protectant on windy days or pull your car inside the garage. Even a light breeze will cause more overspray and will also stir up dirt and dust that will be attracted to your convertible top before the protectant has a chance to dry.

Shake fabric convertible top protectant well before use and several times during application.

Hold can or bottle upright and spray evenly 16-18 inches from material and use a gentle sweeping motion. DO NOT SATURATE!

Allow to Completely Dry 10 minutes or longer between coats, preferably in the sun. Artificial heat can be used to speed drying time. Drying time may vary depending on weather conditions. Your convertible top MUST BE COMPLETELY DRY before applying the next coat of protectant.

Spray up to three light even coats of Fabric Convertible Top Protectant allowing protectant to completely dry between coats.

Use a clean microfiber towel to wipe off any excess overspray on paint, trim or glass.

Apply every 6-8 weeks for maximum UV protection and to protect against the harsh environmental elements.

For Vinyl Convertible Tops use a Vinyl Convertible Top Protectant

HOW TO PROTECT YOUR VINYL CONVERTIBLE TOP

Vinyl Convertible Top Protection:

Start with a clean dry convertible top.

If possible avoid applying protectant on windy days or pull your car inside the garage. Even a light breeze will cause more overspray and will also stir up dirt and dust that will be attracted to your convertible top until the protectant is dry.

Shake vinyl convertible top protectant and spray 8 -12 inches from convertible top.

Spray on using gentle sweeping motions or spray onto clean microfiber towel or applicator and wipe onto vinyl convertible top.

Wipe dry with a clean microfiber towel.

Use a clean microfiber towel to wipe off any excess overspray on paint, trim or glass.

Apply every 4-5 weeks for maximum UV protection and to protect against the harsh environmental elements.

For fabric convertible tops use a Fabric Convertible Top Protectant.

CONVERTIBLE TOP REAR WINDOW CARE

The rigid or flexible rear window on your convertible top is delicate and needs special care too. Many convertibles have flexible rear windows made of a clear vinyl allowing the window to fold. The rigid and flexible clear vinyl rear windows when not properly cared for will scratch, yellow and deteriorate.

It’s fun when your convertible top is down but when it is time to drive with the top up many convertible owners experience foggy windows. This is especially true for new cars. This fog is created by the evaporation of plasticizers which are used in the manufacturing of vinyl to keep it flexible. The plasticizers release through evaporation with the heat of the sun, causing your windows to fog up and turn yellowish if not protected.

CONVERTIBLE TOP REAR WINDOW CLEANING

To keep your convertible top windows crystal clear you need to keep them clean!

Always wash your car in the shade, never in direct sunlight.

Wash the outside of your window with a microfiber wash mitt and your car wash shampoo to remove loose dirt and debris during your normal car wash process.

Dry your entire car as well as your window with a microfiber drying towel.

Spray Plexus Plastic Cleaner, Polish and Protectant directly onto a clean, dry microfiber towel and use to polish and clean your window, inside and out.

Regular use of Plexus Plastic Cleaner, Polish and Protectant will prevent fogging, hazing, yellowing and oxidation which diminishes the plastic's luster, strength and appearance. Plexus Plastic Cleaner, Polish and Protectant also works great on your headlights, taillight lenses and gages.

CONVERTIBLE CAR TOP CARE SUMMARY

Follow this simple maintenance regimen and your convertible top will look good and perform well for years to come!

If your convertible top is not dirty, just rinse it thoroughly at least once a month with a strong jet of clear water. If your convertible top is dirty use a non-detergent-based convertible top cleaner followed by your convertible top protectant. We recommend a convertible top cleaner as many car wash shampoos contain gloss-enhancers. If the car wash shampoo contains gloss enhancers, the top will absorb them and become a dust magnet. For this reason we recommend using cleaners specifically designed for convertible tops.

We recommend a very soft bristle scrub brush for cleaning your convertible top. If you can rub the brush across the back of your hand without scratching your skin, it's safe to use on your convertible top.

Do not use a cloth, chenille-covered sponge or lamb's wool mitt on your convertible top, as they will leave lint.

Do not use your scrub brush on the vinyl window, it will scratch and decrease visibility.

Make sure you rinse the top thoroughly with a stiff stream of water to remove all of the dirt, grime and suds from your convertible top cleaner.

After washing, dry your convertible fabric or vinyl top use a Microfiber Drying Towel. The best method is to use the towel to blot up the water. Do not use a terry cloth towel or diaper to dry your convertible, as they will leave lint on fabric convertible tops. The Microfiber Drying Towels will also work well on your clear vinyl windows.

Keep your convertible top protected like you do your paint. For best results, protect your fabric, cloth or canvas convertible top at least 3-4 times per year and your vinyl convertible top as often as every 4-5 weeks.

Fabric, cloth or canvas convertible tops tend to attract lint, dust, pollen and other things that fly around the air and find home on your convertible top. This can look especially bad on a black convertible top! To keep your convertible top looking sharp, keep a lint roller handy and when your top is dry, just run the roller over the top. You will be surprised how this simple step will bring back that crisp new look.

We hope the information in this article helps you maintain your convertible top so you can get the full enjoyment of owning a convertible without the worries of a costly convertible top replacement.

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Buying a Used Car on the Internet – a New Breed of Shoppers

What about the used car market online? How can consumers quantify the risk they are taking buying a used car sight unseen to make sure it is justified by the savings of such purchase?


Historically, conventional used car buyers have been able to kick its tires, take it for a spin, and haggle over the asking price of the car they like at their local dealer since the invention of the automobile. Because of the internet, a considerable number of these “conventional” used car buyers have found a myriad of ways to harness the power of the ever expanding online automotive resources and tools available at their disposal to make informed buying decisions.

It is from those online savvy buyers that a new breed has emerged - those who buy their used cars online, sight unseen. Although they represent a relatively small portion of the used car buyers, these brave souls see an unmatched advantage and find ways to minimize the risks. But what’s in it for them, one might ask? Simple, actually: selection and price. The internet offers easy access to a vast selection of vehicles worldwide - online car portals, classifieds, conventional dealers with online presence and pure online-only outfits, online used car brokers, to name but a few. Since most of them are looking for a specific vehicle, their chance of finding “the one” is far greater online compared to the confines of their local area.

Needless to say, virtually all of them are looking for a bargain. Our brave souls take risks, but these are justified, at least in their eyes, because of the savings they realize by utilizing the online channel. How do they do it? They, too, are well-armed with the online tools they need to make intelligent buying decisions. Here is how these online tools help them through the decision-making and buying steps of the process.

Fair Market Value

Determining whether a particular car is a bargain is a function of understanding its fair market value given its condition in the context of the current supply and demand. For the non-economists, of course, there are a number of excellent online market valuation sources available. Kelley Blue Book, NADAGuides, Edmunds.com are some of the most widely used car pricing providers. They all base estimates on a large number of recorded transactions and provide appraisal adjustments for the year, make, model, mileage, options, condition and even local market trends. As their appraisal algorithms differ slightly from each other, the estimates may vary, so checking more than one source is recommended. There are three major price levels: trade-in (or wholesale), private party and retail. Trade-in is what one would expect to get from a dealer for one’s used car – it is the lowest of the three averages, but it’s important to know as a baseline. Private party is what one would expect to get if one sells a car to another person, and retail is what one would pay for that car at a used car dealership.

Third Party Vehicle History Reports

In addition to the seller’s honest word and availability of service records our prudent innovators tap into the same third party vehicle history report providers the rest of the used car buyers use. CARFAX and Experian’s AutoCheck, initially serving the automotive professionals only, have been available to the general public for a number of years now. For $24.99 CARFAX offers 30 days and AutoCheck offers 60 days of unlimited vehicle history reports. These provide extensive reporting on the vehicles’ recorded history: date and type of registration and renewal events, as well as checking for recorded incidents, odometer rollbacks, junk, salvage, rebuilt titles, insurance loss, theft, lemon buybacks, etc. Many dealers realize the convincing power of stating the recorded facts and now offer free vehicle history reports for the cars they sell.

Car Inspections

Independent vehicle appraisal/inspection services with online presence have also seen a boost in their business. For $99.95, CARCHEX offers to give any automobile a 155-point pre-purchase auto inspection almost anywhere in the USA. Not too high a price for peace of mind, especially if it can save one from having to deal with surprise repairs. For half of this amount, one can find a mechanic in the local directory who can check out the car and even take it for a test drive on one's behalf and then fax a detailed report. Nevertheless, some of the more thrifty buyers have found ways to save themselves the nominal fees mechanics charge without depriving themselves of the peace of mind of a pre-sale inspection. Say, I live in Boston and happened to find a 1974 BMW 2002tii that I really wanted all the way in San Diego. Now, I would definitely want the car inspected prior to buying it. My thrifty side, however, wants to avoid the $150 fee a local company would charge me to inspect the vehicle. The solution? I would ask a fellow member of the BMW enthusiast community who lives in San Diego to take a look at the car for me. There are plenty of BMW forum members that would be more than happy to offer their time and expertise to a fellow east coast bimmerphile in need.

Shipping

There is a sea of car shipping companies that would gladly bring our pioneers their newly acquired vehicles home at a reasonable price. One example, Dependable Auto Shippers operate a fleet of state-of-the-art, satellite tracked vehicle shipping transporters, which allow one to track one’s car while it's on its way much like one would track a package. Yet, a healthy number of this new breed of used cars buyers opt for driving their new purchase home on their own instead. It’s cheaper, it’s faster, and admittedly, it’s much more exciting. Sellers specializing in online sales of this kind have also adapted to accommodate the demands of this new kind of used car buyer. Airport pickups for our weary yet eager buyers are more or less industry standard, these days. Sellers specializing exclusively in online sales, providing a hot meal for their ‘guests’ at the family table before they depart on their voyage home, is not unheard of.

Although buying a used car online sight unseen is not for the faint of heart, it is a growing phenomenon, which if executed carefully, could be a very rewarding experience for all parties involved.


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Seller or Trader.... Which Are You?

Automobiles are one of the few things in life you can sell yourself or trade in when you decide to upgrade. After all, when was the last time your local appliance store gave you a few bucks for your old washing machine when you bought a new one?

So what's the best way to get rid of your old car? Should you sell it yourself or settle for a dealer trade-in? It depends on what your vehicle has to offer and the payoff you want.


"Trade-in is prepackaged food. It's not as good as homemade, but it is convenient," says Mark Perleberg, lead auto expert with NADAguides.com.

"Selling it yourself is like a home-cooked meal. It takes more effort."

That extra effort, however, can boost your profit.

The case for selling

Selling your old car takes more time and know-how, but you can potentially get more money than when trading it in.

That's because you cut out the middleman, the dealer who must spend money to advertise and spruce up your car before he resells it at a profit. The dealer considers those costs before arriving at the amount he'll give you for your old auto.

A dealer's cut of the profit is what prompts many car owners to opt for self-selling. But remember, you're then going to face many of the same issues that the car dealer would.

If your vehicle is older or in less-than-pristine shape, you'll probably have to get it detailed to make it attractive to buyers. You may even have to spend money on repairs.

You also have to consider your time investment in marketing the vehicle and showing it to prospective buyers, which would most likely be on weekends or evenings.

If you do decide to sell, realistically assess your auto's marketability. Charlie Vogelheim, former executive editor of the automobile price guide Kelley Blue Book, notes that selling a Toyota, a popular brand, is a lot easier than trying to market a Daewoo.

Location also comes into marketing play. A two-wheel drive sport utility vehicle might sell quickly in Florida, but will be shunned in harsher climes where four-wheel drive is a winter-driving necessity. Sales appeal can even extend to color. "White, silver and black are popular colors," Vogelheim says. "Purple is not."

When your car does sell, you'll have to orchestrate payment. No personal checks, please, but what about a cashier's check from the buyer? How about monthly payments?

"You have to decide what type of payment you'll accept, which adds to what some people might call the hassle part (of selling a car)," says Vogelheim.

Another hassle is the paperwork you'll need to complete to ensure that ownership is transferred correctly. Do you have the title? Do you know what your state requires when a car is sold to another consumer?

Benefits of Trading:

Sales Tax savings is one. The allowance you get for the Trade-In will come off of the selling price of the vehicle you are buying, in turn, reducing the Sales Tax amount.  Another is it's hassle-free. No phone calls and rearranging your schedule to meet people that don't show up.

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Auto Sales Rise in January 2010

DETROIT — Toyota's auto sales fell 16 percent in January, a month in which it recalled millions of vehicles and halted sales of several models. Most other automakers reported higher sales and looked for opportunities to snatch sales from the troubled Japanese automaker.


Automakers expected sales to improve over January 2009, when they dipped to a 26-year low due to the tough economy.

General Motors said its January sales rose 14 percent because of higher fleet and crossover vehicle sales. Crossovers are SUV-like in size but sit on a car instead of a truck frame. Ford Motor Co., meanwhile, saw sales rise 25 percent on higher fleet sales, while Nissan's rose 16 percent, thanks to higher demand for sedans like the Versa, Sentra and Maxima. Hyundai's sales rose 24 percent as sales of the newly redesigned Tucson sport utility vehicle doubled.

Chrysler fell 8 percent on declining sales of Ram trucks and Jeeps, while Honda's sales slipped 5 percent on weaker SUV and crossover demand.

Toyota said on Jan. 26 it would suspend sales of the Camry sedan, its top-selling vehicle, and seven other cars and trucks following a recall over sticky accelerator pedals that could cause sudden acceleration.

"There is no doubt that the stop sale, which was put in place last week, impacted our sales," said Bob Carter, Toyota's group vice president and general manager.

Car-buying Web site Edmunds.com predicted Toyota's U.S. market share would drop to 14.7 percent in January, its lowest level since March 2006.

Showing how quickly the newer, leaner GM can react, it offered zero percent financing and other incentives to Toyota drivers last week. Ford also offered incentives to Toyota drivers who trade in vehicles.

"This was an opportunity to help customers who are truly concerned about their personal safety," she said.

George Pipas, Ford's top sales analyst, said he did not see evidence that Ford was taking buyers from Toyota. Pipas said much of Ford's sales increase came from a jump in sales to rental car companies, governments and other large fleet buyers. Ford said fleet sales jumped more than 150 percent over January 2009, an indication that the credit crunch was lifting and businesses could spend on fleets again.


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Understand Used Car Salvage Titles

As you shop for a used car, you might come across the phrase “salvage title” in a used car advertisement. The price is going to seem right and you’re really going to want to buy it. Just make sure you act with your brain and not your heart. There are a lot of things to consider before you can understand used car salvage titles. 

We're not here to say used car salvage titles are automatically a bad idea, but make sure you know what you’re getting into before purchasing a used car with a salvage title.

Here are four things you absolutely have to do before even considering buying a vehicle with a salvage title:


•Understand What a Salvage Title Is


•Get a CarFax report

•Get a Qualified Inspection

•Weigh the savings vs. future costs
 
Understand What a Salvage Title Is


In almost all cases, salvage title is given to any vehicle that has sustained damage worth 75% or more of its value. For example, if you drive a 2002 Honda Civic worth $9415 and it suffers $7061 in damage in a collision, it’s going to be branded with a title stamped “salvage.” In other words, it’s not considered fit to drive. Some states also call this a junk title.

According to carfax.com, the following 11 states also use salvage titles to identify stolen vehicles: Arizona, Florida, Georgia, Illinois, Maryland, Minnesota, New Jersey, New Mexico, New York, Oklahoma, and Oregon.

As mentioned, requirements are going to vary by state. In Florida, a car has to be damaged to 80% of its value before the accident. Vehicles in Minnesota are considered salvaged when they are declared "repairable total loss" by an insurance company, were worth at least $5,000 before the damage or are less than six years old.

A $4,000 car cannot be deemed salvage in Minnesota, which is a bad thing. Buyer beware when buying older cars from this state (or states with similar requirements). It makes poorer people more susceptible to unsafe vehicles.

The Arizona Motor Vehicle Division sums it up well with this statement: “Needless to say, there is risk involved in buying a restored salvage vehicle. While many of the parts may be new, there will be some that are not, and even trained mechanics cannot always gauge the life expectancy of a vehicle. Further, the vehicle will be difficult to resell if you ever choose to, and very few, if any, dealers will take it as a trade-in.”

By the way, it’s considered fraud to sell a vehicle without disclosing that it once had a salvage or junk title. That’s why titles will be branded “resalvaged” or something similar to denote a vehicle that has been repaired from a salvage title.

Here’s an important tip when dealing with a resalvaged title. Make the seller demonstrate what work has been done. In most states, receipts for parts and repair work have to be submitted in order to get the resalvage title. You just can’t walk into the motor vehicles department and get the new title without proof.


Get a CarFax Report


Typically, CarFax reports aren’t the be all and end all, but I think you’ll find them useful when dealing with vehicles with salvage titles. They provide a great deal of information about a vehicle’s history if you know what you’re looking for.

The details section of the report is going to focus on two important areas:

• frame damage check

• airbag deployment check
 
Frame Damage Check: Cars with salvage titles have major problems. This is a warning that absolutely needs to be checked out. Your best bet is going to be an auto body repair facility. These mechanics have the best expertise for checking frame damage.
 
It’s important to have the frame check because it’s the basic skeleton of your car. Metal that has been straightened after a collision is permanently fatigued. That could lead to future weaknesses or problems. It’s just like a broken leg that has been set. That bone is going to give you trouble somewhere down the road.
 
Airbag Deployment Check: This is extremely important – not just because it indicates the car was in an accident and needs further inspection. You need to have your mechanic make sure the airbag was replaced. Unscrupulous body shops may not do the work.
 
Get a Qualified Inspection


As mentioned above with CarFax reports, you need to get a qualified inspection of any car with a salvage title. Actually, you’re going to need two: frame and mechanical.

Frame Inspection: The most important inspection is going to be the frame. Find an auto body shop with certified technicians to do this work. It’s worth the cost. These men and women have the most experience in fixing frame problems. They’re going to know the true condition of the used car’s frame.

Some folks recommend going to three auto body shops. I’m neutral on that idea because it is a major time investment and financial investment. I’d recommend three inspections on a vehicle worth more than $50,000. On less expensive vehicles, you begin to eat up your savings from buying a salvage-title vehicle.

Mechanical Inspection: This should be done for every used car regardless of its title. This will spot any potential long-term or short-term operating problems. The existence of a problem isn’t an automatic deal breaker. It’s just another factor in determining the vehicle’s value.

Weigh the Savings vs. Future Costs

Is it worth it to you to save $2000 on a car, if it’s going to cost you $3000 down the road in repairs? It might be if you’re capable of performing the repairs.

Also, are the savings worth it if you’re going to have trouble selling this car down the road? You may have difficulty finding savvy buyers who know salvage titles or resalvage titles aren’t always a deal killer.

The savings could also be worth it if you plan to run this car into the ground. If you’ve saved a good deal of money, you can always junk the vehicle when the time comes instead of repairing it.

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Is Your Check Engine Light On?

Have you ever noticed that when your Check Engine Light comes on, the car runs fine? There are no noises or signs of anything uncommon going on? Why? Becasue there isn't anything seriously wrong. It's more than likely a quick, easy, inexpensive fix that shouldn't cost you any more than a couple hundred dollars, at most.

Here's What To Do and What Not To Do.... and Why:

- First and foremost, DO NOT FREAK OUT! Why? Because you will end up spending hundreds and hundreds of dollars more than you should.

- After you DON'T freak out, check your gas cap. Why? Because a loose gas cap is a common reason for triggering a Check Engine Light. It sounds too simple and silly to be true, but guess what.... it's true. After filling up your tank, make sure the cap clicks at least 3 times before jumping back in your car. If this is what triggered the light, it will turn off once it's tightened.

- If that didn't fix the problem, go to an Advance Auto Parts, Discount Auto Parts, or NAPA store. Why? Because they ARE NOT mechanics. They sell parts, not fix or replace them. They will scan your car for free and they will be honest with you, unlike most mechanics (unfortunately). Their scanner will pull a "code" which will be translated into the actual problem (if there actually is a problem). In turn, they may try to sell you the part (more than likely a sensor or hose), but it's up to you whether or not you want to purchase the part yourself. Either way, you will know exactly what triggered the light to come on, so you will not be taken advantage of by a Service Shop or Repair Facility. You can save some money by purchasing the part at the Auto Parts Store and having a Service or Repair Facility install it. Believe it or not, it can actually be absolutely NOTHING AT ALL (you'll see what we mean later in this article). If this is the case, the Auto Parts store can reset the computer and the light will turn off.

- DO NOT go to AAMCO, or any other Franchise Service and Repair Facility for their FREE diagnosis of what triggered the light. Why? You know, as well as us, that nothing is FREE at these places. Well, the actual scan might be, but we will guarantee their estimate for repairs will exceed a couple hundred dollars, when in fact it should barely cost that much to fix.

- DO NOT go to the Manufacturer's Service Department. Why? Same as above, except they will not scan the car for free, they'll probably charge you an hour labor, when in fact it will take them all but 30 seconds to scan, and then hit you up for $400-$500 in unecessary repairs. You'll be surprised how many Manufacturer's set the cars computer to trigger that light at certain mileage intervals, in hopes you will freak out, run to them, and get charged hundreds and hundreds and hundreds of dollars for them to do absolutely NOTHING but reset the computer! The same thing that can be done at NAPA, Discount Auto Parts, or Advance Auto Parts stores for FREE!

That's it. It's that simple. Again, common reasons are a loose gas cap, or a $50-$150 sensor, or maybe a hose with a leak, or in fact nothing at all! So don't get all nervous and think your car is broken, because in fact it's not that serious of an issue.

One thing we do want to point out is if the Check Engine Light is flashing. If this happens, you actually do have some serious issues. In this case, get to a reputable Service and Repair Facility ASAP. Why? More times than none, a flashing Check Engine Light is in fact a direct engine or transmission issue.

- Tampa Bay Auto Network

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4 Tricks Credit Cards Play So You Pay More

Anyone who's been using credit cards for a period of time has likely noticed the creditor doesn't have the customer's best interests in mind. In fact, it's quite the opposite. Credit card companies look for sneaky ways to charge you more money, while you're stuck wondering what happened.

1. Universal Default

A universal default clause in your credit card agreement basically allow creditors to increase your interest rate for virtually any reason or no reason at all. Your rate might go up because you were late on another credit card payment, because you took on more debt, or any number of things the creditor thinks makes you risky. You can try asking for a lower interest rate, but the creditor may not oblige.

How to avoid the cost

Carry a credit card balance low enough for you to pay off at any time. That way, if your creditor decides to increase your rate, you can pay off the card before a finance charge hits.

2. Short Grace Period


A short grace period limits the amount of time you have to pay off new purchases and avoid a finance charge. The shorter your grace period, the less time you have to make your payment and the greater the chance the creditor can charge a finance charge on your balance.

How to avoid the cost

If your credit card has the option to access and pay your bill online, take advantage of it. Otherwise, be prepared to mail your payment as soon as you receive your billing statement.

3. Due Times


Some credit card companies put specific guidelines on on-time payments right down to the hour and minute. One minute late and you could be hit with a late fee, a higher interest rate, and a negative entry on your credit report. Not only that, your other creditors could also penalize you with an increased interest rate.

How to avoid the cost

Plan to send your payment a few days in advance of the due date. Use online bill pay to set up an automatic payment. Make the payment by phone, even if there’s an extra charge. If you have to snail mail your payment, don’t hesitate to mail it express it with priority mail or overnight service. Any extra charge you pay for express mail will be less than the late payment.

4. "Fixed" Interest Rates That Change


Your credit card agreement might specify a fixed interest rate, but that doesn't mean your rate won't change. It just means the creditor has to notify you before changing the rate. If your rate increases and you carry a balance from month to month, the amount you pay in finance charges will also increase.

How to avoid the cost

Pay your credit card balance in full each month to avoid paying a finance charge. Or, when your creditor notifies you of an interest rate increase, exercise your option to continue paying your balance under the current interest rate. The catch is you'll have to close the account, a move that could affect your credit score.

- Tampa Bay Auto Network

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Surviving a Credit Crunch

After the mortgage meltdown in mid-2007, lenders cracked down on home equity loans, causing consumers to turn credit cards as a lending source. Credit card debt and delinquencies rose. Credit card companies, feeling the brunt of delinquencies, began cracking down on credit, increasing interest rates and credit card fees, and decreasing credit limits.

What's a Credit Crunch?

A credit crunch is a period of time in which credit and loans are more difficult and costly to obtain.

There are individuals and companies who invest in debt. These investors make money when consumers pay back their credit card and loan balances. Investors don't make money when consumers don't pay back their debt.

When credit card and loan delinquencies rise, debt investments become unattrative, leading investors to pull their funding. As a result, banks become stricter with lending and consumers, especially those with credit problems, find it harder to get credit.

Here's what you can do to survive a credit crunch.

Keep Paying Your Credit Cards and Loans On Time.

Credit card companies have to make money to stay in business. When investors start pulling funding, credit card companies find ways to get more money from cardholders. Increased late fees and interest rates are one way of doing this. Because of universal default, your interest rate on a particular credit card could increase even if you're late on another credit card's payment.

According to Smart Money, banks could start sending accounts to collections sooner, if credit card delinquencies rise at a swift rate. 

Not only do timely payments save you money and keep you out of collections, it also keeps your credit score healthy. A good credit score indicates a trustworthy borrower - one that credit card companies aren't afraid to give credit to.

Keep Your Balances Low


Since credit card issuers are tightening credit, they may decrease your credit limit, leaving you at or above your limit. In ordinary times, your credit limit would only be lowered in response to some negative action on your part, like repeatedly going over your limit or missing credit card payments. In a credit crunch, credit card issuers will decrease your credit limit simply because of market conditions.

A lower credit limit can hurt your credit, making it seem like you've maxed out your credit cards, even though you may not have. Keeping a low balance will reduce the damage of a lowered credit limit. A zero balance will eliminate the damage all together.

Have An Emergency Fund

An emergency fund keeps you from having to resort to credit during an emergency. During a credit crunch, if you need credit and don't have it, you might have a card time getting it. If you already have a reserve of cash, you won't have to resort to credit at all. Ideally, you'd have an emergency fund anyway - credit crunch or not.

Take Steps To Improve Your Credit


Risky borrowers - those who are likely to become delinquent on their credit cards - are hurt most by a credit crunch. They pay higher finance charges and fees on their credit accounts. It's also harder for these consumers to get new credit.

Consumers can reduce the effects of a credit crunch by taking steps to improve their credit. Making timely payments on all bills, keeping credit card balances low, and limiting new applications for credit are all ways you can improve your credit.

Stay Smart With Your Credit Card Usage


Good credit goes a long way during a credit crunch. If you have good credit, keep it that way. Charge only what you can afford and pay your balance in full each month.

Be aware that creditors might decrease your credit limit, especially if they suspect you'll miss a payment. Pay attention to your credit card statements and other notices that come from your credit card companies to catch a lowered limit as soon as possible.

- Tampa Bay Auto Network
 
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Tips and Advice on Reading Used Car Vehicle Identification Numbers - VINs

The most important number in a used car is not its price or fuel economy rating. It is its Vehicle Identification Number or VIN, as it is more commonly known. Reading used car vehicle identification numbers will help you know if the used car or truck you are buying has the equipment you think it does.

How To Read a VIN

A VIN is basically a serial number for your car, truck or SUV. It is 17 characters long and is a mixture of numbers and letters. It has four parts:

• World Manufacturer's Identification (WMI - three numbers or letters)

• Vehicle Description Section (VDS - five numbers or letters)

• The VIN Accuracy Check Digit (one number)

• Vehicle Identification Section (VIS - eight numbers or letters)

The First Three Characters

These numbers and letters are the manufacturer identification and tell you where the vehicle was built.

The First Character tells you where the vehicle was built. The U.S. is 1 or 4, Canada is 2, and Mexico is 3. Australia, New Zealand and some South American countries are also represented by numbers. Some of the more common countries are: Japan (J), Italy (Z), Germany (W) and Great Britain (S).

The Second Character will tell you the manufacturer while the Third Character identifies the kind of vehicle or the company’s manufacturing division.

The 4th to 8th Characters

This is the vehicle description series. It identifies the body style, powerplant, brakes, and the restraint system. The problem is different companies put the information in different places. With GM, for example, the restraint info is in the 7th character position, while BMW has the code in its 8th character position. By the way, if you’re buying a Chevy Impala and the 7th digit is a “0” your airbags have been deleted.

The 9th Character

This is something called a check digit. It verifies the previous 8 characters based on a mathematical computation developed by the U.S. Department of Transportation.

The 10th Character

This represents the year the car was built. Cars built before 1980 don’t have VINs, which is why the system starts in 1980. You will also notice the system does not use every letter in the alphabet. I, O, Q, U, and Z are omitted. The system are repeats itself every 30 years probably assuming most people could tell the difference between a 1980 and 2010 model.

• A: 1980

• B: 1981

• C: 1982

• D: 1983

• E: 1984

• F: 1985

• G: 1986

• H: 1987

• J: 1988

• K: 1989

• L: 1990

• M: 1991

• N: 1992

• P: 1993

• R: 1994

• S: 1995

• T: 1996

• V: 1997

• W: 1998

• X: 1999

• Y: 2000

• 1: 2001

• 2: 2002

• 3: 2003

• 4: 2004

• 5: 2005

• 6: 2006

• 7: 2007

• 8: 2008

• 9: 2009

• A: 2010

• B: 2011

• C: 2012

• D: 2013

• E: 2014

• F: 2015

The 11th Character

This tells you the plant where your car was built. Frankly, when buying a used car, this should not be a huge concern. Quality problems will have demonstrated themselves long before your purchase.

The 12th through 17th Characters

These are what most of us call the serial numbers of the car. Each manufacturer has a different system for what this means.

In the end, the best bet for understanding various components of a used vehicle’s VIN, is to go to a search engine and type in Understanding BMW VIN. It will take you to various sites that will help you further decipher the VIN.


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Predicting What A Used Car Will Be Worth

Do you have your eye on a new car or truck that has just been introduced, but you know you can’t afford it new? Well, there is a simple formula for predicting what a used vehicle is going to be worth three years down the road.

The first fact to consider is almost all used cars, trucks, SUVs and crossovers lose a minimum of 24% of their value after 12 months. That’s based on the Manufacturer Suggested Retail Price.

To keep things simple, a used car costing $20,000 would be worth $15,200 after one year. So say the folks from Black Book (www.blackbookusa.com). It sounds like a dating sight, but it’s actually the number one resource for predicting a car’s residual value when it goes on sale. That’s extremely important for setting leasing rates.

Then, from the basic 24% drop in value, you can start deducting 6% a year. A decent used car, introduced with the price of $20,000, would have an estimated value breaking down this way:

•After 12 months: $15,200

•After 24 months: $14,288

•After 36 months: $13,430

•After 48 months: $12,624

Of course, this formula will not work 100% of the time because some cars and trucks have residual values that drop like stones after 12 months. Case in point would be the Chevy HHR.

• 2009 Chevrolet HHR LT - $20,729

• 2008 Chevrolet HHR LT - $11,225 dealer price, according to Edmunds.com.

That’s a drop of 46% in one year. Wait two years and you’re looking at a $10,551 vehicle. Proving pretty much if you want a Chevy HHR, buy a used one. You are going to save a ton of money.

Use this basic formula to help you get started on what the value of a used car should be. It will save you from spending too much on your next used car or it will help you put aside the right amount if you’re a good saver!


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How To Spot Car Scams On Craigslist

1 - Log on to Craigslist and look for a deal on a car. Some of the most successful Craigslist car scams involve used cars that are rare or "classics".

2 - Look for expensive cars listed for a price well below their market value. Scammers use very obvious deals to get potential victims interested in doing business with them.

3 - Respond to the ad. Get an immediate reply from the scammer telling you the reason why he is selling the car, even though the details are irrelevant. Scammers usually refer to an overseas move and difficulty in transferring the car into the new country.

4 - Note that that the scammer is only willing to give you a limited amount of information about his identity. In some cases, the scammer may give you more information than is needed, but the information will be fake or unverifiable.

5 - Refuse to close the transaction without seeing the car. The seller will try to convince you to use a supposedly secure escrow service to transfer and hold your money until the transaction has been completed. The escrow service will be associated with a company that you've never heard of or based in a foreign country. In some cases, the scammer will insist that you wire money.

6 - Understand that if you use the escrow service or wire money to the scammer the car will never be delivered and you'll lose your money.


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Are You a Distracted Driver?

Ever tried to eat a burger while driving? What about trying to separate your two fighting kids in the back seat? Ever reached down to pick up a CD that fell on the floor while driving? These are just a few of the most common driver distractions.

We all become more comfortable driving as the years progress, but unfortunately many of us become a little too confident. Your license to drive is not a license to drive while simultaneously putting on your makeup and shoving down a quick breakfast.

Let's take a look at some common driver distractions. Are you guilty of any of these?

• Cell Phones—Cell phone use in cars has been a hot topic ever since cell phones started becoming popular. We all know that talking on our phones can distract our attention from driving. We all know that we should use hands-free devices whenever possible (although these can still be a distraction, just like the distracting discussions topic above). Yet a large percentage of us still talk on our cell phones frequently while driving. Try to keep your cell phone use while driving limited to emergencies only. If you get a call you really want to take, pull over in a safe spot and have your conversation.

• Text Messaging—An even greater distraction than cell phones, text messaging while driving is becoming such a concern that many local and state governments are considering legislation that would make it illegal to text while driving (Washington state has already passed such legislation). Teenagers are especially prone to the dangers of texting while driving. If there is a teen driver with access to a cell phone in your household, talk to them about the dangers of texting while driving. Just as important, make sure you set an example for your teen by not texting while driving yourself.

• Outside Distractions—Whether it's a restaurant that just opened, a human billboard pointing the way to new homes, a beautiful rainbow or a bad accident, most of us just cannot resist the urge to take a peek, even when we should be concentrating on the road.

• Sicknesses—A sudden onset of sneezes, a bad cough and searching your car for a tissue to catch that runny nose are all examples of how being sick can distract you from driving. Not to mention the fact that most of us are not at our most alert when we are sick. That's why it is extra important to pay attention to the road and to wait until you are stopped at a traffic light to reach for that tissue. Of course, we can't predict sneezes, but make sure you quickly look back to the road after you sneeze.

• Inspector Gadget—Cars these days often have more controls than a small plane. Besides the obvious stereo and temperature controls, many cars have features such as navigation systems and televisions. CD players can be especially distracting, as it takes at least one hand off the steering wheel to pick out a CD and put it in the player, especially if your pack of CDs is on the ground and you have to reach for them…which brings us to…

• Reaching for the Unreachable—We are all guilty of this at one time or another. For some reason, we just HAVE to have that book in the back seat in our hands now. But this is one of the worst driver distractions, as it usually means that our hand or hands are off the wheel AND our eyes are off the road. Next time, try to make yourself wait to grab that errant CD until you are stopped at a traffic light. Or, if it's safe, pull over and grab whatever you need.

• Eating and Drinking—One of the most common driver distractions is eating and/or drinking while driving. These days, we all seem to be in a rush, and many of us try to scarf down our breakfast or lunch on our way to work. Some of the worst foods to eat while driving are coffee/tea (a hot spill on your leg will certainly distract you), messy hamburgers or sandwiches that drop stuff all over you while you are driving, anything fried that leaves you with greasy hands that could slip off the steering wheel, and, similarly, things like chocolate and jelly doughnuts that leave your hands sticky or slick. Try to avoid eating on the road whenever possible. If you are in a rush, grab a quick bite and eat it in the parking lot before leaving.

• Distracting Discussions—Ever gotten in a heated debate while driving? What about listening and intervening as your children in the backseat start arguing? Interaction with your passengers is another common driving distraction. This can especially be a problem for new drivers, who should focus all their attention on their driving and not on their passengers.

• Beautification—Again, you're running late. You forgot to put on your mascara/brush your hair/shave. What better place to do it than in the car, right? Wrong! Things that involve tools not only take your hands off the steering wheel and your eyes off the road, they also have the potential to inflict pain and cause further distraction. If you are applying eye makeup or shaving and you have to brake suddenly, think of the injuries that could ensue!

The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) states that distracted driving causes around 25 percent of the auto accidents in the U.S. each year. That's nearly 1.6 million accidents annually caused by many of the things we discussed above, most of which are so easily preventable. Try to avoid letting distractions take your attention away from what you should be doing, concentrating on driving and protecting the lives of you and your passengers.


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Silver is the Most Popular Car Color for Ninth Year in a Row

Silver is overwhelmingly the most popular car color worldwide for the ninth consecutive year, according to data released on October 2 by auto paint giant PPG Industries.

The color silver includes charcoal and gray shades, giving it a leg up on more clearly defined colors such as black, white and red.

The European auto palate prefers silver and charcoal 35 percent of the time, followed by black, 22 percent, and blue and white, at 13 percent each. Red, commonly associated with fast Italian sports cars, is actually as rare in Europe as Italian sports cars themselves, at just 8 percent.

The Asia/Pacific region was a near mirror of Europe's preferences at the top with silver and charcoal the most common color (34 percent), followed by black (21 percent), white (17 percent) and blue (9 percent).

In North America silver and charcoal was not so dominant but still victorious, at 25 percent, followed by white (18 percent), black (16 percent), red (12 percent) and blue (11 percent).

The auto industry today would not agree with carmaker Henry Ford, who famously said of his revolutionary Model T in 1909: "Any customer can have a car painted any color that he wants so long as it is black."

"Clearly, the automotive industry is moving toward more color choices," said Jane E. Harrington, PPG manager of color styling and automotive coatings. "Going forward, automotive manufacturers are going to be relying on color more and more to distinguish their brands."

The survey was released at this year's annual Automotive Colour Trend Show in Switzerland, where the Pittsburgh-based company revealed new color ideas such as Outer Space Blue, Champagne Silver and Hulk, the same shade of green as the famed comic book character.

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Buying A Used Car? Use This Checklist....

Buying a used car is a great way to stretch your dollar, but.... you'll want to follow this Checklist BEFORE you buy:

1. Be an educated consumer.

2. Determine what you want and need, make a list, and prioritize your items.

3. Establish a budget and determine the class of vehicles that fit it.

4. Narrow selection by makes and models and learn all you can about them.

5. Research dealerships and sellers.

6. Know the fair market value and vehicle history of any vehicle you're considering.

7. Obtain Vehicle Identification Numbers (VINs) and research cars online; obtain vehicle history reports.

8. Take test-drives and make sure to have cars checked by a mechanic.

9. ASK QUESTIONS, and consider all loan options.

10. If you feel hesitant, walk away. There's always another deal.

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Understanding Electronic Stability Control

In simple terms, stability control is a computer-managed system that is designed to help the driver maintain control of a vehicle during sudden maneuvers. The technology is considered an “active” safety system because it is designed to help the driver avoid an accident. Sudden braking, throttle or steering inputs when traveling on slick surfaces, or during emergency avoidance maneuvers, can put a vehicle in an unstable state which can potentially result in a spin-out. Without stability control, the vehicle could be nearly impossible to keep on the road. With stability control, however, the driver will feel the loss of control only momentarily.

When sensors and software identify a loss of control, within fractions of a second the system will automatically begin to regulate the brakes and throttle in an attempt to bring the vehicle back under control. Throughout the process, the driver only needs to steer the car toward its intended direction of travel as the system will remain working until the person behind the wheel has complete control once again. However, stability control is not fail safe. If the car is violently heading off course, the driver is traveling at a high rate of speed, or the surface is particularly slick, stability control might not correct the situation. It can, however, work to mitigate whatever damage might occur from a loss of control even if it cannot fully correct the skid.

Technically speaking, stability control is a computer-controlled system that regulates hydraulic and mechanical components on the vehicle using sensors shared with the anti-lock braking system (ABS) and traction control system (TCS). With a typical stability control system, the ABS and TCS sensors monitor the speed of each wheel. Additional sensors monitor the vehicle speed, steering wheel angles, and yaw (how the car turns on its vertical axis). During normal driving, all of the sensors report vehicle data to a high-speed microcomputer. By comparing the steering wheel angle to the vehicle readings, the microcomputer is able to determine if the driver has the vehicle under control, or has entered an unstable situation (a skid or uncontrolled slide, for example). 

If the stability control system determines the vehicle is experiencing a potential loss of direction, it immediately attempts to correct the problem by controlling the throttle and braking in an attempt to bring the vehicle under control (it does not control the steering wheel). In operation, the stability control system is far more capable than any driver. Not only does it respond faster, but it is able to control each wheel independently—a feat that is impossible from behind the steering wheel.

As an active safety feature, stability control helps the driver avoid an accident. In an emergency, even the most experienced drivers may find themselves in a situation where they are driving outside the normal limits of their vehicle and a loss of control is imminent. Black ice on the highway, a deer bolting across a dark road, an evasive maneuver to avoid another driver: these are all scenarios where a loss of control would be likely. A stability control system can recognize the potential of the situation, even before the driver can take evasive action, and take corrective action to possibly prevent a serious accident.

Stability control shares its technology with anti-lock brakes and traction control so it is often bundled in an option package including all three. While it is not yet required by law on passenger vehicles, stability control is an integral part of any comprehensive active safety package and is a worthwhile option that can prevent accidents and save lives.

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Is Your Car On Thieves' List?

As we all know, there are many factors that influence our auto insurance costs, including the cars that we drive, the places we live, and our genders, ages and driving records. When it comes to the car we drive, a major consideration for insurers is whether that car is frequently stolen. If your car is on the list of most stolen vehicles, most insurance companies will charge you a higher rate to insure it.

Non-profit organizations such as the National Insurance Crime Bureau (NICB) track the most stolen vehicles in America by tallying all cars that are reported stolen by law enforcement agencies each year. The NICB's most current top 25 list of most stolen vehicles nationwide is as follows:

1. Toyota Camry

2. Honda Accord

3. Honda Civic

4. Chevrolet Full Size C/K Pickup

5. Ford Full Size Pickup (150/250/350)

6. Jeep Cherokee/Grand Cherokee

7. Oldsmobile Cutlass/Supreme/Ciera

8. Dodge Caravan/Grand Caravan

9. Ford Taurus

10. Toyota Corolla

11. Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth Neon

12. Nissan Sentra

13. Chevrolet Caprice

14. Ford Explorer

15. Chevrolet Cavalier

16. Chevrolet Compact SUV (Blazer)

17. Plymouth Voyager/Grand Voyager

18. Toyota Pickup

19. Pontiac Grand Am

20. Ford Escort

21. Acura Integra

22. Dodge Ram Pickup

23. Nissan Maxima

24. Ford Mustang

25. Buick LeSabre

Even if your car is high on this list – You CAN protect it!

There are a number of measures you can take to help safeguard your car from being stolen, even from the most experienced thief. The NICB recommends the following “layers of protection;” saying the more layers of protection on your vehicle, the more difficult it is to steal. Think about it, can you imagine what you would do without your car for even a week, let alone longer? Don’t let these professional thieves profit on the car you count on to get you to all the places you need to go.

Layer #1 – Common Sense

An unlocked vehicle with a key in the ignition is an open invitation to any thief, regardless of which anti-theft device you use. The common sense approach to protection is the simplest and most cost-effective way to thwart would-be thieves.

Secure your vehicle even if parking for brief periods. You should always:

•Remove your keys from the ignition

•Lock your doors/close your windows

•Park in a well-lit area

Layer #2 – Warning Device

The second layer of protection is a visible or audible device which alerts thieves that your vehicle is protected.

Popular second layer devices include:

•Audible alarms

•Steering column collars

•Steering wheel/Brake pedal lock

•Brake locks

•Wheel locks

•Tire locks/Tire deflators

•Theft deterrent decals

•Identification markers in or on vehicle

•Window etching

•Laminated glass

Layer #3 – Immobilizing Device

The third layer of protection is a device which prevents thieves from bypassing your ignition and hot-wiring the vehicle.

Some electronic devices have computer chips in ignition keys. Other devices inhibit the flow of electricity or fuel to the engine until a hidden switch or button is activated.

Popular third layer devices include:

•Smart keys

•Fuse cut-offs

•Kill switches

•Starter, ignition and fuel disablers

Layer # 4 – Tracking Device

The final layer of protection is a tracking device which emits a signal to a police or monitoring station when the vehicle is reported stolen. Tracking devices are very effective in helping authorities recover stolen vehicles.

Passive and Active Anti-Theft Systems.

Passive and active anti-theft devices are the two options available when considering an anti-theft system. Passive devices automatically arm themselves when the vehicle is turned off, the ignition key removed, or a door is shut. No additional action is required. Active devices require some independent physical action before they are set, such as pushing a button, or placing a "lock" over a vehicle component part. This physical action must be repeated every time the anti-theft device is set or it will not function.

We can’t predict the future, but we can help safeguard the cars that we count on. Add a layer to your vehicle protection today!

Data is from the National Insurance Crime Bureau (NICB); and list is based on the February 26, 2004 release of comprehensive 2002 vehicle data. Visit www.nicb.org for more information.


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What a DUI Will Do To Your Auto Insurance Rates

As if the cost of a life and emotional devastation isn't enough to serve as a deterrent for not drinking and driving, few drivers realize the financial impact they will endure if convicted of operating a motor vehicle while under the influence (DUI). Unfortunately, even the most "regular" people continue to take the calculated risk of driving after a few drinks with delusions of sobriety. If you're a driver who tends to gamble in this situation, are you prepared to cough-up $10,828 in total costs?

DUI's Impact on Car Insurance

All emotions aside: a DUI dramatically increases the degree of risk an insurance company assumes in order to underwrite your car insurance policy. After a DUI, you will be categorized as a high risk driver and can expect your current premiums to double-if your carrier doesn't just simply non-renew your policy.

MADD (Mothers Against Drunk Driving) reports that the average first time DUI offender can expect his/her car insurance rates to range between $3,600 and $6,600 a year. Depending on how long a DUI remains on your state's driving record, these rates are known to continue for up to 7 years. Furthermore, any additional accidents and tickets (past or future) can easily make the situation exponentially more difficult-tripled insurance costs!

Additional Costs of a DUI

Unless you live in a major city, there really is no substitute to driving. From the perspective of life's real world priorities, being able to drive ranks just below air, water, food, and shelter. Salvaging this privilege after a DUI though involves more than just expensive car insurance rates. Depending on the state you live in, additional costs can include:

•Towing: $300 - $1,200

•Bail: $250 - $2,500

•Fines and Court Fees : $500 - $2,500

•Attorney Fees (average): $2,500

•Mandatory Education and Treatment: $350 - $2,000

•Electronic Home Monitoring: $150 - $2,250

•Ignition Lock: $730 - $2,800

What the above estimates fail to account for the number of hours it takes to satisfy all the corresponding obligations. Time spent in court, at classes and treatment, restitution services, and even jail time can turn a person's world upside-down. Interestingly, states like Washington make matters more complicated by automatically suspending driving privileges for 90 days upon the first offence. Think of how you would even get to court?

Furthermore, since a DUI is criminal offence, your driving record will be complemented by a criminal record. If your vocation values the integrity of such a mark (medical, transportation, finance, etc.) finding a new job can become as complicated as finding affordable car insurance.

Affordable Car Insurance After a DUI?

Although a DUI is a mistake that ravishes a person's finances, it is possible to bounce back after a conviction. Every day that passes after your DUI conviction can lower your rates, because older charges have less of an impact on your risk profile, especially if you were a teenager or young adult at the time of your conviction. More so than any other driver, you should shop around for lower rates. Although you won't have as many options, don't fall into the trap of signing on with the first company that approves your application. Conduct research, compare quotes, and make a careful decision. In the meantime, take a conservative approach to driving and don't get any tickets or become involved in accidents.

Unfortunately, organizations like MADD exist because people continue to take the risk of driving under the influence. Nearly 17,000 people died in DUI related car accidents in 2005 alone. If this doesn't deter you, then maybe the $10,828 total out-of-pocket expenses for a first-time offender will.

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Tips - Shopping for a Used Car Online

With so much content and information available online today, the Internet is making it easier than ever for prospective buyers to shop for a used vehicle. The following tips may be helpful for shoppers in the market for a used vehicle and may help improve satisfaction with their used-vehicle purchase experience.


1. Visit a variety of Web sites. With an abundance of information available online for used-vehicle shoppers, it’s helpful to know where to find what you’re looking for. Independent sites are good places to find intuitive search tools that match shoppers with the right vehicle for their needs, as well as pricing and reliability information. Dealerships often maintain sites that provide their current vehicle inventories, while many manufacturer sites allow shoppers to search for certified pre-owned vehicles in their area.

2. Search for comparative used-vehicle pricing. The development of Web sites such as Kelley Blue Book (kbb.com), N.A.D.A. (nada.com), AutoTrader.com and Edmunds.com have made searching for used-vehicle pricing information easy. Using these sites to compare prices will give shoppers a general idea of their desired vehicle’s price range without leaving the comfort of their homes. Note: kbb.com is an Official Value Guide for the West Coast.  The Official Value Guide for the East Coast is nada.com .

3. Consider online classified ads. Online classified ads sites such as AutoTrader.com and cars.com are a competitive and convenient tool to give shoppers more options when considering a used vehicle. These sites allow sellers to post used-vehicle listings along with several pictures that can be viewed easily by shoppers, based on their preferred zip code.


4. Purchase or ask for a Vehicle History Report. Vehicle History Reports (VHRs) are an inexpensive way to check the track record of any used vehicle. More than 33% of automotive Internet users receive a free vehicle history report from the seller. If your dealer or private seller does not offer a VHR, be weary of the vehicle. Before you spend the money on the VHR yourself, contact us, we have an unlimited Carfax Subscription and we'll pull the Report for you free of charge.

5. Search for financing and compare interest rates online. When shoppers have financing arranged ahead of time, it often gives them greater negotiating power when dealing with the seller.



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What Impacts Auto Insurance Costs?

We all know that there are many factors that can affect your auto insurance costs. Some of the more obvious determinants are:


•Gender and Age. Young male drivers are typically the most expensive to insure, especially if they have any type of mark on their driver's record.

•Driving Record. Tickets, accidents, being caught driving while under the influence of drugs or alcohol…they all add up and translate into higher auto insurance costs.

•Miscellaneous Discounts. If you are a good student, if you have safety features installed on your car, if you have low mileage on your car, if you are a senior, if you are in the military…all of these can mean discounts on your auto insurance costs. But, did you know that where you live and what you drive may also impact your auto insurance costs?

Location, Location, Location

It's a fact, auto insurance rates in rural communities are almost always lower than those in large urban centers. Accidents tend to happen much more frequently in big cities, usually due to the high amount of cars on the road (AKA: Traffic!)

Certain states have higher insurance rates than others due to the percentage of claims filed. States like New Jersey, Washington D.C., New York and Massachusetts typically have the highest average insurance rates.

It can also cost more to settle claims in certain areas, and this can add to the cost of your insurance premiums. Expensive cars cost more to repair or replace, and wealthy urban communities will sometimes have higher average insurance rates.

Pick a Low-Profile, Safe Vehicle

How your vehicle holds up in a crash is also important to auto insurance companies. Think about it, the more a vehicle costs to repair after a crash, the more auto insurance companies will have to pay out. If there are certain vehicles that tend to be involved in more accidents, tend to incur more damage and involve more bodily harm to passengers when in those accidents, it is safe to assume those vehicles will cost more to insure. Vehicles such as sports cars and some SUVs tend to rate lower in terms of crashworthiness, and therefore carry higher insurance rates.

Another important factor is whether or not your vehicle is on the list of those most frequently targeted for theft. Non-profit organizations such as the National Insurance Crime Bureau (NICB) and the Highway Loss Data Institute (HLDI) track the most commonly stolen vehicles. The NICB lists tend to track all vehicles on the road (often meaning the most popular cars are those most commonly stolen), while the HLDI tracks results based on the number of insured vehicles on the road (meaning those with higher theft claims top the list). The NICB lists the five most commonly stolen vehicles in the U.S. in 2001 as the Toyota Camry, the Honda Accord, the Honda Civic, the Oldsmobile Cutlass/Supreme/Ciera and the Jeep Cherokee/Grand Cherokee. The HLDI list the five vehicles with the highest theft claim frequencies in 2001 as the Acura Integra, the Jeep Wrangler, the Jeep Cherokee 4WD, the Honda Prelude and the Mitsubishi Mirage.

Basically, all these cars will most likely be more expensive to insure. Make sure you check out the insurance costs of a particular vehicle before purchasing it.

If your car is stolen, make sure to contact the police right away. Have information such as the year, make and model of your vehicle, your license plate number, the VIN (vehicle identification number), where the theft occurred and what time of the day. Next, you should inform your insurance company that the car was stolen. The more quickly you do this, the more quickly they can get started on processing your claim.

Conclusion


Along with the obvious factors about you, the person to be insured, other factors about your vehicle type and where you live are likely to affect your auto insurance costs. Make sure to compare quotes before purchasing an insurance plan, and find one that best suits you, your vehicle, and your locale.


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