Showing posts with label cars. Show all posts
Showing posts with label cars. Show all posts
Saturday, November 14, 2015
FAQ: Is This An Auction Car?
Is this an Auction Car? This is a question we are asked day in and day out. It's not that we mind being asked the question, but sometimes our answer catches people by surprise.
In a perfect world, there would be a Used Car Factory that we can order any car we want, in any color combo, with all the options, and in perfect condition. Unfortunately, it's not a perfect world.
It's no secret that millions and millions and millions of Pre-Owned Cars are sold at Auctions every year. It's the main source for Franchise and Independent Dealers, across the Globe, to get their Inventory.
We are realistic, so we understand that most people do not understand this. We don't expect them to, as we do not understand other professions, but when we answer a question honestly, we certainly do not expect to be looked at like we're lying. Whether you want to believe the truth or not, there really is no reason to lie.
Yes, the majority of our vehicles are 'Auction Cars'. Without them, we would have close to no cars to sell, and you would have close to no cars to choose from. Believe it or not, we actually prefer auction cars, because we are offered a Guarantee that the car you're about to buy is free and clear of any Title, Engine, Transmission, Odometer, or Frame discrepancy's, and any single repair that may exceed $500. Not every Dealer elects this option, because like most things in life, this Guarantee is not free, but it saves us from getting involved with vehicles that have serious issues.
So, if someone tells you that ALL auction cars are junk and have issues, the person who told you that has no clue what they're talking about. Again, millions and millions and millions of good cars are sold at auctions every single year. Are there cars there that do have issues? Of course there are, but you have to weed through them and find the good ones, because there are PLENTY of good cars sold at auctions.
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Have a great day!
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Saturday, July 14, 2012
Five Overpriced Fuel Efficient Used Cars
Avoid Overpriced Prius, Yaris, Cruze, Corolla and Soul
There are five fuel-efficient used cars you might want to put the brakes on purchasing because their prices are predicted to drop.
KBB.com, according to an article at AutoRemarketing.com, has advised dealers that these five specific fuel-efficient models that could be in line for a significant price correction. The reason is softening fuel prices.
The models that made the KBB list are the 2010 Toyota Prius, 2011 Toyota Yaris, 2011 Chevrolet Cruze, 2011 Toyota Corolla and 2011 Kia Soul. The instant advice to take away from this new is in two month's time there are going to be some good bargains on these models as dealers become desperate to move these vehicles off their lots.
Why is that? It's expensive to finance unsold vehicles for a long time. No savvy buyer in his or her right mind is going to pay a dealership what it needs to make a profit on a used car listed above.
Their loss is your gain. That's a little cold hearted to say, because I want the used car industry to thrive, especially at the independent dealer level. However, there's nothing wrong with taking advantages of changing scenarios and that is what will happen with used car dealerships that bought high. They're going to have to sell low.
As has been reported elsewhere, the bloom is off the rose, so to speak, because Americans have horrific short-term memory. Once gas prices start to drop they become less concerned with fuel economy and more concerned with comfort. That's why less fuel-efficient SUVs and crossover utility vehicles are starting to see their sales increase.
KBB's senior market analyst for automotive insights, Alec Gutierrez, told AutoRemarketing.com that his company believes there will be "steep declines" for vehicles that increased in value significantly since the beginning of 2012. Expect the most adjustment in used vehicles selling near the cost of a new car.
The prime example, according to the article, is the 2010 Toyota Prius. Its value, in the last four months has increased $3,000. Used cars just don't increase in value during normal times. They decrease in value.
According to KBB.com figures, as of May 16, the 2010 Toyota Prius has a current auction value equal to 90 percent of its original price. A two-year old vehicle at this point should be worth, at best, 75 percent of its original value.
Buy Low, not High
Let's say, for argument's sake, that a 2010 Toyota Prius was worth $26,000 brand new. At 90% of its value, it's now worth $23,400. It should be more realistically price at $19,500 and below. By that simple estimation, the 2010 Toyota Prius is overvalued right now by almost $4000.
I'm not necessarily a fan of not buying a particular model because it is going to depreciate quickly because most people hold onto used cars beyond their effective depreciation life cycles. (After five years, cars only really depreciate by small amounts annually.)
The 2010 Toyota Prius, if bought right now, is going to fall off a cliff when it comes to depreciation. As KBB has warned dealers, its prices are going to adjust and soon. In a typical scenario, a good used car retains about 50% of its value after five years. That means a 2010 Toyota Prius is going to be worth about $13,000 in three years.
But, let's say you just paid the obscenely high price of $23,000 for one. In three years time, it could have lost $10,000 of its value. That's a huge number if you are financing payments.
It's also a huge concern for insurance reasons. Say, for example, something horrible happens to your 2010 Toyota Prius and it is deemed a total loss after a collision. In three years time, on a five-year loan, you would still have a substantial chunk of money left to pay but a car that is worth a lot less.
Here is what you can do as a smart consumer if you want to buy one of those cars. Instantly assume they are overvalued. Ask the Dealer how long has this car been sitting on your lot?
An honest dealer will tell you. A less scrupulous one may want to mask that fact to avoid looking desperate. (Never let the customer see you sweat!) However, you can sometimes determine from reading a Carfax Report when the dealership acquired the vehicle. If it was an Auction vehicle, it will be listed as being sold at auction in the title history.
Has the car been on the lot more than 60 days? There's no reason to pay what the dealer wants. If you have your financing arranged ahead of time, go in with an offer 10% below the asking price. The dealer might just cave to your wishes and, with your financing already arranged, might get you an even better interest rate.
Keep your eyes on used 2010 Toyota Prius, 2011 Toyota Yaris, 2011 Chevrolet Cruze, 2011 Toyota Corolla and 2011 Kia Soul models. They're priced high now but should be dropping soon. By the way, all are good cars. The Yaris may be yawn inducing but it's still a good car.
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Saturday, May 26, 2012
10 Things Your Mechanic Won't Tell You
1. “You might be in the wrong garage.”
There are many choices as to where consumers can take their car when it’s in need of maintenance or repair. Those include going to the car dealer, a department or chain-store franchise, or an independent mechanic at a service station. Where you should go depends on what type of repair your car needs and its age and condition. But in most cases, mechanics in each type of repair shop may try to convince you that they’re the best ones for the job.
Work under factory warranty should go to the dealer, says Mark Eskeldson, founder of CarInfo.com, which provides consumer-protection advice to car buyers and owners. That’s where you’ll find some of the best-trained mechanics who are trained to fix problems that pop up with new car models, he says.
But because dealer overhead is high, expect to pay top dollar for repairs not covered under your warranty.
Before leaving your car at an independent automotive shop (or any repair facility) find out if the mechanic working on your car is ASE Certified ( or factory certified) on the component or system that needs fixing. Don't let some junior mechanic work on your car that is not certified or qualified on that particular repair area. He could do more harm than good.
Chain and department-store shops often advertise free services for routine services like oil changes or tune-ups, but beware if their mechanic insists that your car needs major repairs after he inspects it. Get a second opinion to confirm it isn’t a ploy to get you to spend more money, he says.
2. “My fancy certificates might not mean very much.”
The National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence (ASE) certifies auto technicians (or mechanics) in eight specialties, including brakes, electrical systems, engines, and heating and air-conditioning, ect... Although auto mechanics must have two years of hands-on work experience and pass an extensive standardized exam to become certified, an ASE sticker in your repair shop’s window is no guarantee that the work will be done properly or that all of the technicians employed are all ASE certified, or if they are Certified in the repair are you need says Tony Molla, a spokesman for ASE.
Most repair shops hire both certified and uncertified mechanics. And only 33% of ASE mechanics are certified in all eight specialties and earn “Master Technician” status. Be sure to ask who is going to do the work on your car and what areas that person is certified in. Also check to see when the certification expires. ASE-certified mechanics are supposed to recertify every five years.
In addition, you may look for repair shops that are endorsed by AAA with work being guaranteed for a minimum of 12 months or 12,000 miles. These facilities must meet rigorous standards and guarantee their work for all customers, says Robert Sinclair, a spokesman for AAA New York. Also, AAA agrees to arbitrate disputes between its members and approved repair shops.
3. “I make unnecessary repairs.”
You drop off your car at a mechanic’s shop for routine maintenance or a repair only to find out that the mechanic made additional repairs that you didn’t request but that he deemed “necessary.”
Recommendations for unnecessary maintenance are a common complaint among consumers, says Sherry Mehl, the chief of the Bureau of Automotive Repair (BAR) in California. (The bureau works to protect consumers within the automotive repair marketplace.) For instance, shops can suggest flushing a radiator or fluids, which can harm some cars, she says. (Car owners’ manuals specify if flushing will help.)
Consumer complaints about auto parts and repairs are on the rise, according to the Federal Trade Commission. For 2009, the FTC has 2,689 complaints, up from 2,438 in 2008 and 1,698 in 2007. It was dishonest practices that cost Santa Ana-based EZ Lube $5 million in a civil settlement for unfair business practices in December 2007. An investigation by the Orange County district attorney’s office “uncovered a pattern of unfair and deceptive business practices at several EZ Lube locations where consumers were being sold unneeded parts and services,” according to the DA’s statement. As part of the settlement, EZ Lube agreed to pay restitution to anyone with a legitimate claim over the past five years. (When reached for comment, a spokesperson for EZ Lube referred us to a company’s press release on the matter, which reads: “It is our goal to make sure all of our customers are protected by the highest safeguards in the industry when they bring their vehicle to one of our stores.”)
“Most unnecessary repairs are due to the fact that cars are so incredibly complex that often a shop ends up trying a few things in order to solve the problem,” says Jack Gillis, author of "The Car Book" and director of public affairs for the Consumer Federation of America, a consumer-advocacy organization. When a repair baffles a mediocre mechanic, he or she will probably keep replacing suspect parts until the problem is finally solved. Many of the parts replaced may have nothing to do with the problem, but you’ll probably end up paying for them anyway, he says.
4. “You might be charged for work that hasn’t been done.”
It happens on purpose. It happens by mistake. Either way, it happens. Let’s say you drop your car off at the garage to have the fluids, belts and filters replaced. But the garage is busy, the mechanic who works on your car is a new hire, and the station manager hasn’t left very clear instructions. As a result, the belts never get replaced, but you drive away thinking you’ve got brand-new ones. When Gillis worked at the Department of Transportation in the 1980s, he says it was one of the most common complaints, and that it remains so today.
A good way to avoid the problem of work that was supposed to have been done but wasn’t: Ask to see the old parts. In some cases, mechanics can give you the parts they’ve removed from your car. (One exception is if the warranty requires they be sent back to the manufacturer.) “If you have a concern that a part was replaced when it shouldn’t have been, you should ask for it back,” says Mehl. (Rules vary by state; in California, for example, mechanics can give parts to customers.) California residents can contact BAR, and it’ll send a representative to examine the customer’s invoice and the part. “If it’s not faulty, we can take disciplinary action,” she says.
In addition, Gillis suggests taping to your steering wheel an itemized list of all the repairs you want made. That way the mechanic who works on it — in most cases not the person you talked to when you drove in — will have direct instructions from you.
5. “You should get a second opinion.”
Getting a second opinion is a must for major repairs, since it’s a competitive business and prices can be all over the map. You may have to pay a few dollars more for an extra estimate, but the hundreds you could potentially save by shopping carefully will more than make up for it.
When exactly is it time to seek out a second opinion? A general rule of thumb is that you should get more than one mechanic’s take on a repair if you expect to pay more than $200 for it, says Gillis. If your mechanic calls in the middle of a job with a laundry list of additional repairs, that’s also a good time to seek another opinion of the problem and an estimate for the cost of fixing it. Beware of the mechanic who tries to stop you by saying that he’s already taken apart the engine or the transmission. If you were able to drive the car into the shop, you should be able to drive it back out for a second opinion.
6. “Rebuilt parts can be as good as new — and less expensive.”
When it comes time to replace a part on your car, you can save money by buying it used. But often you must specify that you want a remanufactured part or the mechanic will likely install an expensive new one.
However, recycled parts aren’t right for every replacement. “Customers may save some money, but buying a recycled part isn’t so simple,” says Chuck Sulkala, executive director of the National Auto Body Council and owner of a Boston-based car body shop. “You need to make sure it provides exactly what you’re looking for and what you need.” For example, a customer who needs to replace a car’s fender and gets a salvaged one could find that its moldings or side lights are different, he says, even if the fender comes from the same car model that’s just two or three years older. Sulkala says: “You can use it, but what good is the molding going to do if it’s in the wrong location?”
7. “Your car is too high-tech for me."
Cars have become incredibly sophisticated over the past 10 years, but some mechanics haven’t caught up. Car dealers are required by most manufacturers to buy the expensive diagnostic equipment needed to pinpoint the source of computer problems. That means their technicians are more likely to be factory-trained in these complicated repairs.
Still, not all mechanics are properly trained in the computerized systems found in most cars today, says Gillis. That could be because independent car mechanics have to bear most of the costs when upgrading their technology. Independent car technicians must make the same investment in sophisticated diagnostic equipment if they expect to be able to diagnose and repair these complex cars, says Molla.
If you drive an expensive European car, consider checking out specialty shops that focus on one or two foreign makes. Mechanics at these outfits are often as well or better trained than those at the dealer and they usually charge less. Meanwhile, most Japanese and Korean models are serviceable by independent repair shops, says Molla.
8. “I may send your car somewhere else for repairs — which will cost you.”
Let’s say you’re taking your car in for several repairs at once — replacing the battery and headlamps, changing the oil, and repairing the fuel-injection system. Some independent shop may not have the facilities or expertise to do them all in-house, and if so, it may pay another shop to do all or part of the work. This kind of auto-repair outsourcing can add significantly to the final price tag on the job, since your mechanic will have to charge a premium for the work he subbed out.
“If I have to carry all of the equipment in order to fix everything on a vehicle, it would make no sense,” says Sulkala, especially if he doesn't do that type of work on a daily basis. For example, he’s not asked to upholster cars often, so when a customer requests that he says, “I’ll bring it someone I know and trust who has that expertise.” As a result, the customer might incur additional costs. But, he adds, the price charged is at a discounted wholesale rate and not at a retail door rate.
When you take your car in for repairs, ask if all the work will be done on-site before you agree to anything. If your mechanic tells you he needs to subcontract some of it, tell him not to do those repairs and take the car yourself to a shop that can handle the rest of the job.
9. “The less you know about your warranty, the happier I am.”
Confusion about your warranty is good for a repair shop. After all, it’s not in an independent mechanic’s best interest to tell you when a repair is under warranty because if he’s mum, he can charge you for it. Dealerships, meanwhile, make little money on warranty repairs, so they look to get as much non-warranty work as possible.
The way dealership warranties often work is that if you get the car repaired somewhere else and something goes wrong as a result of that repair, the cost of fixing the problem will no longer be covered by the warranty. So say you get an oil change at a quick-service franchise shop and the mechanic does something wrong that eventually damages your engine; the dealer doesn’t have to honor your warranty when your engine is finally repaired, says Gillis. But some dealers like to take it a step further by making it seem as if you have to bring your car to them for all repairs or risk losing your warranty protection.
Don’t fall for it. Taking routine work such as oil changes, tire rotations, and even your 10,000-mile checkups to the less-expensive chains won’t jeopardize your warranty in most cases. Nor will emergency repairs that would normally be covered under the warranty. Just be sure to keep all your receipts, says Gillis. That way, if the dealer tries to claim you have an engine problem because you failed to get an oil change, for example, you can prove otherwise.
10. “You have more power here than you think.”
If you feel you’ve been wronged by an auto mechanic, you can take action. File a complaint with your state’s Better Business Bureau and the attorney general’s office. This will help unsuspecting consumers who check on the reputations of potential car mechanics to avoid shoddy repairmen.
In some states, you have even more recourse; in California, BAR will attempt to resolve each complaint it receives. To check if your state has a similar agency, contact your state highway department. Finally, if your auto-repair garage is endorsed by the AAA, contact the organization. If your complaint is egregious enough, or joined by others, the outfit may lose the AAA’s seal of approval. “This is an exceedingly rare event,” says Sinclair. “Shops work hard to obtain and retain their AAA certification and would bend over backwards to correct any problems that may lead to a loss of AAA’s ‘seal of approval’.”
WEBSITE: http://www.tampabayautonetwork.com/
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/TmpAutoNtwrk
YOU TUBE: http://www.youtube.com/user/TampaBayAutoNetwork
There are many choices as to where consumers can take their car when it’s in need of maintenance or repair. Those include going to the car dealer, a department or chain-store franchise, or an independent mechanic at a service station. Where you should go depends on what type of repair your car needs and its age and condition. But in most cases, mechanics in each type of repair shop may try to convince you that they’re the best ones for the job.
Work under factory warranty should go to the dealer, says Mark Eskeldson, founder of CarInfo.com, which provides consumer-protection advice to car buyers and owners. That’s where you’ll find some of the best-trained mechanics who are trained to fix problems that pop up with new car models, he says.
But because dealer overhead is high, expect to pay top dollar for repairs not covered under your warranty.
Before leaving your car at an independent automotive shop (or any repair facility) find out if the mechanic working on your car is ASE Certified ( or factory certified) on the component or system that needs fixing. Don't let some junior mechanic work on your car that is not certified or qualified on that particular repair area. He could do more harm than good.
Chain and department-store shops often advertise free services for routine services like oil changes or tune-ups, but beware if their mechanic insists that your car needs major repairs after he inspects it. Get a second opinion to confirm it isn’t a ploy to get you to spend more money, he says.
2. “My fancy certificates might not mean very much.”
The National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence (ASE) certifies auto technicians (or mechanics) in eight specialties, including brakes, electrical systems, engines, and heating and air-conditioning, ect... Although auto mechanics must have two years of hands-on work experience and pass an extensive standardized exam to become certified, an ASE sticker in your repair shop’s window is no guarantee that the work will be done properly or that all of the technicians employed are all ASE certified, or if they are Certified in the repair are you need says Tony Molla, a spokesman for ASE.
Most repair shops hire both certified and uncertified mechanics. And only 33% of ASE mechanics are certified in all eight specialties and earn “Master Technician” status. Be sure to ask who is going to do the work on your car and what areas that person is certified in. Also check to see when the certification expires. ASE-certified mechanics are supposed to recertify every five years.
In addition, you may look for repair shops that are endorsed by AAA with work being guaranteed for a minimum of 12 months or 12,000 miles. These facilities must meet rigorous standards and guarantee their work for all customers, says Robert Sinclair, a spokesman for AAA New York. Also, AAA agrees to arbitrate disputes between its members and approved repair shops.
3. “I make unnecessary repairs.”
You drop off your car at a mechanic’s shop for routine maintenance or a repair only to find out that the mechanic made additional repairs that you didn’t request but that he deemed “necessary.”
Recommendations for unnecessary maintenance are a common complaint among consumers, says Sherry Mehl, the chief of the Bureau of Automotive Repair (BAR) in California. (The bureau works to protect consumers within the automotive repair marketplace.) For instance, shops can suggest flushing a radiator or fluids, which can harm some cars, she says. (Car owners’ manuals specify if flushing will help.)
Consumer complaints about auto parts and repairs are on the rise, according to the Federal Trade Commission. For 2009, the FTC has 2,689 complaints, up from 2,438 in 2008 and 1,698 in 2007. It was dishonest practices that cost Santa Ana-based EZ Lube $5 million in a civil settlement for unfair business practices in December 2007. An investigation by the Orange County district attorney’s office “uncovered a pattern of unfair and deceptive business practices at several EZ Lube locations where consumers were being sold unneeded parts and services,” according to the DA’s statement. As part of the settlement, EZ Lube agreed to pay restitution to anyone with a legitimate claim over the past five years. (When reached for comment, a spokesperson for EZ Lube referred us to a company’s press release on the matter, which reads: “It is our goal to make sure all of our customers are protected by the highest safeguards in the industry when they bring their vehicle to one of our stores.”)
“Most unnecessary repairs are due to the fact that cars are so incredibly complex that often a shop ends up trying a few things in order to solve the problem,” says Jack Gillis, author of "The Car Book" and director of public affairs for the Consumer Federation of America, a consumer-advocacy organization. When a repair baffles a mediocre mechanic, he or she will probably keep replacing suspect parts until the problem is finally solved. Many of the parts replaced may have nothing to do with the problem, but you’ll probably end up paying for them anyway, he says.
4. “You might be charged for work that hasn’t been done.”
It happens on purpose. It happens by mistake. Either way, it happens. Let’s say you drop your car off at the garage to have the fluids, belts and filters replaced. But the garage is busy, the mechanic who works on your car is a new hire, and the station manager hasn’t left very clear instructions. As a result, the belts never get replaced, but you drive away thinking you’ve got brand-new ones. When Gillis worked at the Department of Transportation in the 1980s, he says it was one of the most common complaints, and that it remains so today.
A good way to avoid the problem of work that was supposed to have been done but wasn’t: Ask to see the old parts. In some cases, mechanics can give you the parts they’ve removed from your car. (One exception is if the warranty requires they be sent back to the manufacturer.) “If you have a concern that a part was replaced when it shouldn’t have been, you should ask for it back,” says Mehl. (Rules vary by state; in California, for example, mechanics can give parts to customers.) California residents can contact BAR, and it’ll send a representative to examine the customer’s invoice and the part. “If it’s not faulty, we can take disciplinary action,” she says.
In addition, Gillis suggests taping to your steering wheel an itemized list of all the repairs you want made. That way the mechanic who works on it — in most cases not the person you talked to when you drove in — will have direct instructions from you.
5. “You should get a second opinion.”
Getting a second opinion is a must for major repairs, since it’s a competitive business and prices can be all over the map. You may have to pay a few dollars more for an extra estimate, but the hundreds you could potentially save by shopping carefully will more than make up for it.
When exactly is it time to seek out a second opinion? A general rule of thumb is that you should get more than one mechanic’s take on a repair if you expect to pay more than $200 for it, says Gillis. If your mechanic calls in the middle of a job with a laundry list of additional repairs, that’s also a good time to seek another opinion of the problem and an estimate for the cost of fixing it. Beware of the mechanic who tries to stop you by saying that he’s already taken apart the engine or the transmission. If you were able to drive the car into the shop, you should be able to drive it back out for a second opinion.
6. “Rebuilt parts can be as good as new — and less expensive.”
When it comes time to replace a part on your car, you can save money by buying it used. But often you must specify that you want a remanufactured part or the mechanic will likely install an expensive new one.
However, recycled parts aren’t right for every replacement. “Customers may save some money, but buying a recycled part isn’t so simple,” says Chuck Sulkala, executive director of the National Auto Body Council and owner of a Boston-based car body shop. “You need to make sure it provides exactly what you’re looking for and what you need.” For example, a customer who needs to replace a car’s fender and gets a salvaged one could find that its moldings or side lights are different, he says, even if the fender comes from the same car model that’s just two or three years older. Sulkala says: “You can use it, but what good is the molding going to do if it’s in the wrong location?”
7. “Your car is too high-tech for me."
Cars have become incredibly sophisticated over the past 10 years, but some mechanics haven’t caught up. Car dealers are required by most manufacturers to buy the expensive diagnostic equipment needed to pinpoint the source of computer problems. That means their technicians are more likely to be factory-trained in these complicated repairs.
Still, not all mechanics are properly trained in the computerized systems found in most cars today, says Gillis. That could be because independent car mechanics have to bear most of the costs when upgrading their technology. Independent car technicians must make the same investment in sophisticated diagnostic equipment if they expect to be able to diagnose and repair these complex cars, says Molla.
If you drive an expensive European car, consider checking out specialty shops that focus on one or two foreign makes. Mechanics at these outfits are often as well or better trained than those at the dealer and they usually charge less. Meanwhile, most Japanese and Korean models are serviceable by independent repair shops, says Molla.
8. “I may send your car somewhere else for repairs — which will cost you.”
Let’s say you’re taking your car in for several repairs at once — replacing the battery and headlamps, changing the oil, and repairing the fuel-injection system. Some independent shop may not have the facilities or expertise to do them all in-house, and if so, it may pay another shop to do all or part of the work. This kind of auto-repair outsourcing can add significantly to the final price tag on the job, since your mechanic will have to charge a premium for the work he subbed out.
“If I have to carry all of the equipment in order to fix everything on a vehicle, it would make no sense,” says Sulkala, especially if he doesn't do that type of work on a daily basis. For example, he’s not asked to upholster cars often, so when a customer requests that he says, “I’ll bring it someone I know and trust who has that expertise.” As a result, the customer might incur additional costs. But, he adds, the price charged is at a discounted wholesale rate and not at a retail door rate.
When you take your car in for repairs, ask if all the work will be done on-site before you agree to anything. If your mechanic tells you he needs to subcontract some of it, tell him not to do those repairs and take the car yourself to a shop that can handle the rest of the job.
9. “The less you know about your warranty, the happier I am.”
Confusion about your warranty is good for a repair shop. After all, it’s not in an independent mechanic’s best interest to tell you when a repair is under warranty because if he’s mum, he can charge you for it. Dealerships, meanwhile, make little money on warranty repairs, so they look to get as much non-warranty work as possible.
The way dealership warranties often work is that if you get the car repaired somewhere else and something goes wrong as a result of that repair, the cost of fixing the problem will no longer be covered by the warranty. So say you get an oil change at a quick-service franchise shop and the mechanic does something wrong that eventually damages your engine; the dealer doesn’t have to honor your warranty when your engine is finally repaired, says Gillis. But some dealers like to take it a step further by making it seem as if you have to bring your car to them for all repairs or risk losing your warranty protection.
Don’t fall for it. Taking routine work such as oil changes, tire rotations, and even your 10,000-mile checkups to the less-expensive chains won’t jeopardize your warranty in most cases. Nor will emergency repairs that would normally be covered under the warranty. Just be sure to keep all your receipts, says Gillis. That way, if the dealer tries to claim you have an engine problem because you failed to get an oil change, for example, you can prove otherwise.
10. “You have more power here than you think.”
If you feel you’ve been wronged by an auto mechanic, you can take action. File a complaint with your state’s Better Business Bureau and the attorney general’s office. This will help unsuspecting consumers who check on the reputations of potential car mechanics to avoid shoddy repairmen.
In some states, you have even more recourse; in California, BAR will attempt to resolve each complaint it receives. To check if your state has a similar agency, contact your state highway department. Finally, if your auto-repair garage is endorsed by the AAA, contact the organization. If your complaint is egregious enough, or joined by others, the outfit may lose the AAA’s seal of approval. “This is an exceedingly rare event,” says Sinclair. “Shops work hard to obtain and retain their AAA certification and would bend over backwards to correct any problems that may lead to a loss of AAA’s ‘seal of approval’.”
WEBSITE: http://www.tampabayautonetwork.com/
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/TmpAutoNtwrk
YOU TUBE: http://www.youtube.com/user/TampaBayAutoNetwork
Monday, August 22, 2011
5 Things That Will Hurt a Used Car's Resale Value
Not being prepared when it comes time to sell your used car will hurt its resale value. There are five things you can do that could earn you hundreds of additional dollars on the price of a used car you are selling.
1. Not Keeping a Used Car's Maintenance Records
You should really keep every maintenance record from the first time you buy a new car. The same is true if you have bought a used car. Keep all the maintenance records for it from the time of purchase. Savvy used car buyers are going to know when you bought your car based on a purchase of its vehicle history from either Carfax or Auto Check. Not being able to produce maintenance records could indicate you don't maintain your used car, which is going to lower its value.
2. Any Sign of Children When You Are Selling It
It's true - most people associate children with messy vehicles. It's almost impossible to keep them clean whether it's because of misplaced toys that melt or food and drink spills. Get your car professionally detailed before selling it if you have a family. Kids are great, but most folks don't want to own a used car where children have lived.
3. Selling a Used Car with a Mechanical Defect
There's a legal axiom that a lawyer never asks a question in court without knowing the answer ahead of time. Yet, people will sell their used cars without knowing its true mechanical condition. There are a couple of options here. The first would be buying a CarMD. You're going to want one as you look for used cars. Start off by using it on your own used car. It will give you a report on potential problems. Don't be surprised if prospective owners show up with one. The second thing you can do is have your used car inspected. A certified mechanic will come to your home and inspect your car and tell you what's wrong with it. You can then decide if you want to get the work done, but at least you will know what problems your used car might have.
4. Customizing Your Used Car
Let's say, for example, you own a Dodge Neon. You've invested a lot of money into it for a huge spoiler as well as large wheels, a souped exhaust system and a special suspension. You then go to sell it and find an extremely small market for the car. "But," you sputter, "it's in perfect shape. Why aren't people buying it?" You've created a niche vehicle. And, within that niche of people who might buy it, you've narrowed things even further to people who want to buy a car customized exactly how you like it. It's difficult to sell these types of vehicles if you are in a hurry. Strip the car as much as possible when you are selling it back to its original parts if you have them.
5. Posting Videos Involving Your Used Car
Here's something most used car sellers don't realize: smart shoppers will Google your name and car make and model just to see what pops up. So, your buddy videotaped you racing another friend in an industrial park. That's going to show up on a search engine. Same thing is true if you were driving the car and arrested by the police. A DWI article will include your name, as well as the type of vehicle you were driving when stopped.
WEBSITE: http://www.tampabayautonetwork.com/
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/TmpAutoNtwrk
YOU TUBE: http://www.youtube.com/user/TampaBayAutoNetwork
1. Not Keeping a Used Car's Maintenance Records
You should really keep every maintenance record from the first time you buy a new car. The same is true if you have bought a used car. Keep all the maintenance records for it from the time of purchase. Savvy used car buyers are going to know when you bought your car based on a purchase of its vehicle history from either Carfax or Auto Check. Not being able to produce maintenance records could indicate you don't maintain your used car, which is going to lower its value.
2. Any Sign of Children When You Are Selling It
It's true - most people associate children with messy vehicles. It's almost impossible to keep them clean whether it's because of misplaced toys that melt or food and drink spills. Get your car professionally detailed before selling it if you have a family. Kids are great, but most folks don't want to own a used car where children have lived.
3. Selling a Used Car with a Mechanical Defect
There's a legal axiom that a lawyer never asks a question in court without knowing the answer ahead of time. Yet, people will sell their used cars without knowing its true mechanical condition. There are a couple of options here. The first would be buying a CarMD. You're going to want one as you look for used cars. Start off by using it on your own used car. It will give you a report on potential problems. Don't be surprised if prospective owners show up with one. The second thing you can do is have your used car inspected. A certified mechanic will come to your home and inspect your car and tell you what's wrong with it. You can then decide if you want to get the work done, but at least you will know what problems your used car might have.
4. Customizing Your Used Car
Let's say, for example, you own a Dodge Neon. You've invested a lot of money into it for a huge spoiler as well as large wheels, a souped exhaust system and a special suspension. You then go to sell it and find an extremely small market for the car. "But," you sputter, "it's in perfect shape. Why aren't people buying it?" You've created a niche vehicle. And, within that niche of people who might buy it, you've narrowed things even further to people who want to buy a car customized exactly how you like it. It's difficult to sell these types of vehicles if you are in a hurry. Strip the car as much as possible when you are selling it back to its original parts if you have them.
5. Posting Videos Involving Your Used Car
Here's something most used car sellers don't realize: smart shoppers will Google your name and car make and model just to see what pops up. So, your buddy videotaped you racing another friend in an industrial park. That's going to show up on a search engine. Same thing is true if you were driving the car and arrested by the police. A DWI article will include your name, as well as the type of vehicle you were driving when stopped.
WEBSITE: http://www.tampabayautonetwork.com/
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/TmpAutoNtwrk
YOU TUBE: http://www.youtube.com/user/TampaBayAutoNetwork
Saturday, August 6, 2011
Top 10 Most Stolen Used Vehicles for 2010
Here's an interesting article we wanted to share, written by Keith Griffin from About.com . Who would have thought?
"Here's something to keep in mind when used car shopping: the most stolen vehicles in 2010 were all used cars.
That should make some of you say, "Well, duh. Brand new cars are only stolen off new car dealer lots. Otherwise all stolen vehicles are used cars."
I know but what's interesting about the report on most stolen vehicles in 2010 from the National Insurance Crime Bureau is how used some of these vehicles are. The youngest on the list of most stolen vehicles is seven years old. The oldest is 20 years old.
Without further ado, here is the list of the most stolen vehicles for 2010:
1.1994 Honda Accord
2.1995 Honda Civic
3.1991 Toyota Camry
4.1999 Chevrolet Pickup (Full Size)
5.1997 Ford F150 Series/Pickup
6.2004 Dodge Ram
7.2000 Dodge Caravan
8.1994 Acura Integra
9.2002 Ford Explorer
10.1999 Ford Taurus
I actually owned a 1995 Honda Civic for a few years. I'm glad it escaped the notice of car thieves where I live in Connecticut. That would have really bummed me out.
This is the first time since 2002 that domestics dominate the list. For those who track such things, three of the vehicles are pickups, five are sedans, one is a minivan and one is an SUV. Surprised the figure isn't higher on SUVs seeing as gas prices were lower in 2010.
As the NICB points out, older used cars are popular with thieves for their parts, which is why they get chopped up and not taken for joy rides. They're also easier to steal because modern cars have more devices to defeat thieves but no used car is truly invincible, especially when being stolen for parts.
The NCIB has lots of information about stolen vehicles. Head on over to its website if you are curious."
WEBSITE: http://www.tampabayautonetwork.com/
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/TmpAutoNtwrk
YOU TUBE: http://www.youtube.com/user/TampaBayAutoNetwork
"Here's something to keep in mind when used car shopping: the most stolen vehicles in 2010 were all used cars.
That should make some of you say, "Well, duh. Brand new cars are only stolen off new car dealer lots. Otherwise all stolen vehicles are used cars."
I know but what's interesting about the report on most stolen vehicles in 2010 from the National Insurance Crime Bureau is how used some of these vehicles are. The youngest on the list of most stolen vehicles is seven years old. The oldest is 20 years old.
Without further ado, here is the list of the most stolen vehicles for 2010:
1.1994 Honda Accord
2.1995 Honda Civic
3.1991 Toyota Camry
4.1999 Chevrolet Pickup (Full Size)
5.1997 Ford F150 Series/Pickup
6.2004 Dodge Ram
7.2000 Dodge Caravan
8.1994 Acura Integra
9.2002 Ford Explorer
10.1999 Ford Taurus
I actually owned a 1995 Honda Civic for a few years. I'm glad it escaped the notice of car thieves where I live in Connecticut. That would have really bummed me out.
This is the first time since 2002 that domestics dominate the list. For those who track such things, three of the vehicles are pickups, five are sedans, one is a minivan and one is an SUV. Surprised the figure isn't higher on SUVs seeing as gas prices were lower in 2010.
As the NICB points out, older used cars are popular with thieves for their parts, which is why they get chopped up and not taken for joy rides. They're also easier to steal because modern cars have more devices to defeat thieves but no used car is truly invincible, especially when being stolen for parts.
The NCIB has lots of information about stolen vehicles. Head on over to its website if you are curious."
WEBSITE: http://www.tampabayautonetwork.com/
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/TmpAutoNtwrk
YOU TUBE: http://www.youtube.com/user/TampaBayAutoNetwork
Sunday, May 9, 2010
4 Ugly Cars Only Their Mothers Could Love
This is an article, written by Tom Ripley for 'Driving Today', that brings back memories!
"For reasons known only to God and the executive committees that approved them, ugly cars exist in nature. And in spite of their often ungainly and grotesque countenances, somebody loves them. So let’s celebrate that unconditional love by taking a closer look at the pantheon of cars only their mother could love.
Ugly Car No. 1: AMC Pacer
Sure, this is the go-to ugly car, but it is the go-to because it was so ugly. Looking something like an upside-down cereal bowl balancing on toothpicks, the Pacer’s body was way too big for its undersized tires. To that, you can add positively enormous side glass, windshield and backlight, allowing you a very good look at the idiot who bought it. Inside, the over-long six-cylinder engine intrudes into the passenger compartment because when AMC designed it, they thought it would be equipped with a more compact, rotary engine.
Ugly Car No. 2: Renault Fuego
Some of the most beautiful classics of the ’30s came from French design studios, but by the early 1980s (and some would say well before), the French had lost their touch. The Fuego was a weak attempt at a sports coupe, kind of a limp-wristed Mustang saddled with a tiny engine and a lackluster profile. And as with so many ugly cars, the closer you look at it, the worse it gets. Details like the undersized tires and black body stripe did nothing but add to the overall malaise. Inside, the Fuego was an ergonomic disaster.
Ugly Car No. 3: Yugo GV
Malcolm Bricklin’s attempt to use geopolitical realities to bring a price leader to the U.S. market failed largely because the car -- Yugo GV (for great value) -- was one of the worst vehicles ever foisted on the American public. In this car, as your mother once told you, ugly is as ugly does. The 1.1-liter engine that claimed to offer 58 horsepower was feeble, and the drivetrain had so much slop in it that if you accelerated, the car pulled to the left, and if you let off the accelerator, the car pulled to the right. Fit-and-finish inside and out were in the “you’ve got to be kidding” category.
Ugly Car No. 4: Pontiac Aztek
When you see a Pontiac Aztek on the road -- something that is still possible though unfortunate -- you have to wonder how a group of sighted auto executives approved the vehicle’s design. Some cars have hidden flaws, but the Aztek hides nothing. It is flawed everywhere: awkward profile, ungainly front and rear ends, plus loose, flapping-in-the-breeze trim. From the driver’s seat, the Aztek wasn’t nearly as bad as from the outside, but that’s like getting comfortable in the belly of a whale. The mundane 3.4-liter V-6 offered just 185 horsepower, not sufficient to get the Aztek out of our sight nearly quick enough."
WEBSITE: http://www.tampabayautonetwork.com/
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/TmpAutoNtwrk
YOU TUBE: http://www.youtube.com/user/TampaBayAutoNetwork
"For reasons known only to God and the executive committees that approved them, ugly cars exist in nature. And in spite of their often ungainly and grotesque countenances, somebody loves them. So let’s celebrate that unconditional love by taking a closer look at the pantheon of cars only their mother could love.
Ugly Car No. 1: AMC Pacer
Sure, this is the go-to ugly car, but it is the go-to because it was so ugly. Looking something like an upside-down cereal bowl balancing on toothpicks, the Pacer’s body was way too big for its undersized tires. To that, you can add positively enormous side glass, windshield and backlight, allowing you a very good look at the idiot who bought it. Inside, the over-long six-cylinder engine intrudes into the passenger compartment because when AMC designed it, they thought it would be equipped with a more compact, rotary engine.
Ugly Car No. 2: Renault Fuego
Some of the most beautiful classics of the ’30s came from French design studios, but by the early 1980s (and some would say well before), the French had lost their touch. The Fuego was a weak attempt at a sports coupe, kind of a limp-wristed Mustang saddled with a tiny engine and a lackluster profile. And as with so many ugly cars, the closer you look at it, the worse it gets. Details like the undersized tires and black body stripe did nothing but add to the overall malaise. Inside, the Fuego was an ergonomic disaster.
Ugly Car No. 3: Yugo GV
Malcolm Bricklin’s attempt to use geopolitical realities to bring a price leader to the U.S. market failed largely because the car -- Yugo GV (for great value) -- was one of the worst vehicles ever foisted on the American public. In this car, as your mother once told you, ugly is as ugly does. The 1.1-liter engine that claimed to offer 58 horsepower was feeble, and the drivetrain had so much slop in it that if you accelerated, the car pulled to the left, and if you let off the accelerator, the car pulled to the right. Fit-and-finish inside and out were in the “you’ve got to be kidding” category.
Ugly Car No. 4: Pontiac Aztek
When you see a Pontiac Aztek on the road -- something that is still possible though unfortunate -- you have to wonder how a group of sighted auto executives approved the vehicle’s design. Some cars have hidden flaws, but the Aztek hides nothing. It is flawed everywhere: awkward profile, ungainly front and rear ends, plus loose, flapping-in-the-breeze trim. From the driver’s seat, the Aztek wasn’t nearly as bad as from the outside, but that’s like getting comfortable in the belly of a whale. The mundane 3.4-liter V-6 offered just 185 horsepower, not sufficient to get the Aztek out of our sight nearly quick enough."
WEBSITE: http://www.tampabayautonetwork.com/
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/TmpAutoNtwrk
YOU TUBE: http://www.youtube.com/user/TampaBayAutoNetwork
Tuesday, March 9, 2010
Buying a Used Car on the Internet – a New Breed of Shoppers
What about the used car market online? How can consumers quantify the risk they are taking buying a used car sight unseen to make sure it is justified by the savings of such purchase?
Historically, conventional used car buyers have been able to kick its tires, take it for a spin, and haggle over the asking price of the car they like at their local dealer since the invention of the automobile. Because of the internet, a considerable number of these “conventional” used car buyers have found a myriad of ways to harness the power of the ever expanding online automotive resources and tools available at their disposal to make informed buying decisions.
It is from those online savvy buyers that a new breed has emerged - those who buy their used cars online, sight unseen. Although they represent a relatively small portion of the used car buyers, these brave souls see an unmatched advantage and find ways to minimize the risks. But what’s in it for them, one might ask? Simple, actually: selection and price. The internet offers easy access to a vast selection of vehicles worldwide - online car portals, classifieds, conventional dealers with online presence and pure online-only outfits, online used car brokers, to name but a few. Since most of them are looking for a specific vehicle, their chance of finding “the one” is far greater online compared to the confines of their local area.
Needless to say, virtually all of them are looking for a bargain. Our brave souls take risks, but these are justified, at least in their eyes, because of the savings they realize by utilizing the online channel. How do they do it? They, too, are well-armed with the online tools they need to make intelligent buying decisions. Here is how these online tools help them through the decision-making and buying steps of the process.
Fair Market Value
Determining whether a particular car is a bargain is a function of understanding its fair market value given its condition in the context of the current supply and demand. For the non-economists, of course, there are a number of excellent online market valuation sources available. Kelley Blue Book, NADAGuides, Edmunds.com are some of the most widely used car pricing providers. They all base estimates on a large number of recorded transactions and provide appraisal adjustments for the year, make, model, mileage, options, condition and even local market trends. As their appraisal algorithms differ slightly from each other, the estimates may vary, so checking more than one source is recommended. There are three major price levels: trade-in (or wholesale), private party and retail. Trade-in is what one would expect to get from a dealer for one’s used car – it is the lowest of the three averages, but it’s important to know as a baseline. Private party is what one would expect to get if one sells a car to another person, and retail is what one would pay for that car at a used car dealership.
Third Party Vehicle History Reports
In addition to the seller’s honest word and availability of service records our prudent innovators tap into the same third party vehicle history report providers the rest of the used car buyers use. CARFAX and Experian’s AutoCheck, initially serving the automotive professionals only, have been available to the general public for a number of years now. For $24.99 CARFAX offers 30 days and AutoCheck offers 60 days of unlimited vehicle history reports. These provide extensive reporting on the vehicles’ recorded history: date and type of registration and renewal events, as well as checking for recorded incidents, odometer rollbacks, junk, salvage, rebuilt titles, insurance loss, theft, lemon buybacks, etc. Many dealers realize the convincing power of stating the recorded facts and now offer free vehicle history reports for the cars they sell.
Car Inspections
Independent vehicle appraisal/inspection services with online presence have also seen a boost in their business. For $99.95, CARCHEX offers to give any automobile a 155-point pre-purchase auto inspection almost anywhere in the USA. Not too high a price for peace of mind, especially if it can save one from having to deal with surprise repairs. For half of this amount, one can find a mechanic in the local directory who can check out the car and even take it for a test drive on one's behalf and then fax a detailed report. Nevertheless, some of the more thrifty buyers have found ways to save themselves the nominal fees mechanics charge without depriving themselves of the peace of mind of a pre-sale inspection. Say, I live in Boston and happened to find a 1974 BMW 2002tii that I really wanted all the way in San Diego. Now, I would definitely want the car inspected prior to buying it. My thrifty side, however, wants to avoid the $150 fee a local company would charge me to inspect the vehicle. The solution? I would ask a fellow member of the BMW enthusiast community who lives in San Diego to take a look at the car for me. There are plenty of BMW forum members that would be more than happy to offer their time and expertise to a fellow east coast bimmerphile in need.
Shipping
There is a sea of car shipping companies that would gladly bring our pioneers their newly acquired vehicles home at a reasonable price. One example, Dependable Auto Shippers operate a fleet of state-of-the-art, satellite tracked vehicle shipping transporters, which allow one to track one’s car while it's on its way much like one would track a package. Yet, a healthy number of this new breed of used cars buyers opt for driving their new purchase home on their own instead. It’s cheaper, it’s faster, and admittedly, it’s much more exciting. Sellers specializing in online sales of this kind have also adapted to accommodate the demands of this new kind of used car buyer. Airport pickups for our weary yet eager buyers are more or less industry standard, these days. Sellers specializing exclusively in online sales, providing a hot meal for their ‘guests’ at the family table before they depart on their voyage home, is not unheard of.
Although buying a used car online sight unseen is not for the faint of heart, it is a growing phenomenon, which if executed carefully, could be a very rewarding experience for all parties involved.
WEBSITE:
http://www.tampabayautonetwork.com/
TWITTER:
http://twitter.com/TmpAutoNtwrk
YOU TUBE:
http://www.youtube.com/user/TampaBayAutoNetwork
FACEBOOK:
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Brandon-FL/Tampa-Bay-AutoNetwork/45693399084?ref=search&sid=1365777692.1099710788..1#!!
Historically, conventional used car buyers have been able to kick its tires, take it for a spin, and haggle over the asking price of the car they like at their local dealer since the invention of the automobile. Because of the internet, a considerable number of these “conventional” used car buyers have found a myriad of ways to harness the power of the ever expanding online automotive resources and tools available at their disposal to make informed buying decisions.
It is from those online savvy buyers that a new breed has emerged - those who buy their used cars online, sight unseen. Although they represent a relatively small portion of the used car buyers, these brave souls see an unmatched advantage and find ways to minimize the risks. But what’s in it for them, one might ask? Simple, actually: selection and price. The internet offers easy access to a vast selection of vehicles worldwide - online car portals, classifieds, conventional dealers with online presence and pure online-only outfits, online used car brokers, to name but a few. Since most of them are looking for a specific vehicle, their chance of finding “the one” is far greater online compared to the confines of their local area.
Needless to say, virtually all of them are looking for a bargain. Our brave souls take risks, but these are justified, at least in their eyes, because of the savings they realize by utilizing the online channel. How do they do it? They, too, are well-armed with the online tools they need to make intelligent buying decisions. Here is how these online tools help them through the decision-making and buying steps of the process.
Fair Market Value
Determining whether a particular car is a bargain is a function of understanding its fair market value given its condition in the context of the current supply and demand. For the non-economists, of course, there are a number of excellent online market valuation sources available. Kelley Blue Book, NADAGuides, Edmunds.com are some of the most widely used car pricing providers. They all base estimates on a large number of recorded transactions and provide appraisal adjustments for the year, make, model, mileage, options, condition and even local market trends. As their appraisal algorithms differ slightly from each other, the estimates may vary, so checking more than one source is recommended. There are three major price levels: trade-in (or wholesale), private party and retail. Trade-in is what one would expect to get from a dealer for one’s used car – it is the lowest of the three averages, but it’s important to know as a baseline. Private party is what one would expect to get if one sells a car to another person, and retail is what one would pay for that car at a used car dealership.
Third Party Vehicle History Reports
In addition to the seller’s honest word and availability of service records our prudent innovators tap into the same third party vehicle history report providers the rest of the used car buyers use. CARFAX and Experian’s AutoCheck, initially serving the automotive professionals only, have been available to the general public for a number of years now. For $24.99 CARFAX offers 30 days and AutoCheck offers 60 days of unlimited vehicle history reports. These provide extensive reporting on the vehicles’ recorded history: date and type of registration and renewal events, as well as checking for recorded incidents, odometer rollbacks, junk, salvage, rebuilt titles, insurance loss, theft, lemon buybacks, etc. Many dealers realize the convincing power of stating the recorded facts and now offer free vehicle history reports for the cars they sell.
Car Inspections
Independent vehicle appraisal/inspection services with online presence have also seen a boost in their business. For $99.95, CARCHEX offers to give any automobile a 155-point pre-purchase auto inspection almost anywhere in the USA. Not too high a price for peace of mind, especially if it can save one from having to deal with surprise repairs. For half of this amount, one can find a mechanic in the local directory who can check out the car and even take it for a test drive on one's behalf and then fax a detailed report. Nevertheless, some of the more thrifty buyers have found ways to save themselves the nominal fees mechanics charge without depriving themselves of the peace of mind of a pre-sale inspection. Say, I live in Boston and happened to find a 1974 BMW 2002tii that I really wanted all the way in San Diego. Now, I would definitely want the car inspected prior to buying it. My thrifty side, however, wants to avoid the $150 fee a local company would charge me to inspect the vehicle. The solution? I would ask a fellow member of the BMW enthusiast community who lives in San Diego to take a look at the car for me. There are plenty of BMW forum members that would be more than happy to offer their time and expertise to a fellow east coast bimmerphile in need.
Shipping
There is a sea of car shipping companies that would gladly bring our pioneers their newly acquired vehicles home at a reasonable price. One example, Dependable Auto Shippers operate a fleet of state-of-the-art, satellite tracked vehicle shipping transporters, which allow one to track one’s car while it's on its way much like one would track a package. Yet, a healthy number of this new breed of used cars buyers opt for driving their new purchase home on their own instead. It’s cheaper, it’s faster, and admittedly, it’s much more exciting. Sellers specializing in online sales of this kind have also adapted to accommodate the demands of this new kind of used car buyer. Airport pickups for our weary yet eager buyers are more or less industry standard, these days. Sellers specializing exclusively in online sales, providing a hot meal for their ‘guests’ at the family table before they depart on their voyage home, is not unheard of.
Although buying a used car online sight unseen is not for the faint of heart, it is a growing phenomenon, which if executed carefully, could be a very rewarding experience for all parties involved.
WEBSITE:
http://www.tampabayautonetwork.com/
TWITTER:
http://twitter.com/TmpAutoNtwrk
YOU TUBE:
http://www.youtube.com/user/TampaBayAutoNetwork
FACEBOOK:
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Brandon-FL/Tampa-Bay-AutoNetwork/45693399084?ref=search&sid=1365777692.1099710788..1#!!
Sunday, February 28, 2010
Auto Sales Rise in January 2010
DETROIT — Toyota's auto sales fell 16 percent in January, a month in which it recalled millions of vehicles and halted sales of several models. Most other automakers reported higher sales and looked for opportunities to snatch sales from the troubled Japanese automaker.
Automakers expected sales to improve over January 2009, when they dipped to a 26-year low due to the tough economy.
General Motors said its January sales rose 14 percent because of higher fleet and crossover vehicle sales. Crossovers are SUV-like in size but sit on a car instead of a truck frame. Ford Motor Co., meanwhile, saw sales rise 25 percent on higher fleet sales, while Nissan's rose 16 percent, thanks to higher demand for sedans like the Versa, Sentra and Maxima. Hyundai's sales rose 24 percent as sales of the newly redesigned Tucson sport utility vehicle doubled.
Chrysler fell 8 percent on declining sales of Ram trucks and Jeeps, while Honda's sales slipped 5 percent on weaker SUV and crossover demand.
Toyota said on Jan. 26 it would suspend sales of the Camry sedan, its top-selling vehicle, and seven other cars and trucks following a recall over sticky accelerator pedals that could cause sudden acceleration.
"There is no doubt that the stop sale, which was put in place last week, impacted our sales," said Bob Carter, Toyota's group vice president and general manager.
Car-buying Web site Edmunds.com predicted Toyota's U.S. market share would drop to 14.7 percent in January, its lowest level since March 2006.
Showing how quickly the newer, leaner GM can react, it offered zero percent financing and other incentives to Toyota drivers last week. Ford also offered incentives to Toyota drivers who trade in vehicles.
"This was an opportunity to help customers who are truly concerned about their personal safety," she said.
George Pipas, Ford's top sales analyst, said he did not see evidence that Ford was taking buyers from Toyota. Pipas said much of Ford's sales increase came from a jump in sales to rental car companies, governments and other large fleet buyers. Ford said fleet sales jumped more than 150 percent over January 2009, an indication that the credit crunch was lifting and businesses could spend on fleets again.
WEBSITE:
http://www.tampabayautonetwork.com/
TWITTER:
http://twitter.com/TmpAutoNtwrk
YOU TUBE:
http://www.youtube.com/user/TampaBayAutoNetwork
Automakers expected sales to improve over January 2009, when they dipped to a 26-year low due to the tough economy.
General Motors said its January sales rose 14 percent because of higher fleet and crossover vehicle sales. Crossovers are SUV-like in size but sit on a car instead of a truck frame. Ford Motor Co., meanwhile, saw sales rise 25 percent on higher fleet sales, while Nissan's rose 16 percent, thanks to higher demand for sedans like the Versa, Sentra and Maxima. Hyundai's sales rose 24 percent as sales of the newly redesigned Tucson sport utility vehicle doubled.
Chrysler fell 8 percent on declining sales of Ram trucks and Jeeps, while Honda's sales slipped 5 percent on weaker SUV and crossover demand.
Toyota said on Jan. 26 it would suspend sales of the Camry sedan, its top-selling vehicle, and seven other cars and trucks following a recall over sticky accelerator pedals that could cause sudden acceleration.
"There is no doubt that the stop sale, which was put in place last week, impacted our sales," said Bob Carter, Toyota's group vice president and general manager.
Car-buying Web site Edmunds.com predicted Toyota's U.S. market share would drop to 14.7 percent in January, its lowest level since March 2006.
Showing how quickly the newer, leaner GM can react, it offered zero percent financing and other incentives to Toyota drivers last week. Ford also offered incentives to Toyota drivers who trade in vehicles.
"This was an opportunity to help customers who are truly concerned about their personal safety," she said.
George Pipas, Ford's top sales analyst, said he did not see evidence that Ford was taking buyers from Toyota. Pipas said much of Ford's sales increase came from a jump in sales to rental car companies, governments and other large fleet buyers. Ford said fleet sales jumped more than 150 percent over January 2009, an indication that the credit crunch was lifting and businesses could spend on fleets again.
WEBSITE:
http://www.tampabayautonetwork.com/
TWITTER:
http://twitter.com/TmpAutoNtwrk
YOU TUBE:
http://www.youtube.com/user/TampaBayAutoNetwork
Tuesday, December 22, 2009
Understand Used Car Salvage Titles
As you shop for a used car, you might come across the phrase “salvage title” in a used car advertisement. The price is going to seem right and you’re really going to want to buy it. Just make sure you act with your brain and not your heart. There are a lot of things to consider before you can understand used car salvage titles.
We're not here to say used car salvage titles are automatically a bad idea, but make sure you know what you’re getting into before purchasing a used car with a salvage title.
Here are four things you absolutely have to do before even considering buying a vehicle with a salvage title:
•Understand What a Salvage Title Is
•Get a CarFax report
•Get a Qualified Inspection
•Weigh the savings vs. future costs
Understand What a Salvage Title Is
In almost all cases, salvage title is given to any vehicle that has sustained damage worth 75% or more of its value. For example, if you drive a 2002 Honda Civic worth $9415 and it suffers $7061 in damage in a collision, it’s going to be branded with a title stamped “salvage.” In other words, it’s not considered fit to drive. Some states also call this a junk title.
According to carfax.com, the following 11 states also use salvage titles to identify stolen vehicles: Arizona, Florida, Georgia, Illinois, Maryland, Minnesota, New Jersey, New Mexico, New York, Oklahoma, and Oregon.
As mentioned, requirements are going to vary by state. In Florida, a car has to be damaged to 80% of its value before the accident. Vehicles in Minnesota are considered salvaged when they are declared "repairable total loss" by an insurance company, were worth at least $5,000 before the damage or are less than six years old.
A $4,000 car cannot be deemed salvage in Minnesota, which is a bad thing. Buyer beware when buying older cars from this state (or states with similar requirements). It makes poorer people more susceptible to unsafe vehicles.
The Arizona Motor Vehicle Division sums it up well with this statement: “Needless to say, there is risk involved in buying a restored salvage vehicle. While many of the parts may be new, there will be some that are not, and even trained mechanics cannot always gauge the life expectancy of a vehicle. Further, the vehicle will be difficult to resell if you ever choose to, and very few, if any, dealers will take it as a trade-in.”
By the way, it’s considered fraud to sell a vehicle without disclosing that it once had a salvage or junk title. That’s why titles will be branded “resalvaged” or something similar to denote a vehicle that has been repaired from a salvage title.
Here’s an important tip when dealing with a resalvaged title. Make the seller demonstrate what work has been done. In most states, receipts for parts and repair work have to be submitted in order to get the resalvage title. You just can’t walk into the motor vehicles department and get the new title without proof.
Get a CarFax Report
Typically, CarFax reports aren’t the be all and end all, but I think you’ll find them useful when dealing with vehicles with salvage titles. They provide a great deal of information about a vehicle’s history if you know what you’re looking for.
The details section of the report is going to focus on two important areas:
• frame damage check
• airbag deployment check
Frame Damage Check: Cars with salvage titles have major problems. This is a warning that absolutely needs to be checked out. Your best bet is going to be an auto body repair facility. These mechanics have the best expertise for checking frame damage.
It’s important to have the frame check because it’s the basic skeleton of your car. Metal that has been straightened after a collision is permanently fatigued. That could lead to future weaknesses or problems. It’s just like a broken leg that has been set. That bone is going to give you trouble somewhere down the road.
Airbag Deployment Check: This is extremely important – not just because it indicates the car was in an accident and needs further inspection. You need to have your mechanic make sure the airbag was replaced. Unscrupulous body shops may not do the work.
Get a Qualified Inspection
As mentioned above with CarFax reports, you need to get a qualified inspection of any car with a salvage title. Actually, you’re going to need two: frame and mechanical.
Frame Inspection: The most important inspection is going to be the frame. Find an auto body shop with certified technicians to do this work. It’s worth the cost. These men and women have the most experience in fixing frame problems. They’re going to know the true condition of the used car’s frame.
Some folks recommend going to three auto body shops. I’m neutral on that idea because it is a major time investment and financial investment. I’d recommend three inspections on a vehicle worth more than $50,000. On less expensive vehicles, you begin to eat up your savings from buying a salvage-title vehicle.
Mechanical Inspection: This should be done for every used car regardless of its title. This will spot any potential long-term or short-term operating problems. The existence of a problem isn’t an automatic deal breaker. It’s just another factor in determining the vehicle’s value.
Weigh the Savings vs. Future Costs
Is it worth it to you to save $2000 on a car, if it’s going to cost you $3000 down the road in repairs? It might be if you’re capable of performing the repairs.
Also, are the savings worth it if you’re going to have trouble selling this car down the road? You may have difficulty finding savvy buyers who know salvage titles or resalvage titles aren’t always a deal killer.
The savings could also be worth it if you plan to run this car into the ground. If you’ve saved a good deal of money, you can always junk the vehicle when the time comes instead of repairing it.
WEBSITE:
http://www.tampabayautonetwork.com/
TWITTER:
http://twitter.com/TmpAutoNtwrk
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We're not here to say used car salvage titles are automatically a bad idea, but make sure you know what you’re getting into before purchasing a used car with a salvage title.
Here are four things you absolutely have to do before even considering buying a vehicle with a salvage title:
•Understand What a Salvage Title Is
•Get a CarFax report
•Get a Qualified Inspection
•Weigh the savings vs. future costs
Understand What a Salvage Title Is
In almost all cases, salvage title is given to any vehicle that has sustained damage worth 75% or more of its value. For example, if you drive a 2002 Honda Civic worth $9415 and it suffers $7061 in damage in a collision, it’s going to be branded with a title stamped “salvage.” In other words, it’s not considered fit to drive. Some states also call this a junk title.
According to carfax.com, the following 11 states also use salvage titles to identify stolen vehicles: Arizona, Florida, Georgia, Illinois, Maryland, Minnesota, New Jersey, New Mexico, New York, Oklahoma, and Oregon.
As mentioned, requirements are going to vary by state. In Florida, a car has to be damaged to 80% of its value before the accident. Vehicles in Minnesota are considered salvaged when they are declared "repairable total loss" by an insurance company, were worth at least $5,000 before the damage or are less than six years old.
A $4,000 car cannot be deemed salvage in Minnesota, which is a bad thing. Buyer beware when buying older cars from this state (or states with similar requirements). It makes poorer people more susceptible to unsafe vehicles.
The Arizona Motor Vehicle Division sums it up well with this statement: “Needless to say, there is risk involved in buying a restored salvage vehicle. While many of the parts may be new, there will be some that are not, and even trained mechanics cannot always gauge the life expectancy of a vehicle. Further, the vehicle will be difficult to resell if you ever choose to, and very few, if any, dealers will take it as a trade-in.”
By the way, it’s considered fraud to sell a vehicle without disclosing that it once had a salvage or junk title. That’s why titles will be branded “resalvaged” or something similar to denote a vehicle that has been repaired from a salvage title.
Here’s an important tip when dealing with a resalvaged title. Make the seller demonstrate what work has been done. In most states, receipts for parts and repair work have to be submitted in order to get the resalvage title. You just can’t walk into the motor vehicles department and get the new title without proof.
Get a CarFax Report
Typically, CarFax reports aren’t the be all and end all, but I think you’ll find them useful when dealing with vehicles with salvage titles. They provide a great deal of information about a vehicle’s history if you know what you’re looking for.
The details section of the report is going to focus on two important areas:
• frame damage check
• airbag deployment check
Frame Damage Check: Cars with salvage titles have major problems. This is a warning that absolutely needs to be checked out. Your best bet is going to be an auto body repair facility. These mechanics have the best expertise for checking frame damage.
It’s important to have the frame check because it’s the basic skeleton of your car. Metal that has been straightened after a collision is permanently fatigued. That could lead to future weaknesses or problems. It’s just like a broken leg that has been set. That bone is going to give you trouble somewhere down the road.
Airbag Deployment Check: This is extremely important – not just because it indicates the car was in an accident and needs further inspection. You need to have your mechanic make sure the airbag was replaced. Unscrupulous body shops may not do the work.
Get a Qualified Inspection
As mentioned above with CarFax reports, you need to get a qualified inspection of any car with a salvage title. Actually, you’re going to need two: frame and mechanical.
Frame Inspection: The most important inspection is going to be the frame. Find an auto body shop with certified technicians to do this work. It’s worth the cost. These men and women have the most experience in fixing frame problems. They’re going to know the true condition of the used car’s frame.
Some folks recommend going to three auto body shops. I’m neutral on that idea because it is a major time investment and financial investment. I’d recommend three inspections on a vehicle worth more than $50,000. On less expensive vehicles, you begin to eat up your savings from buying a salvage-title vehicle.
Mechanical Inspection: This should be done for every used car regardless of its title. This will spot any potential long-term or short-term operating problems. The existence of a problem isn’t an automatic deal breaker. It’s just another factor in determining the vehicle’s value.
Weigh the Savings vs. Future Costs
Is it worth it to you to save $2000 on a car, if it’s going to cost you $3000 down the road in repairs? It might be if you’re capable of performing the repairs.
Also, are the savings worth it if you’re going to have trouble selling this car down the road? You may have difficulty finding savvy buyers who know salvage titles or resalvage titles aren’t always a deal killer.
The savings could also be worth it if you plan to run this car into the ground. If you’ve saved a good deal of money, you can always junk the vehicle when the time comes instead of repairing it.
WEBSITE:
http://www.tampabayautonetwork.com/
TWITTER:
http://twitter.com/TmpAutoNtwrk
YOU TUBE:
http://www.youtube.com/user/TampaBayAutoNetwork
Friday, December 18, 2009
Is Your Check Engine Light On?
Have you ever noticed that when your Check Engine Light comes on, the car runs fine? There are no noises or signs of anything uncommon going on? Why? Becasue there isn't anything seriously wrong. It's more than likely a quick, easy, inexpensive fix that shouldn't cost you any more than a couple hundred dollars, at most.
Here's What To Do and What Not To Do.... and Why:
- First and foremost, DO NOT FREAK OUT! Why? Because you will end up spending hundreds and hundreds of dollars more than you should.
- After you DON'T freak out, check your gas cap. Why? Because a loose gas cap is a common reason for triggering a Check Engine Light. It sounds too simple and silly to be true, but guess what.... it's true. After filling up your tank, make sure the cap clicks at least 3 times before jumping back in your car. If this is what triggered the light, it will turn off once it's tightened.
- If that didn't fix the problem, go to an Advance Auto Parts, Discount Auto Parts, or NAPA store. Why? Because they ARE NOT mechanics. They sell parts, not fix or replace them. They will scan your car for free and they will be honest with you, unlike most mechanics (unfortunately). Their scanner will pull a "code" which will be translated into the actual problem (if there actually is a problem). In turn, they may try to sell you the part (more than likely a sensor or hose), but it's up to you whether or not you want to purchase the part yourself. Either way, you will know exactly what triggered the light to come on, so you will not be taken advantage of by a Service Shop or Repair Facility. You can save some money by purchasing the part at the Auto Parts Store and having a Service or Repair Facility install it. Believe it or not, it can actually be absolutely NOTHING AT ALL (you'll see what we mean later in this article). If this is the case, the Auto Parts store can reset the computer and the light will turn off.
- DO NOT go to AAMCO, or any other Franchise Service and Repair Facility for their FREE diagnosis of what triggered the light. Why? You know, as well as us, that nothing is FREE at these places. Well, the actual scan might be, but we will guarantee their estimate for repairs will exceed a couple hundred dollars, when in fact it should barely cost that much to fix.
- DO NOT go to the Manufacturer's Service Department. Why? Same as above, except they will not scan the car for free, they'll probably charge you an hour labor, when in fact it will take them all but 30 seconds to scan, and then hit you up for $400-$500 in unecessary repairs. You'll be surprised how many Manufacturer's set the cars computer to trigger that light at certain mileage intervals, in hopes you will freak out, run to them, and get charged hundreds and hundreds and hundreds of dollars for them to do absolutely NOTHING but reset the computer! The same thing that can be done at NAPA, Discount Auto Parts, or Advance Auto Parts stores for FREE!
That's it. It's that simple. Again, common reasons are a loose gas cap, or a $50-$150 sensor, or maybe a hose with a leak, or in fact nothing at all! So don't get all nervous and think your car is broken, because in fact it's not that serious of an issue.
One thing we do want to point out is if the Check Engine Light is flashing. If this happens, you actually do have some serious issues. In this case, get to a reputable Service and Repair Facility ASAP. Why? More times than none, a flashing Check Engine Light is in fact a direct engine or transmission issue.
- Tampa Bay Auto Network
WEBSITE:
http://www.tampabayautonetwork.com/ TWITTER:
http://twitter.com/TmpAutoNtwrk
YOU TUBE:
http://www.youtube.com/user/TampaBayAutoNetwork
Wednesday, December 2, 2009
Tips and Advice on Reading Used Car Vehicle Identification Numbers - VINs
The most important number in a used car is not its price or fuel economy rating. It is its Vehicle Identification Number or VIN, as it is more commonly known. Reading used car vehicle identification numbers will help you know if the used car or truck you are buying has the equipment you think it does.
How To Read a VIN
A VIN is basically a serial number for your car, truck or SUV. It is 17 characters long and is a mixture of numbers and letters. It has four parts:
• World Manufacturer's Identification (WMI - three numbers or letters)
• Vehicle Description Section (VDS - five numbers or letters)
• The VIN Accuracy Check Digit (one number)
• Vehicle Identification Section (VIS - eight numbers or letters)
The First Three Characters
These numbers and letters are the manufacturer identification and tell you where the vehicle was built.
The First Character tells you where the vehicle was built. The U.S. is 1 or 4, Canada is 2, and Mexico is 3. Australia, New Zealand and some South American countries are also represented by numbers. Some of the more common countries are: Japan (J), Italy (Z), Germany (W) and Great Britain (S).
The Second Character will tell you the manufacturer while the Third Character identifies the kind of vehicle or the company’s manufacturing division.
The 4th to 8th Characters
This is the vehicle description series. It identifies the body style, powerplant, brakes, and the restraint system. The problem is different companies put the information in different places. With GM, for example, the restraint info is in the 7th character position, while BMW has the code in its 8th character position. By the way, if you’re buying a Chevy Impala and the 7th digit is a “0” your airbags have been deleted.
The 9th Character
This is something called a check digit. It verifies the previous 8 characters based on a mathematical computation developed by the U.S. Department of Transportation.
The 10th Character
This represents the year the car was built. Cars built before 1980 don’t have VINs, which is why the system starts in 1980. You will also notice the system does not use every letter in the alphabet. I, O, Q, U, and Z are omitted. The system are repeats itself every 30 years probably assuming most people could tell the difference between a 1980 and 2010 model.
• A: 1980
• B: 1981
• C: 1982
• D: 1983
• E: 1984
• F: 1985
• G: 1986
• H: 1987
• J: 1988
• K: 1989
• L: 1990
• M: 1991
• N: 1992
• P: 1993
• R: 1994
• S: 1995
• T: 1996
• V: 1997
• W: 1998
• X: 1999
• Y: 2000
• 1: 2001
• 2: 2002
• 3: 2003
• 4: 2004
• 5: 2005
• 6: 2006
• 7: 2007
• 8: 2008
• 9: 2009
• A: 2010
• B: 2011
• C: 2012
• D: 2013
• E: 2014
• F: 2015
The 11th Character
This tells you the plant where your car was built. Frankly, when buying a used car, this should not be a huge concern. Quality problems will have demonstrated themselves long before your purchase.
The 12th through 17th Characters
These are what most of us call the serial numbers of the car. Each manufacturer has a different system for what this means.
In the end, the best bet for understanding various components of a used vehicle’s VIN, is to go to a search engine and type in Understanding BMW VIN. It will take you to various sites that will help you further decipher the VIN.
WEBSITE:
http://www.tampabayautonetwork.com/
TWITTER:
http://twitter.com/TmpAutoNtwrk
YOU TUBE:
http://www.youtube.com/user/TampaBayAutoNetwork
How To Read a VIN
A VIN is basically a serial number for your car, truck or SUV. It is 17 characters long and is a mixture of numbers and letters. It has four parts:
• World Manufacturer's Identification (WMI - three numbers or letters)
• Vehicle Description Section (VDS - five numbers or letters)
• The VIN Accuracy Check Digit (one number)
• Vehicle Identification Section (VIS - eight numbers or letters)
The First Three Characters
These numbers and letters are the manufacturer identification and tell you where the vehicle was built.
The First Character tells you where the vehicle was built. The U.S. is 1 or 4, Canada is 2, and Mexico is 3. Australia, New Zealand and some South American countries are also represented by numbers. Some of the more common countries are: Japan (J), Italy (Z), Germany (W) and Great Britain (S).
The Second Character will tell you the manufacturer while the Third Character identifies the kind of vehicle or the company’s manufacturing division.
The 4th to 8th Characters
This is the vehicle description series. It identifies the body style, powerplant, brakes, and the restraint system. The problem is different companies put the information in different places. With GM, for example, the restraint info is in the 7th character position, while BMW has the code in its 8th character position. By the way, if you’re buying a Chevy Impala and the 7th digit is a “0” your airbags have been deleted.
The 9th Character
This is something called a check digit. It verifies the previous 8 characters based on a mathematical computation developed by the U.S. Department of Transportation.
The 10th Character
This represents the year the car was built. Cars built before 1980 don’t have VINs, which is why the system starts in 1980. You will also notice the system does not use every letter in the alphabet. I, O, Q, U, and Z are omitted. The system are repeats itself every 30 years probably assuming most people could tell the difference between a 1980 and 2010 model.
• A: 1980
• B: 1981
• C: 1982
• D: 1983
• E: 1984
• F: 1985
• G: 1986
• H: 1987
• J: 1988
• K: 1989
• L: 1990
• M: 1991
• N: 1992
• P: 1993
• R: 1994
• S: 1995
• T: 1996
• V: 1997
• W: 1998
• X: 1999
• Y: 2000
• 1: 2001
• 2: 2002
• 3: 2003
• 4: 2004
• 5: 2005
• 6: 2006
• 7: 2007
• 8: 2008
• 9: 2009
• A: 2010
• B: 2011
• C: 2012
• D: 2013
• E: 2014
• F: 2015
The 11th Character
This tells you the plant where your car was built. Frankly, when buying a used car, this should not be a huge concern. Quality problems will have demonstrated themselves long before your purchase.
The 12th through 17th Characters
These are what most of us call the serial numbers of the car. Each manufacturer has a different system for what this means.
In the end, the best bet for understanding various components of a used vehicle’s VIN, is to go to a search engine and type in Understanding BMW VIN. It will take you to various sites that will help you further decipher the VIN.
WEBSITE:
http://www.tampabayautonetwork.com/
TWITTER:
http://twitter.com/TmpAutoNtwrk
YOU TUBE:
http://www.youtube.com/user/TampaBayAutoNetwork
Tuesday, December 1, 2009
Predicting What A Used Car Will Be Worth
Do you have your eye on a new car or truck that has just been introduced, but you know you can’t afford it new? Well, there is a simple formula for predicting what a used vehicle is going to be worth three years down the road.
The first fact to consider is almost all used cars, trucks, SUVs and crossovers lose a minimum of 24% of their value after 12 months. That’s based on the Manufacturer Suggested Retail Price.
To keep things simple, a used car costing $20,000 would be worth $15,200 after one year. So say the folks from Black Book (www.blackbookusa.com). It sounds like a dating sight, but it’s actually the number one resource for predicting a car’s residual value when it goes on sale. That’s extremely important for setting leasing rates.
Then, from the basic 24% drop in value, you can start deducting 6% a year. A decent used car, introduced with the price of $20,000, would have an estimated value breaking down this way:
•After 12 months: $15,200
•After 24 months: $14,288
•After 36 months: $13,430
•After 48 months: $12,624
Of course, this formula will not work 100% of the time because some cars and trucks have residual values that drop like stones after 12 months. Case in point would be the Chevy HHR.
• 2009 Chevrolet HHR LT - $20,729
• 2008 Chevrolet HHR LT - $11,225 dealer price, according to Edmunds.com.
That’s a drop of 46% in one year. Wait two years and you’re looking at a $10,551 vehicle. Proving pretty much if you want a Chevy HHR, buy a used one. You are going to save a ton of money.
Use this basic formula to help you get started on what the value of a used car should be. It will save you from spending too much on your next used car or it will help you put aside the right amount if you’re a good saver!
WEBSITE:
http://www.tampabayautonetwork.com/
TWITTER:
http://twitter.com/TmpAutoNtwrk
YOU TUBE:
http://www.youtube.com/user/TampaBayAutoNetwork
The first fact to consider is almost all used cars, trucks, SUVs and crossovers lose a minimum of 24% of their value after 12 months. That’s based on the Manufacturer Suggested Retail Price.
To keep things simple, a used car costing $20,000 would be worth $15,200 after one year. So say the folks from Black Book (www.blackbookusa.com). It sounds like a dating sight, but it’s actually the number one resource for predicting a car’s residual value when it goes on sale. That’s extremely important for setting leasing rates.
Then, from the basic 24% drop in value, you can start deducting 6% a year. A decent used car, introduced with the price of $20,000, would have an estimated value breaking down this way:
•After 12 months: $15,200
•After 24 months: $14,288
•After 36 months: $13,430
•After 48 months: $12,624
Of course, this formula will not work 100% of the time because some cars and trucks have residual values that drop like stones after 12 months. Case in point would be the Chevy HHR.
• 2009 Chevrolet HHR LT - $20,729
• 2008 Chevrolet HHR LT - $11,225 dealer price, according to Edmunds.com.
That’s a drop of 46% in one year. Wait two years and you’re looking at a $10,551 vehicle. Proving pretty much if you want a Chevy HHR, buy a used one. You are going to save a ton of money.
Use this basic formula to help you get started on what the value of a used car should be. It will save you from spending too much on your next used car or it will help you put aside the right amount if you’re a good saver!
WEBSITE:
http://www.tampabayautonetwork.com/
TWITTER:
http://twitter.com/TmpAutoNtwrk
YOU TUBE:
http://www.youtube.com/user/TampaBayAutoNetwork
Thursday, November 19, 2009
How To Spot Car Scams On Craigslist
1 - Log on to Craigslist and look for a deal on a car. Some of the most successful Craigslist car scams involve used cars that are rare or "classics".
2 - Look for expensive cars listed for a price well below their market value. Scammers use very obvious deals to get potential victims interested in doing business with them.
3 - Respond to the ad. Get an immediate reply from the scammer telling you the reason why he is selling the car, even though the details are irrelevant. Scammers usually refer to an overseas move and difficulty in transferring the car into the new country.
4 - Note that that the scammer is only willing to give you a limited amount of information about his identity. In some cases, the scammer may give you more information than is needed, but the information will be fake or unverifiable.
5 - Refuse to close the transaction without seeing the car. The seller will try to convince you to use a supposedly secure escrow service to transfer and hold your money until the transaction has been completed. The escrow service will be associated with a company that you've never heard of or based in a foreign country. In some cases, the scammer will insist that you wire money.
6 - Understand that if you use the escrow service or wire money to the scammer the car will never be delivered and you'll lose your money.
WEBSITE:
http://www.tampabayautonetwork.com/
TWITTER:
http://twitter.com/TmpAutoNtwrk
YOU TUBE:
http://www.youtube.com/user/TampaBayAutoNetwork
2 - Look for expensive cars listed for a price well below their market value. Scammers use very obvious deals to get potential victims interested in doing business with them.
3 - Respond to the ad. Get an immediate reply from the scammer telling you the reason why he is selling the car, even though the details are irrelevant. Scammers usually refer to an overseas move and difficulty in transferring the car into the new country.
4 - Note that that the scammer is only willing to give you a limited amount of information about his identity. In some cases, the scammer may give you more information than is needed, but the information will be fake or unverifiable.
5 - Refuse to close the transaction without seeing the car. The seller will try to convince you to use a supposedly secure escrow service to transfer and hold your money until the transaction has been completed. The escrow service will be associated with a company that you've never heard of or based in a foreign country. In some cases, the scammer will insist that you wire money.
6 - Understand that if you use the escrow service or wire money to the scammer the car will never be delivered and you'll lose your money.
WEBSITE:
http://www.tampabayautonetwork.com/
TWITTER:
http://twitter.com/TmpAutoNtwrk
YOU TUBE:
http://www.youtube.com/user/TampaBayAutoNetwork
Wednesday, November 18, 2009
Are You a Distracted Driver?
Ever tried to eat a burger while driving? What about trying to separate your two fighting kids in the back seat? Ever reached down to pick up a CD that fell on the floor while driving? These are just a few of the most common driver distractions.
We all become more comfortable driving as the years progress, but unfortunately many of us become a little too confident. Your license to drive is not a license to drive while simultaneously putting on your makeup and shoving down a quick breakfast.
Let's take a look at some common driver distractions. Are you guilty of any of these?
• Cell Phones—Cell phone use in cars has been a hot topic ever since cell phones started becoming popular. We all know that talking on our phones can distract our attention from driving. We all know that we should use hands-free devices whenever possible (although these can still be a distraction, just like the distracting discussions topic above). Yet a large percentage of us still talk on our cell phones frequently while driving. Try to keep your cell phone use while driving limited to emergencies only. If you get a call you really want to take, pull over in a safe spot and have your conversation.
• Text Messaging—An even greater distraction than cell phones, text messaging while driving is becoming such a concern that many local and state governments are considering legislation that would make it illegal to text while driving (Washington state has already passed such legislation). Teenagers are especially prone to the dangers of texting while driving. If there is a teen driver with access to a cell phone in your household, talk to them about the dangers of texting while driving. Just as important, make sure you set an example for your teen by not texting while driving yourself.
• Outside Distractions—Whether it's a restaurant that just opened, a human billboard pointing the way to new homes, a beautiful rainbow or a bad accident, most of us just cannot resist the urge to take a peek, even when we should be concentrating on the road.
• Sicknesses—A sudden onset of sneezes, a bad cough and searching your car for a tissue to catch that runny nose are all examples of how being sick can distract you from driving. Not to mention the fact that most of us are not at our most alert when we are sick. That's why it is extra important to pay attention to the road and to wait until you are stopped at a traffic light to reach for that tissue. Of course, we can't predict sneezes, but make sure you quickly look back to the road after you sneeze.
• Inspector Gadget—Cars these days often have more controls than a small plane. Besides the obvious stereo and temperature controls, many cars have features such as navigation systems and televisions. CD players can be especially distracting, as it takes at least one hand off the steering wheel to pick out a CD and put it in the player, especially if your pack of CDs is on the ground and you have to reach for them…which brings us to…
• Reaching for the Unreachable—We are all guilty of this at one time or another. For some reason, we just HAVE to have that book in the back seat in our hands now. But this is one of the worst driver distractions, as it usually means that our hand or hands are off the wheel AND our eyes are off the road. Next time, try to make yourself wait to grab that errant CD until you are stopped at a traffic light. Or, if it's safe, pull over and grab whatever you need.
• Eating and Drinking—One of the most common driver distractions is eating and/or drinking while driving. These days, we all seem to be in a rush, and many of us try to scarf down our breakfast or lunch on our way to work. Some of the worst foods to eat while driving are coffee/tea (a hot spill on your leg will certainly distract you), messy hamburgers or sandwiches that drop stuff all over you while you are driving, anything fried that leaves you with greasy hands that could slip off the steering wheel, and, similarly, things like chocolate and jelly doughnuts that leave your hands sticky or slick. Try to avoid eating on the road whenever possible. If you are in a rush, grab a quick bite and eat it in the parking lot before leaving.
• Distracting Discussions—Ever gotten in a heated debate while driving? What about listening and intervening as your children in the backseat start arguing? Interaction with your passengers is another common driving distraction. This can especially be a problem for new drivers, who should focus all their attention on their driving and not on their passengers.
• Beautification—Again, you're running late. You forgot to put on your mascara/brush your hair/shave. What better place to do it than in the car, right? Wrong! Things that involve tools not only take your hands off the steering wheel and your eyes off the road, they also have the potential to inflict pain and cause further distraction. If you are applying eye makeup or shaving and you have to brake suddenly, think of the injuries that could ensue!
The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) states that distracted driving causes around 25 percent of the auto accidents in the U.S. each year. That's nearly 1.6 million accidents annually caused by many of the things we discussed above, most of which are so easily preventable. Try to avoid letting distractions take your attention away from what you should be doing, concentrating on driving and protecting the lives of you and your passengers.
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We all become more comfortable driving as the years progress, but unfortunately many of us become a little too confident. Your license to drive is not a license to drive while simultaneously putting on your makeup and shoving down a quick breakfast.
Let's take a look at some common driver distractions. Are you guilty of any of these?
• Cell Phones—Cell phone use in cars has been a hot topic ever since cell phones started becoming popular. We all know that talking on our phones can distract our attention from driving. We all know that we should use hands-free devices whenever possible (although these can still be a distraction, just like the distracting discussions topic above). Yet a large percentage of us still talk on our cell phones frequently while driving. Try to keep your cell phone use while driving limited to emergencies only. If you get a call you really want to take, pull over in a safe spot and have your conversation.
• Text Messaging—An even greater distraction than cell phones, text messaging while driving is becoming such a concern that many local and state governments are considering legislation that would make it illegal to text while driving (Washington state has already passed such legislation). Teenagers are especially prone to the dangers of texting while driving. If there is a teen driver with access to a cell phone in your household, talk to them about the dangers of texting while driving. Just as important, make sure you set an example for your teen by not texting while driving yourself.
• Outside Distractions—Whether it's a restaurant that just opened, a human billboard pointing the way to new homes, a beautiful rainbow or a bad accident, most of us just cannot resist the urge to take a peek, even when we should be concentrating on the road.
• Sicknesses—A sudden onset of sneezes, a bad cough and searching your car for a tissue to catch that runny nose are all examples of how being sick can distract you from driving. Not to mention the fact that most of us are not at our most alert when we are sick. That's why it is extra important to pay attention to the road and to wait until you are stopped at a traffic light to reach for that tissue. Of course, we can't predict sneezes, but make sure you quickly look back to the road after you sneeze.
• Inspector Gadget—Cars these days often have more controls than a small plane. Besides the obvious stereo and temperature controls, many cars have features such as navigation systems and televisions. CD players can be especially distracting, as it takes at least one hand off the steering wheel to pick out a CD and put it in the player, especially if your pack of CDs is on the ground and you have to reach for them…which brings us to…
• Reaching for the Unreachable—We are all guilty of this at one time or another. For some reason, we just HAVE to have that book in the back seat in our hands now. But this is one of the worst driver distractions, as it usually means that our hand or hands are off the wheel AND our eyes are off the road. Next time, try to make yourself wait to grab that errant CD until you are stopped at a traffic light. Or, if it's safe, pull over and grab whatever you need.
• Eating and Drinking—One of the most common driver distractions is eating and/or drinking while driving. These days, we all seem to be in a rush, and many of us try to scarf down our breakfast or lunch on our way to work. Some of the worst foods to eat while driving are coffee/tea (a hot spill on your leg will certainly distract you), messy hamburgers or sandwiches that drop stuff all over you while you are driving, anything fried that leaves you with greasy hands that could slip off the steering wheel, and, similarly, things like chocolate and jelly doughnuts that leave your hands sticky or slick. Try to avoid eating on the road whenever possible. If you are in a rush, grab a quick bite and eat it in the parking lot before leaving.
• Distracting Discussions—Ever gotten in a heated debate while driving? What about listening and intervening as your children in the backseat start arguing? Interaction with your passengers is another common driving distraction. This can especially be a problem for new drivers, who should focus all their attention on their driving and not on their passengers.
• Beautification—Again, you're running late. You forgot to put on your mascara/brush your hair/shave. What better place to do it than in the car, right? Wrong! Things that involve tools not only take your hands off the steering wheel and your eyes off the road, they also have the potential to inflict pain and cause further distraction. If you are applying eye makeup or shaving and you have to brake suddenly, think of the injuries that could ensue!
The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) states that distracted driving causes around 25 percent of the auto accidents in the U.S. each year. That's nearly 1.6 million accidents annually caused by many of the things we discussed above, most of which are so easily preventable. Try to avoid letting distractions take your attention away from what you should be doing, concentrating on driving and protecting the lives of you and your passengers.
WEBSITE:
http://www.tampabayautonetwork.com/
TWITTER:
http://twitter.com/TmpAutoNtwrk
YOU TUBE:
http://www.youtube.com/user/TampaBayAutoNetwork
Thursday, November 12, 2009
Silver is the Most Popular Car Color for Ninth Year in a Row
Silver is overwhelmingly the most popular car color worldwide for the ninth consecutive year, according to data released on October 2 by auto paint giant PPG Industries.
The color silver includes charcoal and gray shades, giving it a leg up on more clearly defined colors such as black, white and red.
The European auto palate prefers silver and charcoal 35 percent of the time, followed by black, 22 percent, and blue and white, at 13 percent each. Red, commonly associated with fast Italian sports cars, is actually as rare in Europe as Italian sports cars themselves, at just 8 percent.
The Asia/Pacific region was a near mirror of Europe's preferences at the top with silver and charcoal the most common color (34 percent), followed by black (21 percent), white (17 percent) and blue (9 percent).
In North America silver and charcoal was not so dominant but still victorious, at 25 percent, followed by white (18 percent), black (16 percent), red (12 percent) and blue (11 percent).
The auto industry today would not agree with carmaker Henry Ford, who famously said of his revolutionary Model T in 1909: "Any customer can have a car painted any color that he wants so long as it is black."
"Clearly, the automotive industry is moving toward more color choices," said Jane E. Harrington, PPG manager of color styling and automotive coatings. "Going forward, automotive manufacturers are going to be relying on color more and more to distinguish their brands."
The survey was released at this year's annual Automotive Colour Trend Show in Switzerland, where the Pittsburgh-based company revealed new color ideas such as Outer Space Blue, Champagne Silver and Hulk, the same shade of green as the famed comic book character.
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http://www.tampabayautonetwork.com/
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http://twitter.com/TmpAutoNtwrk
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The color silver includes charcoal and gray shades, giving it a leg up on more clearly defined colors such as black, white and red.
The European auto palate prefers silver and charcoal 35 percent of the time, followed by black, 22 percent, and blue and white, at 13 percent each. Red, commonly associated with fast Italian sports cars, is actually as rare in Europe as Italian sports cars themselves, at just 8 percent.
The Asia/Pacific region was a near mirror of Europe's preferences at the top with silver and charcoal the most common color (34 percent), followed by black (21 percent), white (17 percent) and blue (9 percent).
In North America silver and charcoal was not so dominant but still victorious, at 25 percent, followed by white (18 percent), black (16 percent), red (12 percent) and blue (11 percent).
The auto industry today would not agree with carmaker Henry Ford, who famously said of his revolutionary Model T in 1909: "Any customer can have a car painted any color that he wants so long as it is black."
"Clearly, the automotive industry is moving toward more color choices," said Jane E. Harrington, PPG manager of color styling and automotive coatings. "Going forward, automotive manufacturers are going to be relying on color more and more to distinguish their brands."
The survey was released at this year's annual Automotive Colour Trend Show in Switzerland, where the Pittsburgh-based company revealed new color ideas such as Outer Space Blue, Champagne Silver and Hulk, the same shade of green as the famed comic book character.
WEBSITE:
http://www.tampabayautonetwork.com/
TWITTER:
http://twitter.com/TmpAutoNtwrk
YOU TUBE:
http://www.youtube.com/user/TampaBayAutoNetwork
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