FAQ: Is This An Auction Car?

Is this an Auction Car? This is a question we are asked day in and day out. It's not that we mind being asked the question, but sometimes our answer catches people by surprise.

In a perfect world, there would be a Used Car Factory that we can order any car we want, in any color combo, with all the options, and in perfect condition. Unfortunately, it's not a perfect world.

It's no secret that millions and millions and millions of Pre-Owned Cars are sold at Auctions every year. It's the main source for Franchise and Independent Dealers, across the Globe, to get their Inventory.

We are realistic, so we understand that most people do not understand this. We don't expect them to, as we do not understand other professions, but when we answer a question honestly, we certainly do not expect to be looked at like we're lying. Whether you want to believe the truth or not, there really is no reason to lie.

Yes, the majority of our vehicles are 'Auction Cars'. Without them, we would have close to no cars to sell, and you would have close to no cars to choose from. Believe it or not, we actually prefer auction cars, because we are offered a Guarantee that the car you're about to buy is free and clear of any Title, Engine, Transmission, Odometer, or Frame discrepancy's, and any single repair that may exceed $500. Not every Dealer elects this option, because like most things in life, this Guarantee is not free, but it saves us from getting involved with vehicles that have serious issues.

So, if someone tells you that ALL auction cars are junk and have issues, the person who told you that has no clue what they're talking about. Again, millions and millions and millions of good cars are sold at auctions every single year. Are there cars there that do have issues? Of course there are, but you have to weed through them and find the good ones, because there are PLENTY of good cars sold at auctions.

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Loves Bugs and Your Car

Many of you already know, and have experienced, the damage Love Bugs can and will do to your car. If you are not aware of this, keep reading.

We're going to make this short and sweet. DO NOT, we repeat, DO NOT let love bugs bake in the sun on your car, because they will PERMANENTLY damage the paint, resulting in costing you a substantial amount of money when, and if, you decide to trade in or sell your car.

When baking in the sun, the fluid inside these Love Bugs turns acidic, resulting in it eating right through the clear coat and paint, causing the permanent damage we speak of. Obviously, the only way to fix this is to repaint the damaged areas, which in turn, will cost you not only the money it costs to repaint the damaged areas, but now your car has decreased in value because it's been painted. Yes, paintwork on a car decreases its value when trading or selling, so DO NOT let this happen to you, when it can be easily avoided.

The best thing to do, when you see these annoying insects splattered on your car, is to wash them off with soap and water THE SAME DAY. The damage can happen as soon as 1 day, so DO NOT put off until tomorrow, what you can do today, especially if it will save you money in the future.

That's all for now. Carry on and have a great day!  


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Should I Sell My Car or Trade It?

The decision to Sell or Trade is faced by almost everyone in the Market for a new (or used) vehicle.... that already has a car, of course. Truth of the matter is, there are pros and cons to what to do with your trade. The one thing we hear almost every time we do a trade appraisal is "we can sell it ourselves for more than that". We realize this, but what most consumers don't realize is that what ever we decide to do with your trade (retail it or wholesale it) costs us a whole bunch of time and money, but that's a different topic we'll get in to some other time.

We're going to make this simple and just list the pros and cons of Trading and Selling your car.

Cons of Selling Privately:

- You lose the Tax Break on the car you're buying

- The amount of phone calls and emails to answer can be overwhelming, before you find an actual buyer

- You will constantly have to change your schedule to meet with people that want to see and test drive your car, before you find a buyer

- With all the scams going on out there, you can easily get burned by a buyer (unless they pay you in cash)

- If you do not hold the Title to your car, it can be very difficult to find a buyer

Pros of Selling Privately:

- You'll get more money for your trade

Cons of Trading in Your Car:

- You'll get less than Selling it Privately

Pros of Trading in Your Car:

- You will pay sale tax on the difference of the selling price of the car you are purchasing and the trade allowance

- Hand over the keys and you're done with it

That's it in a nut shell. You just have to weigh out the differences. Although you will get less on trade, the time   and money it saves you can be well worth it.

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Five Overpriced Fuel Efficient Used Cars

Avoid Overpriced Prius, Yaris, Cruze, Corolla and Soul

There are five fuel-efficient used cars you might want to put the brakes on purchasing because their prices are predicted to drop.

KBB.com, according to an article at AutoRemarketing.com, has advised dealers that these five specific fuel-efficient models that could be in line for a significant price correction. The reason is softening fuel prices.

The models that made the KBB list are the 2010 Toyota Prius, 2011 Toyota Yaris, 2011 Chevrolet Cruze, 2011 Toyota Corolla and 2011 Kia Soul. The instant advice to take away from this new is in two month's time there are going to be some good bargains on these models as dealers become desperate to move these vehicles off their lots.


Why is that? It's expensive to finance unsold vehicles for a long time. No savvy buyer in his or her right mind is going to pay a dealership what it needs to make a profit on a used car listed above.


Their loss is your gain. That's a little cold hearted to say, because I want the used car industry to thrive, especially at the independent dealer level. However, there's nothing wrong with taking advantages of changing scenarios and that is what will happen with used car dealerships that bought high. They're going to have to sell low.


As has been reported elsewhere, the bloom is off the rose, so to speak, because Americans have horrific short-term memory. Once gas prices start to drop they become less concerned with fuel economy and more concerned with comfort. That's why less fuel-efficient SUVs and crossover utility vehicles are starting to see their sales increase.


KBB's senior market analyst for automotive insights, Alec Gutierrez, told AutoRemarketing.com that his company believes there will be "steep declines" for vehicles that increased in value significantly since the beginning of 2012. Expect the most adjustment in used vehicles selling near the cost of a new car.



The prime example, according to the article, is the 2010 Toyota Prius. Its value, in the last four months has increased $3,000. Used cars just don't increase in value during normal times. They decrease in value.


According to KBB.com figures, as of May 16, the 2010 Toyota Prius has a current auction value equal to 90 percent of its original price. A two-year old vehicle at this point should be worth, at best, 75 percent of its original value.


Buy Low, not High


Let's say, for argument's sake, that a 2010 Toyota Prius was worth $26,000 brand new. At 90% of its value, it's now worth $23,400. It should be more realistically price at $19,500 and below. By that simple estimation, the 2010 Toyota Prius is overvalued right now by almost $4000.



I'm not necessarily a fan of not buying a particular model because it is going to depreciate quickly because most people hold onto used cars beyond their effective depreciation life cycles. (After five years, cars only really depreciate by small amounts annually.)


The 2010 Toyota Prius, if bought right now, is going to fall off a cliff when it comes to depreciation. As KBB has warned dealers, its prices are going to adjust and soon. In a typical scenario, a good used car retains about 50% of its value after five years. That means a 2010 Toyota Prius is going to be worth about $13,000 in three years.



But, let's say you just paid the obscenely high price of $23,000 for one. In three years time, it could have lost $10,000 of its value. That's a huge number if you are financing payments.


It's also a huge concern for insurance reasons. Say, for example, something horrible happens to your 2010 Toyota Prius and it is deemed a total loss after a collision. In three years time, on a five-year loan, you would still have a substantial chunk of money left to pay but a car that is worth a lot less.



Here is what you can do as a smart consumer if you want to buy one of those cars. Instantly assume they are overvalued. Ask the Dealer how long has this car been sitting on your lot?


An honest dealer will tell you. A less scrupulous one may want to mask that fact to avoid looking desperate. (Never let the customer see you sweat!) However, you can sometimes determine from reading a Carfax Report when the dealership acquired the vehicle. If it was an Auction vehicle, it will be listed as being sold at auction in the title history.


Has the car been on the lot more than 60 days? There's no reason to pay what the dealer wants. If you have your financing arranged ahead of time, go in with an offer 10% below the asking price. The dealer might just cave to your wishes and, with your financing already arranged, might get you an even better interest rate.

Keep your eyes on used 2010 Toyota Prius, 2011 Toyota Yaris, 2011 Chevrolet Cruze, 2011 Toyota Corolla and 2011 Kia Soul models. They're priced high now but should be dropping soon. By the way, all are good cars. The Yaris may be yawn inducing but it's still a good car.

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10 Reasons to Get a Carfax Report

With a CarFax report, you will be able to confirm the automobile's VIN number, year, make and model. This is important in making sure that you are purchasing the automobile as it is being presented to you for sale.

With a CarFax report, you can find out if the automobile has ever been flooded or has been repaired for any flood damage. This is very important, especially if purchased in areas that are prone to flooding, hurricane damage, etc. Even if an area is not prone to flood damage, there is always the possibility that an automobile has traveled through high water or been exposed to it at some point.

With a CarFax report, you can find out if the automobile has ever been involved in any type of car accident and, if so, what damages were reported. Every day, automobile accidents occur and the damages often require extensive repairs. It is important for you to know whether or not the automobile you are considering purchasing has ever had any type of damage.

With a CarFax report, you can find out if the automobile has ever suffered from any type of fire damage and, if so, what repairs were made to correct the damages.

With a CarFax report, you can make sure the automobile has a clear title and does not have any liens. This is very important when you purchase an automobile, home or even raw land. If you purchase something that does not have a clear title, you are basically throwing your money away. If you receive a clear title, you will have full ownership of the car and will be able to legally resell it in the future.

A CarFax report will confirm the number of miles to be the original miles as noted on the CarFax report. The sad, but honest, truth is that there are some individuals who attempt to falsify an automobile's actual miles in order to collect a higher sale price.

With a CarFax report, an individual can learn how many previous owners the car has had. This is important in considering why the car has had multiple owners, if it has, and may be a sign that something is wrong. An automobile with only one owner is more likely to be reliable as opposed to one that has been shuffled amongst multiple owners.

With a CarFax report, you can find out what, if any, repairs have been made on the automobile. This is important in considering what type of recurring problem there may be with the automobile or whether or not you are purchasing a lemon. A car that has had excessive repairs, either in various parts or in one particular area, may be an indication that you should be prepared to spend some time at the repair shop as the new owner.

And finally, a CarFax report provides overall peace of mind in knowing that you did the research and are not relying on the seller to provide accurate information. An informed buyer is a smart one.

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10 Things Your Mechanic Won't Tell You

1. “You might be in the wrong garage.”
There are many choices as to where consumers can take their car when it’s in need of maintenance or repair. Those include going to the car dealer, a department or chain-store franchise, or an independent mechanic at a service station. Where you should go depends on what type of repair your car needs and its age and condition. But in most cases, mechanics in each type of repair shop may try to convince you that they’re the best ones for the job.

Work under factory warranty should go to the dealer, says Mark Eskeldson, founder of CarInfo.com, which provides consumer-protection advice to car buyers and owners. That’s where you’ll find some of the best-trained mechanics who are trained to fix problems that pop up with new car models, he says.

But because dealer overhead is high, expect to pay top dollar for repairs not covered under your warranty.

Before leaving your car at an independent automotive shop (or any repair facility) find out if the mechanic working on your car is ASE Certified ( or factory certified) on the component or system that needs fixing. Don't let some junior mechanic work on your car that is not certified or qualified on that particular repair area. He could do more harm than good.

Chain and department-store shops often advertise free services for routine services like oil changes or tune-ups, but beware if their mechanic insists that your car needs major repairs after he inspects it. Get a second opinion to confirm it isn’t a ploy to get you to spend more money, he says.

2. “My fancy certificates might not mean very much.”

The National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence (ASE) certifies auto technicians (or mechanics) in eight specialties, including brakes, electrical systems, engines, and heating and air-conditioning, ect... Although auto mechanics must have two years of hands-on work experience and pass an extensive standardized exam to become certified, an ASE sticker in your repair shop’s window is no guarantee that the work will be done properly or that all of the technicians employed are all ASE certified, or if they are Certified in the repair are you need says Tony Molla, a spokesman for ASE.

Most repair shops hire both certified and uncertified mechanics. And only 33% of ASE mechanics are certified in all eight specialties and earn “Master Technician” status. Be sure to ask who is going to do the work on your car and what areas that person is certified in. Also check to see when the certification expires. ASE-certified mechanics are supposed to recertify every five years.

In addition, you may look for repair shops that are endorsed by AAA with work being guaranteed for a minimum of 12 months or 12,000 miles. These facilities must meet rigorous standards and guarantee their work for all customers, says Robert Sinclair, a spokesman for AAA New York. Also, AAA agrees to arbitrate disputes between its members and approved repair shops.

3. “I make unnecessary repairs.”

You drop off your car at a mechanic’s shop for routine maintenance or a repair only to find out that the mechanic made additional repairs that you didn’t request but that he deemed “necessary.”

Recommendations for unnecessary maintenance are a common complaint among consumers, says Sherry Mehl, the chief of the Bureau of Automotive Repair (BAR) in California. (The bureau works to protect consumers within the automotive repair marketplace.) For instance, shops can suggest flushing a radiator or fluids, which can harm some cars, she says. (Car owners’ manuals specify if flushing will help.)

Consumer complaints about auto parts and repairs are on the rise, according to the Federal Trade Commission. For 2009, the FTC has 2,689 complaints, up from 2,438 in 2008 and 1,698 in 2007. It was dishonest practices that cost Santa Ana-based EZ Lube $5 million in a civil settlement for unfair business practices in December 2007. An investigation by the Orange County district attorney’s office “uncovered a pattern of unfair and deceptive business practices at several EZ Lube locations where consumers were being sold unneeded parts and services,” according to the DA’s statement. As part of the settlement, EZ Lube agreed to pay restitution to anyone with a legitimate claim over the past five years. (When reached for comment, a spokesperson for EZ Lube referred us to a company’s press release on the matter, which reads: “It is our goal to make sure all of our customers are protected by the highest safeguards in the industry when they bring their vehicle to one of our stores.”)

“Most unnecessary repairs are due to the fact that cars are so incredibly complex that often a shop ends up trying a few things in order to solve the problem,” says Jack Gillis, author of "The Car Book" and director of public affairs for the Consumer Federation of America, a consumer-advocacy organization. When a repair baffles a mediocre mechanic, he or she will probably keep replacing suspect parts until the problem is finally solved. Many of the parts replaced may have nothing to do with the problem, but you’ll probably end up paying for them anyway, he says.

4. “You might be charged for work that hasn’t been done.”

It happens on purpose. It happens by mistake. Either way, it happens. Let’s say you drop your car off at the garage to have the fluids, belts and filters replaced. But the garage is busy, the mechanic who works on your car is a new hire, and the station manager hasn’t left very clear instructions. As a result, the belts never get replaced, but you drive away thinking you’ve got brand-new ones. When Gillis worked at the Department of Transportation in the 1980s, he says it was one of the most common complaints, and that it remains so today.

A good way to avoid the problem of work that was supposed to have been done but wasn’t: Ask to see the old parts. In some cases, mechanics can give you the parts they’ve removed from your car. (One exception is if the warranty requires they be sent back to the manufacturer.) “If you have a concern that a part was replaced when it shouldn’t have been, you should ask for it back,” says Mehl. (Rules vary by state; in California, for example, mechanics can give parts to customers.) California residents can contact BAR, and it’ll send a representative to examine the customer’s invoice and the part. “If it’s not faulty, we can take disciplinary action,” she says.

In addition, Gillis suggests taping to your steering wheel an itemized list of all the repairs you want made. That way the mechanic who works on it — in most cases not the person you talked to when you drove in — will have direct instructions from you.

5. “You should get a second opinion.”

Getting a second opinion is a must for major repairs, since it’s a competitive business and prices can be all over the map. You may have to pay a few dollars more for an extra estimate, but the hundreds you could potentially save by shopping carefully will more than make up for it.

When exactly is it time to seek out a second opinion? A general rule of thumb is that you should get more than one mechanic’s take on a repair if you expect to pay more than $200 for it, says Gillis. If your mechanic calls in the middle of a job with a laundry list of additional repairs, that’s also a good time to seek another opinion of the problem and an estimate for the cost of fixing it. Beware of the mechanic who tries to stop you by saying that he’s already taken apart the engine or the transmission. If you were able to drive the car into the shop, you should be able to drive it back out for a second opinion.

6. “Rebuilt parts can be as good as new — and less expensive.”

When it comes time to replace a part on your car, you can save money by buying it used. But often you must specify that you want a remanufactured part or the mechanic will likely install an expensive new one.

However, recycled parts aren’t right for every replacement. “Customers may save some money, but buying a recycled part isn’t so simple,” says Chuck Sulkala, executive director of the National Auto Body Council and owner of a Boston-based car body shop. “You need to make sure it provides exactly what you’re looking for and what you need.” For example, a customer who needs to replace a car’s fender and gets a salvaged one could find that its moldings or side lights are different, he says, even if the fender comes from the same car model that’s just two or three years older. Sulkala says: “You can use it, but what good is the molding going to do if it’s in the wrong location?”

7. “Your car is too high-tech for me."

Cars have become incredibly sophisticated over the past 10 years, but some mechanics haven’t caught up. Car dealers are required by most manufacturers to buy the expensive diagnostic equipment needed to pinpoint the source of computer problems. That means their technicians are more likely to be factory-trained in these complicated repairs.

Still, not all mechanics are properly trained in the computerized systems found in most cars today, says Gillis. That could be because independent car mechanics have to bear most of the costs when upgrading their technology. Independent car technicians must make the same investment in sophisticated diagnostic equipment if they expect to be able to diagnose and repair these complex cars, says Molla.

If you drive an expensive European car, consider checking out specialty shops that focus on one or two foreign makes. Mechanics at these outfits are often as well or better trained than those at the dealer and they usually charge less. Meanwhile, most Japanese and Korean models are serviceable by independent repair shops, says Molla.

8. “I may send your car somewhere else for repairs — which will cost you.”

Let’s say you’re taking your car in for several repairs at once — replacing the battery and headlamps, changing the oil, and repairing the fuel-injection system. Some independent shop may not have the facilities or expertise to do them all in-house, and if so, it may pay another shop to do all or part of the work. This kind of auto-repair outsourcing can add significantly to the final price tag on the job, since your mechanic will have to charge a premium for the work he subbed out.

“If I have to carry all of the equipment in order to fix everything on a vehicle, it would make no sense,” says Sulkala, especially if he doesn't do that type of work on a daily basis. For example, he’s not asked to upholster cars often, so when a customer requests that he says, “I’ll bring it someone I know and trust who has that expertise.” As a result, the customer might incur additional costs. But, he adds, the price charged is at a discounted wholesale rate and not at a retail door rate.

When you take your car in for repairs, ask if all the work will be done on-site before you agree to anything. If your mechanic tells you he needs to subcontract some of it, tell him not to do those repairs and take the car yourself to a shop that can handle the rest of the job.

9. “The less you know about your warranty, the happier I am.”

Confusion about your warranty is good for a repair shop. After all, it’s not in an independent mechanic’s best interest to tell you when a repair is under warranty because if he’s mum, he can charge you for it. Dealerships, meanwhile, make little money on warranty repairs, so they look to get as much non-warranty work as possible.

The way dealership warranties often work is that if you get the car repaired somewhere else and something goes wrong as a result of that repair, the cost of fixing the problem will no longer be covered by the warranty. So say you get an oil change at a quick-service franchise shop and the mechanic does something wrong that eventually damages your engine; the dealer doesn’t have to honor your warranty when your engine is finally repaired, says Gillis. But some dealers like to take it a step further by making it seem as if you have to bring your car to them for all repairs or risk losing your warranty protection.

Don’t fall for it. Taking routine work such as oil changes, tire rotations, and even your 10,000-mile checkups to the less-expensive chains won’t jeopardize your warranty in most cases. Nor will emergency repairs that would normally be covered under the warranty. Just be sure to keep all your receipts, says Gillis. That way, if the dealer tries to claim you have an engine problem because you failed to get an oil change, for example, you can prove otherwise.

10. “You have more power here than you think.”

If you feel you’ve been wronged by an auto mechanic, you can take action. File a complaint with your state’s Better Business Bureau and the attorney general’s office. This will help unsuspecting consumers who check on the reputations of potential car mechanics to avoid shoddy repairmen.

In some states, you have even more recourse; in California, BAR will attempt to resolve each complaint it receives. To check if your state has a similar agency, contact your state highway department. Finally, if your auto-repair garage is endorsed by the AAA, contact the organization. If your complaint is egregious enough, or joined by others, the outfit may lose the AAA’s seal of approval. “This is an exceedingly rare event,” says Sinclair. “Shops work hard to obtain and retain their AAA certification and would bend over backwards to correct any problems that may lead to a loss of AAA’s ‘seal of approval’.”


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Acura Says Seinfeld/Leno Commercial Did the Job

CHICAGO -- Is Acura happy with the response to the Super Bowl commercial featuring Jerry Seinfeld and Jay Leno vying for the upcoming NSX sports car?
You betcha.

Moments after the Super Bowl ended, Acura's Web site crashed.

Mike Accavitti, American Honda's chief marketing officer, estimates that the Web site was down for about 10 minutes because of a 3,000 percent increase in traffic.

Accavitti said the ad on Acura's Web site received 16 million views from Jan. 30, the day it was posted, to Feb. 6, the day after the Super Bowl. He was interviewed Tuesday during an Acura press event prior to the opening of the Chicago Auto Show.

In the humorous commercial, Seinfeld and Leno try to bribe the man who holds the rights to the first 2015 NSX supercar.

The NSX concept debuted last month at the Detroit auto show and created quite a buzz. Sales begin in about three years.

Why draw attention to a car that's three years away from production?

"This direction you are seeing with Acura isn't by accident," Accavitti said. "This is a well thought-out, laser-focused plan that we have to get Acura noticed and get Acura on people's shopping lists because we have these great new products coming out."

The redesigned 2013 RDX crossover and the newest edition to the Acura line, the compact 2013 ILX sedan, will be in showrooms this spring.

"The traffic driving that we did with the commercial delivered the results we were looking for," Accavitti said. Besides the NSX, RDX and ILX, people coming to the Web site were clicking on Acura's other models, too.

Said Accavitti: "People are talking about Acura who never talked about Acura, and that was our intent."

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5 Things That Will Hurt a Used Car's Resale Value

Not being prepared when it comes time to sell your used car will hurt its resale value. There are five things you can do that could earn you hundreds of additional dollars on the price of a used car you are selling.

1. Not Keeping a Used Car's Maintenance Records

You should really keep every maintenance record from the first time you buy a new car. The same is true if you have bought a used car. Keep all the maintenance records for it from the time of purchase. Savvy used car buyers are going to know when you bought your car based on a purchase of its vehicle history from either Carfax or Auto Check. Not being able to produce maintenance records could indicate you don't maintain your used car, which is going to lower its value.

2. Any Sign of Children When You Are Selling It

It's true - most people associate children with messy vehicles. It's almost impossible to keep them clean whether it's because of misplaced toys that melt or food and drink spills. Get your car professionally detailed before selling it if you have a family. Kids are great, but most folks don't want to own a used car where children have lived.

3. Selling a Used Car with a Mechanical Defect

There's a legal axiom that a lawyer never asks a question in court without knowing the answer ahead of time. Yet, people will sell their used cars without knowing its true mechanical condition. There are a couple of options here. The first would be buying a CarMD. You're going to want one as you look for used cars. Start off by using it on your own used car. It will give you a report on potential problems. Don't be surprised if prospective owners show up with one. The second thing you can do is have your used car inspected. A certified mechanic will come to your home and inspect your car and tell you what's wrong with it. You can then decide if you want to get the work done, but at least you will know what problems your used car might have.

4. Customizing Your Used Car

Let's say, for example, you own a Dodge Neon. You've invested a lot of money into it for a huge spoiler as well as large wheels, a souped exhaust system and a special suspension. You then go to sell it and find an extremely small market for the car. "But," you sputter, "it's in perfect shape. Why aren't people buying it?" You've created a niche vehicle. And, within that niche of people who might buy it, you've narrowed things even further to people who want to buy a car customized exactly how you like it. It's difficult to sell these types of vehicles if you are in a hurry. Strip the car as much as possible when you are selling it back to its original parts if you have them.

5. Posting Videos Involving Your Used Car

Here's something most used car sellers don't realize: smart shoppers will Google your name and car make and model just to see what pops up. So, your buddy videotaped you racing another friend in an industrial park. That's going to show up on a search engine. Same thing is true if you were driving the car and arrested by the police. A DWI article will include your name, as well as the type of vehicle you were driving when stopped.


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Top 10 Most Stolen Used Vehicles for 2010

Here's an interesting article we wanted to share, written by Keith Griffin from About.com .  Who would have thought?

"Here's something to keep in mind when used car shopping: the most stolen vehicles in 2010 were all used cars.


That should make some of you say, "Well, duh. Brand new cars are only stolen off new car dealer lots. Otherwise all stolen vehicles are used cars."

I know but what's interesting about the report on most stolen vehicles in 2010 from the National Insurance Crime Bureau is how used some of these vehicles are. The youngest on the list of most stolen vehicles is seven years old. The oldest is 20 years old.

Without further ado, here is the list of the most stolen vehicles for 2010:

1.1994 Honda Accord

2.1995 Honda Civic

3.1991 Toyota Camry

4.1999 Chevrolet Pickup (Full Size)

5.1997 Ford F150 Series/Pickup

6.2004 Dodge Ram

7.2000 Dodge Caravan

8.1994 Acura Integra

9.2002 Ford Explorer

10.1999 Ford Taurus

I actually owned a 1995 Honda Civic for a few years. I'm glad it escaped the notice of car thieves where I live in Connecticut. That would have really bummed me out.

This is the first time since 2002 that domestics dominate the list. For those who track such things, three of the vehicles are pickups, five are sedans, one is a minivan and one is an SUV. Surprised the figure isn't higher on SUVs seeing as gas prices were lower in 2010.

As the NICB points out, older used cars are popular with thieves for their parts, which is why they get chopped up and not taken for joy rides. They're also easier to steal because modern cars have more devices to defeat thieves but no used car is truly invincible, especially when being stolen for parts.

The NCIB has lots of information about stolen vehicles. Head on over to its website if you are curious."
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Tire Buying Tips: What To Consider When Purchasing Tires

Walking into a tire store can be, and often is to say the least confusing for those of us who don’t buy tires that often. For the most part, as long as there are four tires on the car, most people are satisfied.

But when taking a stronger interest in the type of tires that are mounted on a car, the whole area of “tires” opens up, and we find there’s more to this tire buying than just bringing the car in to a tire shop and having four new tires put on.

A tire is an important functional part of any vehicle. Outside of the engine and its various parts, without the tire, no car, no truck, or no bus will get from point A to point B or any other point for that matter.

Sometimes we can’t always base our decision to buy a tire based on the name of the tire if it is a well known brand, or because the price is in a higher bracket than other selections of tires. A little homework will help us make a wiser decision when purchasing a tire.

First off the U.S. Government rates tires according to safety and mileage and by learning what these specifications are will help us decide what is best for our needs. Treadware traction, and heat resistance are some of the factors that should be seriously considered when making a purchase. Tire dealers can and should provide this information to the discerning consumer.

Treadware gives the expected mileage. This is shown by numbers, i.e. 300, 400, 500, etc. The higher the number, the more the expected mileage.

Traction grades provides a basis on how well tires will stop on a wet surface. “A” Grade of course being the better tire, thereby stopping in a shorter distance than Grade “B. We can see here that by purchasing the better grade, if we live in a climate where rain is a factor, we are better off paying a bit more by buying the higher-grade tire.

Grading a tire by “Heat Resistance” is also an important consideration, especially for those who live in the warmer climates. Again, deciding on a better grade will in the long run prevent driving on a tire that may not be suitable or does not wear well in the hotter climates.

Tires are also rated by speed. Checking the ‘”owner’s manual” will provide that information, ensuring that the manufacturer’s suggested requirements are kept in mind when making the purchase.

Also, when having these tires mounted keep in mind that some stores may charge extra for balancing and mounting, thereby upping the total cost of the tire. This happened to me and the "great" sale did not turn out so great.

Other considerations: When driving on mostly paved roads and highways as opposed to off-road, a smooth road tire (aka street tire) should be a consideration.

When driving equally on paved road, highways, and off roads, then an all-terrain tire should be a consideration.

When driving mostly off-road, and occasionally on paved roads/highway, then an “off-road” tire should be considered.

Again, doing one’s homework, becoming well informed, knowing what to look for, what is required by a manufacturer in terms of their own specifications for buying tires will ensure that a correct decision is made when purchasing this product.


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Lane Departure Warning Technology

Have you ever looked away from the road to your radio, only to be blasted of another driver's horn as you drifted? It happens to many drivers. Fatigue, medications, and distractions can make even the best drivers do dangerous things. Don't you wish there was a way to be alerted when this happens―horn blasts aside?

There is. It's called lane departure warning (LDW) technology.

LDW History

After first making an appearance on European commerical trucks, American drivers saw LDW technology in 2004. Iteris licensed it to Valeo Management Services, and Nissan Motors unveiled its 2005 Infiniti FX and 2006 Infiniti M45―the first two models to come with LDW―at the April 2004 New York Auto show.

How It Works

LDW uses tiny cameras, mounted on rearview mirrors, to watch the lane markings. This information is fed to an onboard computer, which then warns the driver with a combination of lights, steering wheel vibration, and perhaps an alarm that the car is drifting out of the lane. It's so sophisticated that it works under any weather conditions ― that's why it's taken so long to come to market.

If the driver happens to forget to use a turn signal, the LDW still goes off. Don't use this an excuse to leave your turn signals on forever―systems come with an off/on switch.

It's by no means foolproof. Muddy roads or freshly repaved streets with no lines stump the system.

Which Cars Have LDW

More cars come out with LDW every year. Lexus, BMW, Nissan Infiniti, and GM (Cadillac and Buick) all have versions in their 2008 models.

LDW may appear under a slightly different name, like Nissan Infiniti's "Lane Departure Prevention," or Lexus's "Lane-Keeping Assist."

Each may work a bit differently. Some only have warnings, and some actually allow the car to brake and move the car back into the lane for you if you ignore the system.

It sounds like something the Batmobile has, but LDW is meant to be only another helpful accident-prevention tool. It won't drive the car for you. Don't try to travel across the country in 48 hours and expect the LDW to save your life.


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4 Ugly Cars Only Their Mothers Could Love

This is an article, written by Tom Ripley for 'Driving Today', that brings back memories!

"For reasons known only to God and the executive committees that approved them, ugly cars exist in nature. And in spite of their often ungainly and grotesque countenances, somebody loves them. So let’s celebrate that unconditional love by taking a closer look at the pantheon of cars only their mother could love.

Ugly Car No. 1: AMC Pacer

Sure, this is the go-to ugly car, but it is the go-to because it was so ugly. Looking something like an upside-down cereal bowl balancing on toothpicks, the Pacer’s body was way too big for its undersized tires. To that, you can add positively enormous side glass, windshield and backlight, allowing you a very good look at the idiot who bought it. ­Inside, the over-long six-cylinder engine intrudes into the passenger compartment because when AMC designed it, they thought it would be equipped with a more compact, rotary engine.

Ugly Car No. 2: Renault Fuego

Some of the most beautiful classics of the ’30s came from French design studios, but by the early 1980s (and some would say well before), the French had lost their touch. The Fuego was a weak attempt at a sports coupe, kind of a limp-wristed Mustang saddled with a tiny engine and a lackluster profile. And as with so many ugly cars, the closer you look at it, the worse it gets. Details like the undersized tires and black body stripe did nothing but add to the overall malaise. Inside, the Fuego was an ergonomic disaster.

Ugly Car No. 3: Yugo GV

Malcolm Bricklin’s attempt to use geopolitical realities to bring a price leader to the U.S. market failed largely because the car -- Yugo GV (for great value) -- was one of the worst vehicles ever foisted on the American public. In this car, as your mother once told you, ugly is as ugly does. The 1.1-liter engine that claimed to offer 58 horsepower was feeble, and the drivetrain had so much slop in it that if you accelerated, the car pulled to the left, and if you let off the accelerator, the car pulled to the right. Fit-and-finish inside and out were in the “you’ve got to be kidding” category.

Ugly Car No. 4: Pontiac Aztek

When you see a Pontiac Aztek on the road -- something that is still possible though unfortunate -- you have to wonder how a group of sighted auto executives approved the vehicle’s design. Some cars have hidden flaws, but the Aztek hides nothing. It is flawed everywhere: awkward profile, ungainly front and rear ends, plus loose, flapping-in-the-breeze trim. From the driver’s seat, the Aztek wasn’t nearly as bad as from the outside, but that’s like getting comfortable in the belly of a whale. The mundane 3.4-liter V-6 offered just 185 horsepower, not sufficient to get the Aztek out of our sight nearly quick enough."


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25 Facts About Tampa Bay AutoNetwork - Tampa Used Car Dealer

1. Family Owned & Operated

2. BBB Accredited

3. 'A' Rated BBB Member

4. eBay Motors Platinum Level PowerSellers

5. 100% Poistive Feedback on eBay Motors

6. Carfax Certified Dealer

7. Favorite Place on Google

8. No Commision's

9. World Wide Customer Base

10. World Wide Shipping

11. Disocunted Shipping Rates

12. Preferred Credit Union Dealer

13. Treating People the Way We Want to be Treated

14. Built on Honesty & Integrity

15. Selling Serviced, Inspected, and Detailed Vehicles

16. Offering Local Trade-Ins @ Dealer Wholesale Prices

17. Specializing in Hard to Find Luxury and Specialty Vehicles: 4 Door Sedans, 2 Door Coupes, Roadsters, Convertibles, Sport Utility, Specialty Trucks....

18. Personalized Service

19. Phenomenal Communication

20. Provider of Nationwide Extended Service Plans

21. Unique, Hassle-Free Experience

22. Honoring Promises

23. Building Trust

24. Truth in Advertising

25. Conveniently Located
 
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How To Clean & Protect Your Convertible Top

The convertible automobile is a combination of beauty, performance and superior engineering. We all know why we are attracted to the sleek masterful design of a convertible, they are pleasing to the eye, and fun to drive.

Unlike coupes or sedans convertibles have special care requirements for the delicate convertible top material, whether it is made of fabric or vinyl and they should not be cared for like the painted surfaces of your car.

The longevity, performance and looks of your convertible top depends on regular maintenance which consists of proper cleaning and protection for your specific convertible top type. A simple hand wash or drive through the car wash is not enough and could result in premature deterioration which not only causes your convertible top to look bad but it could cause it to leak or lead to a costly replacement!

Cleaning and protecting your convertible top is very important when it comes to the maintenance of your car. This article will take you through simple steps that will keep your convertible top looking good and performing well for years to come.

IS MY CONVERTIBLE TOP FABRIC OR VINYL?

The first step in the care of your convertible top is to determine if your convertible top is made of fabric, also known as cloth, canvas or if the top is made of vinyl. The best way to determine this is to check with your automobile manufacture. Keep in mind, if you are not the original owner, the top could have been replaced with a top made from a different material. This could also have been done by the dealership when it was new so it is best to test your top if you are not absolutely sure of the material. Determining the type of convertible top is very important as you will need to make sure you use the correct cleaner and protectant for your specific convertible top. Using the wrong product can harm your convertible top.

FABRIC OR VINYL CONVERTIBLE TOP TEST

Take about 1/8 teaspoon of water and put it on your convertible top.

Try to rub the water in to the material.

If it starts to soak in, it is more than likely fabric, if it sits on the top and just smears but does not soak in, it is more than likely vinyl.

Another hint for determining if your convertible top is fabric or vinyl is that fabric tops tend to attract fuzzy things like lint, where the vinyl tops do not. If you are still unsure of what your convertible top is made of it is best to get the opinion of a professional.

CLEANING PRODUCTS FOR YOUR CONVERTIBLE TOP

Common household cleaning products can be very harmful to your soft convertible top. Chemicals you should not use on or near your convertible top include ammonia, bleach, detergent, alcohol and vinegar. Detergents, bleach and harsh acids will quickly deteriorate fabric or vinyl, whereas ammonia and alcohol will dry our fabric and cloud vinyl. Using the wrong cleaners can be a costly mistake. Use only products specifically made for cleaning your type of convertible top.

Keeping your convertible top clean is important. If your convertible top is not dirty, just rinse it thoroughly at least once a month with a strong jet of clear water. For fabric convertible tops you can also carefully use a vacuum to extract any loose dirt or dust that settle into the fabric fibers. If your convertible top is dirty use a convertible top cleaner followed by your convertible top protectant. We recommend cleaners specifically designed for convertible tops, as many car wash shampoos contain gloss-enhancers. If a car wash shampoo contains gloss enhancers, the top will absorb them and become a dust magnet.

HOW TO CLEAN YOUR CONVERTIBLE TOP

Fabric, Cloth or Canvas and Vinyl Convertible Top Cleaning:

Always wash convertible tops in the shade, never in direct sunlight.

Always wash the entire convertible top at one time, never spot clean as this will leave rings or spots.

Wet convertible top thoroughly and rinse off any loose dirt.

Spray Convertible Top Cleaner and apply evenly over entire roof then scrub lightly with soft bristle brush.

For difficult soiled areas, spray and let stand for 15 to 20 minutes.

Gently scrub with soft bristle brush.

Rinse thoroughly with water until no remaining foam from Convertible Top Cleaner is observed.

IMPORTANT: CONVERTIBLE TOP MUST BE THOROUGHLY DRY BEFORE USING YOUR CONVERTIBLE TOP PROTECTANT!

IMPORTANCE OF PROTECTING YOUR CONVERTIBLE TOP

Your car's soft convertible top is subjected to the same harsh environmental conditions as the painted surfaces of your car but your convertible top is not as durable as your painted surfaces. We all know that it is important to wax your paint to keep it protected from premature aging. The fabric/cloth or vinyl material that your convertible top is made from, although durable, is more delicate than the painted steel or fiberglass that the body of your car is made from. This is why it is vitally important to protect your convertible top and keep it protected as a part of your maintenance regimen. Unprotected convertible tops will deteriorate leaving them looking bad and even worse, they will start to leak! The worst nightmare of a convertible owner is a leaky convertible top!

IMPORTANT NOTE! About 99% of new convertible tops have stitching along the sides and around glass or plastic window is not treated when it leaves the factory! This is what holds your convertible top together so get it protected IMMEDIATELY!

HOW TO PROTECT YOUR FABRIC CONVERTIBLE TOP

Fabric, Cloth or Canvas Convertible Top Protection:

Start with a clean, completely dry convertible top.

If possible avoid applying protectant on windy days or pull your car inside the garage. Even a light breeze will cause more overspray and will also stir up dirt and dust that will be attracted to your convertible top before the protectant has a chance to dry.

Shake fabric convertible top protectant well before use and several times during application.

Hold can or bottle upright and spray evenly 16-18 inches from material and use a gentle sweeping motion. DO NOT SATURATE!

Allow to Completely Dry 10 minutes or longer between coats, preferably in the sun. Artificial heat can be used to speed drying time. Drying time may vary depending on weather conditions. Your convertible top MUST BE COMPLETELY DRY before applying the next coat of protectant.

Spray up to three light even coats of Fabric Convertible Top Protectant allowing protectant to completely dry between coats.

Use a clean microfiber towel to wipe off any excess overspray on paint, trim or glass.

Apply every 6-8 weeks for maximum UV protection and to protect against the harsh environmental elements.

For Vinyl Convertible Tops use a Vinyl Convertible Top Protectant

HOW TO PROTECT YOUR VINYL CONVERTIBLE TOP

Vinyl Convertible Top Protection:

Start with a clean dry convertible top.

If possible avoid applying protectant on windy days or pull your car inside the garage. Even a light breeze will cause more overspray and will also stir up dirt and dust that will be attracted to your convertible top until the protectant is dry.

Shake vinyl convertible top protectant and spray 8 -12 inches from convertible top.

Spray on using gentle sweeping motions or spray onto clean microfiber towel or applicator and wipe onto vinyl convertible top.

Wipe dry with a clean microfiber towel.

Use a clean microfiber towel to wipe off any excess overspray on paint, trim or glass.

Apply every 4-5 weeks for maximum UV protection and to protect against the harsh environmental elements.

For fabric convertible tops use a Fabric Convertible Top Protectant.

CONVERTIBLE TOP REAR WINDOW CARE

The rigid or flexible rear window on your convertible top is delicate and needs special care too. Many convertibles have flexible rear windows made of a clear vinyl allowing the window to fold. The rigid and flexible clear vinyl rear windows when not properly cared for will scratch, yellow and deteriorate.

It’s fun when your convertible top is down but when it is time to drive with the top up many convertible owners experience foggy windows. This is especially true for new cars. This fog is created by the evaporation of plasticizers which are used in the manufacturing of vinyl to keep it flexible. The plasticizers release through evaporation with the heat of the sun, causing your windows to fog up and turn yellowish if not protected.

CONVERTIBLE TOP REAR WINDOW CLEANING

To keep your convertible top windows crystal clear you need to keep them clean!

Always wash your car in the shade, never in direct sunlight.

Wash the outside of your window with a microfiber wash mitt and your car wash shampoo to remove loose dirt and debris during your normal car wash process.

Dry your entire car as well as your window with a microfiber drying towel.

Spray Plexus Plastic Cleaner, Polish and Protectant directly onto a clean, dry microfiber towel and use to polish and clean your window, inside and out.

Regular use of Plexus Plastic Cleaner, Polish and Protectant will prevent fogging, hazing, yellowing and oxidation which diminishes the plastic's luster, strength and appearance. Plexus Plastic Cleaner, Polish and Protectant also works great on your headlights, taillight lenses and gages.

CONVERTIBLE CAR TOP CARE SUMMARY

Follow this simple maintenance regimen and your convertible top will look good and perform well for years to come!

If your convertible top is not dirty, just rinse it thoroughly at least once a month with a strong jet of clear water. If your convertible top is dirty use a non-detergent-based convertible top cleaner followed by your convertible top protectant. We recommend a convertible top cleaner as many car wash shampoos contain gloss-enhancers. If the car wash shampoo contains gloss enhancers, the top will absorb them and become a dust magnet. For this reason we recommend using cleaners specifically designed for convertible tops.

We recommend a very soft bristle scrub brush for cleaning your convertible top. If you can rub the brush across the back of your hand without scratching your skin, it's safe to use on your convertible top.

Do not use a cloth, chenille-covered sponge or lamb's wool mitt on your convertible top, as they will leave lint.

Do not use your scrub brush on the vinyl window, it will scratch and decrease visibility.

Make sure you rinse the top thoroughly with a stiff stream of water to remove all of the dirt, grime and suds from your convertible top cleaner.

After washing, dry your convertible fabric or vinyl top use a Microfiber Drying Towel. The best method is to use the towel to blot up the water. Do not use a terry cloth towel or diaper to dry your convertible, as they will leave lint on fabric convertible tops. The Microfiber Drying Towels will also work well on your clear vinyl windows.

Keep your convertible top protected like you do your paint. For best results, protect your fabric, cloth or canvas convertible top at least 3-4 times per year and your vinyl convertible top as often as every 4-5 weeks.

Fabric, cloth or canvas convertible tops tend to attract lint, dust, pollen and other things that fly around the air and find home on your convertible top. This can look especially bad on a black convertible top! To keep your convertible top looking sharp, keep a lint roller handy and when your top is dry, just run the roller over the top. You will be surprised how this simple step will bring back that crisp new look.

We hope the information in this article helps you maintain your convertible top so you can get the full enjoyment of owning a convertible without the worries of a costly convertible top replacement.

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Buying a Used Car on the Internet – a New Breed of Shoppers

What about the used car market online? How can consumers quantify the risk they are taking buying a used car sight unseen to make sure it is justified by the savings of such purchase?


Historically, conventional used car buyers have been able to kick its tires, take it for a spin, and haggle over the asking price of the car they like at their local dealer since the invention of the automobile. Because of the internet, a considerable number of these “conventional” used car buyers have found a myriad of ways to harness the power of the ever expanding online automotive resources and tools available at their disposal to make informed buying decisions.

It is from those online savvy buyers that a new breed has emerged - those who buy their used cars online, sight unseen. Although they represent a relatively small portion of the used car buyers, these brave souls see an unmatched advantage and find ways to minimize the risks. But what’s in it for them, one might ask? Simple, actually: selection and price. The internet offers easy access to a vast selection of vehicles worldwide - online car portals, classifieds, conventional dealers with online presence and pure online-only outfits, online used car brokers, to name but a few. Since most of them are looking for a specific vehicle, their chance of finding “the one” is far greater online compared to the confines of their local area.

Needless to say, virtually all of them are looking for a bargain. Our brave souls take risks, but these are justified, at least in their eyes, because of the savings they realize by utilizing the online channel. How do they do it? They, too, are well-armed with the online tools they need to make intelligent buying decisions. Here is how these online tools help them through the decision-making and buying steps of the process.

Fair Market Value

Determining whether a particular car is a bargain is a function of understanding its fair market value given its condition in the context of the current supply and demand. For the non-economists, of course, there are a number of excellent online market valuation sources available. Kelley Blue Book, NADAGuides, Edmunds.com are some of the most widely used car pricing providers. They all base estimates on a large number of recorded transactions and provide appraisal adjustments for the year, make, model, mileage, options, condition and even local market trends. As their appraisal algorithms differ slightly from each other, the estimates may vary, so checking more than one source is recommended. There are three major price levels: trade-in (or wholesale), private party and retail. Trade-in is what one would expect to get from a dealer for one’s used car – it is the lowest of the three averages, but it’s important to know as a baseline. Private party is what one would expect to get if one sells a car to another person, and retail is what one would pay for that car at a used car dealership.

Third Party Vehicle History Reports

In addition to the seller’s honest word and availability of service records our prudent innovators tap into the same third party vehicle history report providers the rest of the used car buyers use. CARFAX and Experian’s AutoCheck, initially serving the automotive professionals only, have been available to the general public for a number of years now. For $24.99 CARFAX offers 30 days and AutoCheck offers 60 days of unlimited vehicle history reports. These provide extensive reporting on the vehicles’ recorded history: date and type of registration and renewal events, as well as checking for recorded incidents, odometer rollbacks, junk, salvage, rebuilt titles, insurance loss, theft, lemon buybacks, etc. Many dealers realize the convincing power of stating the recorded facts and now offer free vehicle history reports for the cars they sell.

Car Inspections

Independent vehicle appraisal/inspection services with online presence have also seen a boost in their business. For $99.95, CARCHEX offers to give any automobile a 155-point pre-purchase auto inspection almost anywhere in the USA. Not too high a price for peace of mind, especially if it can save one from having to deal with surprise repairs. For half of this amount, one can find a mechanic in the local directory who can check out the car and even take it for a test drive on one's behalf and then fax a detailed report. Nevertheless, some of the more thrifty buyers have found ways to save themselves the nominal fees mechanics charge without depriving themselves of the peace of mind of a pre-sale inspection. Say, I live in Boston and happened to find a 1974 BMW 2002tii that I really wanted all the way in San Diego. Now, I would definitely want the car inspected prior to buying it. My thrifty side, however, wants to avoid the $150 fee a local company would charge me to inspect the vehicle. The solution? I would ask a fellow member of the BMW enthusiast community who lives in San Diego to take a look at the car for me. There are plenty of BMW forum members that would be more than happy to offer their time and expertise to a fellow east coast bimmerphile in need.

Shipping

There is a sea of car shipping companies that would gladly bring our pioneers their newly acquired vehicles home at a reasonable price. One example, Dependable Auto Shippers operate a fleet of state-of-the-art, satellite tracked vehicle shipping transporters, which allow one to track one’s car while it's on its way much like one would track a package. Yet, a healthy number of this new breed of used cars buyers opt for driving their new purchase home on their own instead. It’s cheaper, it’s faster, and admittedly, it’s much more exciting. Sellers specializing in online sales of this kind have also adapted to accommodate the demands of this new kind of used car buyer. Airport pickups for our weary yet eager buyers are more or less industry standard, these days. Sellers specializing exclusively in online sales, providing a hot meal for their ‘guests’ at the family table before they depart on their voyage home, is not unheard of.

Although buying a used car online sight unseen is not for the faint of heart, it is a growing phenomenon, which if executed carefully, could be a very rewarding experience for all parties involved.


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Seller or Trader.... Which Are You?

Automobiles are one of the few things in life you can sell yourself or trade in when you decide to upgrade. After all, when was the last time your local appliance store gave you a few bucks for your old washing machine when you bought a new one?

So what's the best way to get rid of your old car? Should you sell it yourself or settle for a dealer trade-in? It depends on what your vehicle has to offer and the payoff you want.


"Trade-in is prepackaged food. It's not as good as homemade, but it is convenient," says Mark Perleberg, lead auto expert with NADAguides.com.

"Selling it yourself is like a home-cooked meal. It takes more effort."

That extra effort, however, can boost your profit.

The case for selling

Selling your old car takes more time and know-how, but you can potentially get more money than when trading it in.

That's because you cut out the middleman, the dealer who must spend money to advertise and spruce up your car before he resells it at a profit. The dealer considers those costs before arriving at the amount he'll give you for your old auto.

A dealer's cut of the profit is what prompts many car owners to opt for self-selling. But remember, you're then going to face many of the same issues that the car dealer would.

If your vehicle is older or in less-than-pristine shape, you'll probably have to get it detailed to make it attractive to buyers. You may even have to spend money on repairs.

You also have to consider your time investment in marketing the vehicle and showing it to prospective buyers, which would most likely be on weekends or evenings.

If you do decide to sell, realistically assess your auto's marketability. Charlie Vogelheim, former executive editor of the automobile price guide Kelley Blue Book, notes that selling a Toyota, a popular brand, is a lot easier than trying to market a Daewoo.

Location also comes into marketing play. A two-wheel drive sport utility vehicle might sell quickly in Florida, but will be shunned in harsher climes where four-wheel drive is a winter-driving necessity. Sales appeal can even extend to color. "White, silver and black are popular colors," Vogelheim says. "Purple is not."

When your car does sell, you'll have to orchestrate payment. No personal checks, please, but what about a cashier's check from the buyer? How about monthly payments?

"You have to decide what type of payment you'll accept, which adds to what some people might call the hassle part (of selling a car)," says Vogelheim.

Another hassle is the paperwork you'll need to complete to ensure that ownership is transferred correctly. Do you have the title? Do you know what your state requires when a car is sold to another consumer?

Benefits of Trading:

Sales Tax savings is one. The allowance you get for the Trade-In will come off of the selling price of the vehicle you are buying, in turn, reducing the Sales Tax amount.  Another is it's hassle-free. No phone calls and rearranging your schedule to meet people that don't show up.

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Auto Sales Rise in January 2010

DETROIT — Toyota's auto sales fell 16 percent in January, a month in which it recalled millions of vehicles and halted sales of several models. Most other automakers reported higher sales and looked for opportunities to snatch sales from the troubled Japanese automaker.


Automakers expected sales to improve over January 2009, when they dipped to a 26-year low due to the tough economy.

General Motors said its January sales rose 14 percent because of higher fleet and crossover vehicle sales. Crossovers are SUV-like in size but sit on a car instead of a truck frame. Ford Motor Co., meanwhile, saw sales rise 25 percent on higher fleet sales, while Nissan's rose 16 percent, thanks to higher demand for sedans like the Versa, Sentra and Maxima. Hyundai's sales rose 24 percent as sales of the newly redesigned Tucson sport utility vehicle doubled.

Chrysler fell 8 percent on declining sales of Ram trucks and Jeeps, while Honda's sales slipped 5 percent on weaker SUV and crossover demand.

Toyota said on Jan. 26 it would suspend sales of the Camry sedan, its top-selling vehicle, and seven other cars and trucks following a recall over sticky accelerator pedals that could cause sudden acceleration.

"There is no doubt that the stop sale, which was put in place last week, impacted our sales," said Bob Carter, Toyota's group vice president and general manager.

Car-buying Web site Edmunds.com predicted Toyota's U.S. market share would drop to 14.7 percent in January, its lowest level since March 2006.

Showing how quickly the newer, leaner GM can react, it offered zero percent financing and other incentives to Toyota drivers last week. Ford also offered incentives to Toyota drivers who trade in vehicles.

"This was an opportunity to help customers who are truly concerned about their personal safety," she said.

George Pipas, Ford's top sales analyst, said he did not see evidence that Ford was taking buyers from Toyota. Pipas said much of Ford's sales increase came from a jump in sales to rental car companies, governments and other large fleet buyers. Ford said fleet sales jumped more than 150 percent over January 2009, an indication that the credit crunch was lifting and businesses could spend on fleets again.


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Understand Used Car Salvage Titles

As you shop for a used car, you might come across the phrase “salvage title” in a used car advertisement. The price is going to seem right and you’re really going to want to buy it. Just make sure you act with your brain and not your heart. There are a lot of things to consider before you can understand used car salvage titles. 

We're not here to say used car salvage titles are automatically a bad idea, but make sure you know what you’re getting into before purchasing a used car with a salvage title.

Here are four things you absolutely have to do before even considering buying a vehicle with a salvage title:


•Understand What a Salvage Title Is


•Get a CarFax report

•Get a Qualified Inspection

•Weigh the savings vs. future costs
 
Understand What a Salvage Title Is


In almost all cases, salvage title is given to any vehicle that has sustained damage worth 75% or more of its value. For example, if you drive a 2002 Honda Civic worth $9415 and it suffers $7061 in damage in a collision, it’s going to be branded with a title stamped “salvage.” In other words, it’s not considered fit to drive. Some states also call this a junk title.

According to carfax.com, the following 11 states also use salvage titles to identify stolen vehicles: Arizona, Florida, Georgia, Illinois, Maryland, Minnesota, New Jersey, New Mexico, New York, Oklahoma, and Oregon.

As mentioned, requirements are going to vary by state. In Florida, a car has to be damaged to 80% of its value before the accident. Vehicles in Minnesota are considered salvaged when they are declared "repairable total loss" by an insurance company, were worth at least $5,000 before the damage or are less than six years old.

A $4,000 car cannot be deemed salvage in Minnesota, which is a bad thing. Buyer beware when buying older cars from this state (or states with similar requirements). It makes poorer people more susceptible to unsafe vehicles.

The Arizona Motor Vehicle Division sums it up well with this statement: “Needless to say, there is risk involved in buying a restored salvage vehicle. While many of the parts may be new, there will be some that are not, and even trained mechanics cannot always gauge the life expectancy of a vehicle. Further, the vehicle will be difficult to resell if you ever choose to, and very few, if any, dealers will take it as a trade-in.”

By the way, it’s considered fraud to sell a vehicle without disclosing that it once had a salvage or junk title. That’s why titles will be branded “resalvaged” or something similar to denote a vehicle that has been repaired from a salvage title.

Here’s an important tip when dealing with a resalvaged title. Make the seller demonstrate what work has been done. In most states, receipts for parts and repair work have to be submitted in order to get the resalvage title. You just can’t walk into the motor vehicles department and get the new title without proof.


Get a CarFax Report


Typically, CarFax reports aren’t the be all and end all, but I think you’ll find them useful when dealing with vehicles with salvage titles. They provide a great deal of information about a vehicle’s history if you know what you’re looking for.

The details section of the report is going to focus on two important areas:

• frame damage check

• airbag deployment check
 
Frame Damage Check: Cars with salvage titles have major problems. This is a warning that absolutely needs to be checked out. Your best bet is going to be an auto body repair facility. These mechanics have the best expertise for checking frame damage.
 
It’s important to have the frame check because it’s the basic skeleton of your car. Metal that has been straightened after a collision is permanently fatigued. That could lead to future weaknesses or problems. It’s just like a broken leg that has been set. That bone is going to give you trouble somewhere down the road.
 
Airbag Deployment Check: This is extremely important – not just because it indicates the car was in an accident and needs further inspection. You need to have your mechanic make sure the airbag was replaced. Unscrupulous body shops may not do the work.
 
Get a Qualified Inspection


As mentioned above with CarFax reports, you need to get a qualified inspection of any car with a salvage title. Actually, you’re going to need two: frame and mechanical.

Frame Inspection: The most important inspection is going to be the frame. Find an auto body shop with certified technicians to do this work. It’s worth the cost. These men and women have the most experience in fixing frame problems. They’re going to know the true condition of the used car’s frame.

Some folks recommend going to three auto body shops. I’m neutral on that idea because it is a major time investment and financial investment. I’d recommend three inspections on a vehicle worth more than $50,000. On less expensive vehicles, you begin to eat up your savings from buying a salvage-title vehicle.

Mechanical Inspection: This should be done for every used car regardless of its title. This will spot any potential long-term or short-term operating problems. The existence of a problem isn’t an automatic deal breaker. It’s just another factor in determining the vehicle’s value.

Weigh the Savings vs. Future Costs

Is it worth it to you to save $2000 on a car, if it’s going to cost you $3000 down the road in repairs? It might be if you’re capable of performing the repairs.

Also, are the savings worth it if you’re going to have trouble selling this car down the road? You may have difficulty finding savvy buyers who know salvage titles or resalvage titles aren’t always a deal killer.

The savings could also be worth it if you plan to run this car into the ground. If you’ve saved a good deal of money, you can always junk the vehicle when the time comes instead of repairing it.

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Is Your Check Engine Light On?

Have you ever noticed that when your Check Engine Light comes on, the car runs fine? There are no noises or signs of anything uncommon going on? Why? Becasue there isn't anything seriously wrong. It's more than likely a quick, easy, inexpensive fix that shouldn't cost you any more than a couple hundred dollars, at most.

Here's What To Do and What Not To Do.... and Why:

- First and foremost, DO NOT FREAK OUT! Why? Because you will end up spending hundreds and hundreds of dollars more than you should.

- After you DON'T freak out, check your gas cap. Why? Because a loose gas cap is a common reason for triggering a Check Engine Light. It sounds too simple and silly to be true, but guess what.... it's true. After filling up your tank, make sure the cap clicks at least 3 times before jumping back in your car. If this is what triggered the light, it will turn off once it's tightened.

- If that didn't fix the problem, go to an Advance Auto Parts, Discount Auto Parts, or NAPA store. Why? Because they ARE NOT mechanics. They sell parts, not fix or replace them. They will scan your car for free and they will be honest with you, unlike most mechanics (unfortunately). Their scanner will pull a "code" which will be translated into the actual problem (if there actually is a problem). In turn, they may try to sell you the part (more than likely a sensor or hose), but it's up to you whether or not you want to purchase the part yourself. Either way, you will know exactly what triggered the light to come on, so you will not be taken advantage of by a Service Shop or Repair Facility. You can save some money by purchasing the part at the Auto Parts Store and having a Service or Repair Facility install it. Believe it or not, it can actually be absolutely NOTHING AT ALL (you'll see what we mean later in this article). If this is the case, the Auto Parts store can reset the computer and the light will turn off.

- DO NOT go to AAMCO, or any other Franchise Service and Repair Facility for their FREE diagnosis of what triggered the light. Why? You know, as well as us, that nothing is FREE at these places. Well, the actual scan might be, but we will guarantee their estimate for repairs will exceed a couple hundred dollars, when in fact it should barely cost that much to fix.

- DO NOT go to the Manufacturer's Service Department. Why? Same as above, except they will not scan the car for free, they'll probably charge you an hour labor, when in fact it will take them all but 30 seconds to scan, and then hit you up for $400-$500 in unecessary repairs. You'll be surprised how many Manufacturer's set the cars computer to trigger that light at certain mileage intervals, in hopes you will freak out, run to them, and get charged hundreds and hundreds and hundreds of dollars for them to do absolutely NOTHING but reset the computer! The same thing that can be done at NAPA, Discount Auto Parts, or Advance Auto Parts stores for FREE!

That's it. It's that simple. Again, common reasons are a loose gas cap, or a $50-$150 sensor, or maybe a hose with a leak, or in fact nothing at all! So don't get all nervous and think your car is broken, because in fact it's not that serious of an issue.

One thing we do want to point out is if the Check Engine Light is flashing. If this happens, you actually do have some serious issues. In this case, get to a reputable Service and Repair Facility ASAP. Why? More times than none, a flashing Check Engine Light is in fact a direct engine or transmission issue.

- Tampa Bay Auto Network

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4 Tricks Credit Cards Play So You Pay More

Anyone who's been using credit cards for a period of time has likely noticed the creditor doesn't have the customer's best interests in mind. In fact, it's quite the opposite. Credit card companies look for sneaky ways to charge you more money, while you're stuck wondering what happened.

1. Universal Default

A universal default clause in your credit card agreement basically allow creditors to increase your interest rate for virtually any reason or no reason at all. Your rate might go up because you were late on another credit card payment, because you took on more debt, or any number of things the creditor thinks makes you risky. You can try asking for a lower interest rate, but the creditor may not oblige.

How to avoid the cost

Carry a credit card balance low enough for you to pay off at any time. That way, if your creditor decides to increase your rate, you can pay off the card before a finance charge hits.

2. Short Grace Period


A short grace period limits the amount of time you have to pay off new purchases and avoid a finance charge. The shorter your grace period, the less time you have to make your payment and the greater the chance the creditor can charge a finance charge on your balance.

How to avoid the cost

If your credit card has the option to access and pay your bill online, take advantage of it. Otherwise, be prepared to mail your payment as soon as you receive your billing statement.

3. Due Times


Some credit card companies put specific guidelines on on-time payments right down to the hour and minute. One minute late and you could be hit with a late fee, a higher interest rate, and a negative entry on your credit report. Not only that, your other creditors could also penalize you with an increased interest rate.

How to avoid the cost

Plan to send your payment a few days in advance of the due date. Use online bill pay to set up an automatic payment. Make the payment by phone, even if there’s an extra charge. If you have to snail mail your payment, don’t hesitate to mail it express it with priority mail or overnight service. Any extra charge you pay for express mail will be less than the late payment.

4. "Fixed" Interest Rates That Change


Your credit card agreement might specify a fixed interest rate, but that doesn't mean your rate won't change. It just means the creditor has to notify you before changing the rate. If your rate increases and you carry a balance from month to month, the amount you pay in finance charges will also increase.

How to avoid the cost

Pay your credit card balance in full each month to avoid paying a finance charge. Or, when your creditor notifies you of an interest rate increase, exercise your option to continue paying your balance under the current interest rate. The catch is you'll have to close the account, a move that could affect your credit score.

- Tampa Bay Auto Network

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