Understand Used Car Salvage Titles

As you shop for a used car, you might come across the phrase “salvage title” in a used car advertisement. The price is going to seem right and you’re really going to want to buy it. Just make sure you act with your brain and not your heart. There are a lot of things to consider before you can understand used car salvage titles. 

We're not here to say used car salvage titles are automatically a bad idea, but make sure you know what you’re getting into before purchasing a used car with a salvage title.

Here are four things you absolutely have to do before even considering buying a vehicle with a salvage title:


•Understand What a Salvage Title Is


•Get a CarFax report

•Get a Qualified Inspection

•Weigh the savings vs. future costs
 
Understand What a Salvage Title Is


In almost all cases, salvage title is given to any vehicle that has sustained damage worth 75% or more of its value. For example, if you drive a 2002 Honda Civic worth $9415 and it suffers $7061 in damage in a collision, it’s going to be branded with a title stamped “salvage.” In other words, it’s not considered fit to drive. Some states also call this a junk title.

According to carfax.com, the following 11 states also use salvage titles to identify stolen vehicles: Arizona, Florida, Georgia, Illinois, Maryland, Minnesota, New Jersey, New Mexico, New York, Oklahoma, and Oregon.

As mentioned, requirements are going to vary by state. In Florida, a car has to be damaged to 80% of its value before the accident. Vehicles in Minnesota are considered salvaged when they are declared "repairable total loss" by an insurance company, were worth at least $5,000 before the damage or are less than six years old.

A $4,000 car cannot be deemed salvage in Minnesota, which is a bad thing. Buyer beware when buying older cars from this state (or states with similar requirements). It makes poorer people more susceptible to unsafe vehicles.

The Arizona Motor Vehicle Division sums it up well with this statement: “Needless to say, there is risk involved in buying a restored salvage vehicle. While many of the parts may be new, there will be some that are not, and even trained mechanics cannot always gauge the life expectancy of a vehicle. Further, the vehicle will be difficult to resell if you ever choose to, and very few, if any, dealers will take it as a trade-in.”

By the way, it’s considered fraud to sell a vehicle without disclosing that it once had a salvage or junk title. That’s why titles will be branded “resalvaged” or something similar to denote a vehicle that has been repaired from a salvage title.

Here’s an important tip when dealing with a resalvaged title. Make the seller demonstrate what work has been done. In most states, receipts for parts and repair work have to be submitted in order to get the resalvage title. You just can’t walk into the motor vehicles department and get the new title without proof.


Get a CarFax Report


Typically, CarFax reports aren’t the be all and end all, but I think you’ll find them useful when dealing with vehicles with salvage titles. They provide a great deal of information about a vehicle’s history if you know what you’re looking for.

The details section of the report is going to focus on two important areas:

• frame damage check

• airbag deployment check
 
Frame Damage Check: Cars with salvage titles have major problems. This is a warning that absolutely needs to be checked out. Your best bet is going to be an auto body repair facility. These mechanics have the best expertise for checking frame damage.
 
It’s important to have the frame check because it’s the basic skeleton of your car. Metal that has been straightened after a collision is permanently fatigued. That could lead to future weaknesses or problems. It’s just like a broken leg that has been set. That bone is going to give you trouble somewhere down the road.
 
Airbag Deployment Check: This is extremely important – not just because it indicates the car was in an accident and needs further inspection. You need to have your mechanic make sure the airbag was replaced. Unscrupulous body shops may not do the work.
 
Get a Qualified Inspection


As mentioned above with CarFax reports, you need to get a qualified inspection of any car with a salvage title. Actually, you’re going to need two: frame and mechanical.

Frame Inspection: The most important inspection is going to be the frame. Find an auto body shop with certified technicians to do this work. It’s worth the cost. These men and women have the most experience in fixing frame problems. They’re going to know the true condition of the used car’s frame.

Some folks recommend going to three auto body shops. I’m neutral on that idea because it is a major time investment and financial investment. I’d recommend three inspections on a vehicle worth more than $50,000. On less expensive vehicles, you begin to eat up your savings from buying a salvage-title vehicle.

Mechanical Inspection: This should be done for every used car regardless of its title. This will spot any potential long-term or short-term operating problems. The existence of a problem isn’t an automatic deal breaker. It’s just another factor in determining the vehicle’s value.

Weigh the Savings vs. Future Costs

Is it worth it to you to save $2000 on a car, if it’s going to cost you $3000 down the road in repairs? It might be if you’re capable of performing the repairs.

Also, are the savings worth it if you’re going to have trouble selling this car down the road? You may have difficulty finding savvy buyers who know salvage titles or resalvage titles aren’t always a deal killer.

The savings could also be worth it if you plan to run this car into the ground. If you’ve saved a good deal of money, you can always junk the vehicle when the time comes instead of repairing it.

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Is Your Check Engine Light On?

Have you ever noticed that when your Check Engine Light comes on, the car runs fine? There are no noises or signs of anything uncommon going on? Why? Becasue there isn't anything seriously wrong. It's more than likely a quick, easy, inexpensive fix that shouldn't cost you any more than a couple hundred dollars, at most.

Here's What To Do and What Not To Do.... and Why:

- First and foremost, DO NOT FREAK OUT! Why? Because you will end up spending hundreds and hundreds of dollars more than you should.

- After you DON'T freak out, check your gas cap. Why? Because a loose gas cap is a common reason for triggering a Check Engine Light. It sounds too simple and silly to be true, but guess what.... it's true. After filling up your tank, make sure the cap clicks at least 3 times before jumping back in your car. If this is what triggered the light, it will turn off once it's tightened.

- If that didn't fix the problem, go to an Advance Auto Parts, Discount Auto Parts, or NAPA store. Why? Because they ARE NOT mechanics. They sell parts, not fix or replace them. They will scan your car for free and they will be honest with you, unlike most mechanics (unfortunately). Their scanner will pull a "code" which will be translated into the actual problem (if there actually is a problem). In turn, they may try to sell you the part (more than likely a sensor or hose), but it's up to you whether or not you want to purchase the part yourself. Either way, you will know exactly what triggered the light to come on, so you will not be taken advantage of by a Service Shop or Repair Facility. You can save some money by purchasing the part at the Auto Parts Store and having a Service or Repair Facility install it. Believe it or not, it can actually be absolutely NOTHING AT ALL (you'll see what we mean later in this article). If this is the case, the Auto Parts store can reset the computer and the light will turn off.

- DO NOT go to AAMCO, or any other Franchise Service and Repair Facility for their FREE diagnosis of what triggered the light. Why? You know, as well as us, that nothing is FREE at these places. Well, the actual scan might be, but we will guarantee their estimate for repairs will exceed a couple hundred dollars, when in fact it should barely cost that much to fix.

- DO NOT go to the Manufacturer's Service Department. Why? Same as above, except they will not scan the car for free, they'll probably charge you an hour labor, when in fact it will take them all but 30 seconds to scan, and then hit you up for $400-$500 in unecessary repairs. You'll be surprised how many Manufacturer's set the cars computer to trigger that light at certain mileage intervals, in hopes you will freak out, run to them, and get charged hundreds and hundreds and hundreds of dollars for them to do absolutely NOTHING but reset the computer! The same thing that can be done at NAPA, Discount Auto Parts, or Advance Auto Parts stores for FREE!

That's it. It's that simple. Again, common reasons are a loose gas cap, or a $50-$150 sensor, or maybe a hose with a leak, or in fact nothing at all! So don't get all nervous and think your car is broken, because in fact it's not that serious of an issue.

One thing we do want to point out is if the Check Engine Light is flashing. If this happens, you actually do have some serious issues. In this case, get to a reputable Service and Repair Facility ASAP. Why? More times than none, a flashing Check Engine Light is in fact a direct engine or transmission issue.

- Tampa Bay Auto Network

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4 Tricks Credit Cards Play So You Pay More

Anyone who's been using credit cards for a period of time has likely noticed the creditor doesn't have the customer's best interests in mind. In fact, it's quite the opposite. Credit card companies look for sneaky ways to charge you more money, while you're stuck wondering what happened.

1. Universal Default

A universal default clause in your credit card agreement basically allow creditors to increase your interest rate for virtually any reason or no reason at all. Your rate might go up because you were late on another credit card payment, because you took on more debt, or any number of things the creditor thinks makes you risky. You can try asking for a lower interest rate, but the creditor may not oblige.

How to avoid the cost

Carry a credit card balance low enough for you to pay off at any time. That way, if your creditor decides to increase your rate, you can pay off the card before a finance charge hits.

2. Short Grace Period


A short grace period limits the amount of time you have to pay off new purchases and avoid a finance charge. The shorter your grace period, the less time you have to make your payment and the greater the chance the creditor can charge a finance charge on your balance.

How to avoid the cost

If your credit card has the option to access and pay your bill online, take advantage of it. Otherwise, be prepared to mail your payment as soon as you receive your billing statement.

3. Due Times


Some credit card companies put specific guidelines on on-time payments right down to the hour and minute. One minute late and you could be hit with a late fee, a higher interest rate, and a negative entry on your credit report. Not only that, your other creditors could also penalize you with an increased interest rate.

How to avoid the cost

Plan to send your payment a few days in advance of the due date. Use online bill pay to set up an automatic payment. Make the payment by phone, even if there’s an extra charge. If you have to snail mail your payment, don’t hesitate to mail it express it with priority mail or overnight service. Any extra charge you pay for express mail will be less than the late payment.

4. "Fixed" Interest Rates That Change


Your credit card agreement might specify a fixed interest rate, but that doesn't mean your rate won't change. It just means the creditor has to notify you before changing the rate. If your rate increases and you carry a balance from month to month, the amount you pay in finance charges will also increase.

How to avoid the cost

Pay your credit card balance in full each month to avoid paying a finance charge. Or, when your creditor notifies you of an interest rate increase, exercise your option to continue paying your balance under the current interest rate. The catch is you'll have to close the account, a move that could affect your credit score.

- Tampa Bay Auto Network

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Surviving a Credit Crunch

After the mortgage meltdown in mid-2007, lenders cracked down on home equity loans, causing consumers to turn credit cards as a lending source. Credit card debt and delinquencies rose. Credit card companies, feeling the brunt of delinquencies, began cracking down on credit, increasing interest rates and credit card fees, and decreasing credit limits.

What's a Credit Crunch?

A credit crunch is a period of time in which credit and loans are more difficult and costly to obtain.

There are individuals and companies who invest in debt. These investors make money when consumers pay back their credit card and loan balances. Investors don't make money when consumers don't pay back their debt.

When credit card and loan delinquencies rise, debt investments become unattrative, leading investors to pull their funding. As a result, banks become stricter with lending and consumers, especially those with credit problems, find it harder to get credit.

Here's what you can do to survive a credit crunch.

Keep Paying Your Credit Cards and Loans On Time.

Credit card companies have to make money to stay in business. When investors start pulling funding, credit card companies find ways to get more money from cardholders. Increased late fees and interest rates are one way of doing this. Because of universal default, your interest rate on a particular credit card could increase even if you're late on another credit card's payment.

According to Smart Money, banks could start sending accounts to collections sooner, if credit card delinquencies rise at a swift rate. 

Not only do timely payments save you money and keep you out of collections, it also keeps your credit score healthy. A good credit score indicates a trustworthy borrower - one that credit card companies aren't afraid to give credit to.

Keep Your Balances Low


Since credit card issuers are tightening credit, they may decrease your credit limit, leaving you at or above your limit. In ordinary times, your credit limit would only be lowered in response to some negative action on your part, like repeatedly going over your limit or missing credit card payments. In a credit crunch, credit card issuers will decrease your credit limit simply because of market conditions.

A lower credit limit can hurt your credit, making it seem like you've maxed out your credit cards, even though you may not have. Keeping a low balance will reduce the damage of a lowered credit limit. A zero balance will eliminate the damage all together.

Have An Emergency Fund

An emergency fund keeps you from having to resort to credit during an emergency. During a credit crunch, if you need credit and don't have it, you might have a card time getting it. If you already have a reserve of cash, you won't have to resort to credit at all. Ideally, you'd have an emergency fund anyway - credit crunch or not.

Take Steps To Improve Your Credit


Risky borrowers - those who are likely to become delinquent on their credit cards - are hurt most by a credit crunch. They pay higher finance charges and fees on their credit accounts. It's also harder for these consumers to get new credit.

Consumers can reduce the effects of a credit crunch by taking steps to improve their credit. Making timely payments on all bills, keeping credit card balances low, and limiting new applications for credit are all ways you can improve your credit.

Stay Smart With Your Credit Card Usage


Good credit goes a long way during a credit crunch. If you have good credit, keep it that way. Charge only what you can afford and pay your balance in full each month.

Be aware that creditors might decrease your credit limit, especially if they suspect you'll miss a payment. Pay attention to your credit card statements and other notices that come from your credit card companies to catch a lowered limit as soon as possible.

- Tampa Bay Auto Network
 
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Tips and Advice on Reading Used Car Vehicle Identification Numbers - VINs

The most important number in a used car is not its price or fuel economy rating. It is its Vehicle Identification Number or VIN, as it is more commonly known. Reading used car vehicle identification numbers will help you know if the used car or truck you are buying has the equipment you think it does.

How To Read a VIN

A VIN is basically a serial number for your car, truck or SUV. It is 17 characters long and is a mixture of numbers and letters. It has four parts:

• World Manufacturer's Identification (WMI - three numbers or letters)

• Vehicle Description Section (VDS - five numbers or letters)

• The VIN Accuracy Check Digit (one number)

• Vehicle Identification Section (VIS - eight numbers or letters)

The First Three Characters

These numbers and letters are the manufacturer identification and tell you where the vehicle was built.

The First Character tells you where the vehicle was built. The U.S. is 1 or 4, Canada is 2, and Mexico is 3. Australia, New Zealand and some South American countries are also represented by numbers. Some of the more common countries are: Japan (J), Italy (Z), Germany (W) and Great Britain (S).

The Second Character will tell you the manufacturer while the Third Character identifies the kind of vehicle or the company’s manufacturing division.

The 4th to 8th Characters

This is the vehicle description series. It identifies the body style, powerplant, brakes, and the restraint system. The problem is different companies put the information in different places. With GM, for example, the restraint info is in the 7th character position, while BMW has the code in its 8th character position. By the way, if you’re buying a Chevy Impala and the 7th digit is a “0” your airbags have been deleted.

The 9th Character

This is something called a check digit. It verifies the previous 8 characters based on a mathematical computation developed by the U.S. Department of Transportation.

The 10th Character

This represents the year the car was built. Cars built before 1980 don’t have VINs, which is why the system starts in 1980. You will also notice the system does not use every letter in the alphabet. I, O, Q, U, and Z are omitted. The system are repeats itself every 30 years probably assuming most people could tell the difference between a 1980 and 2010 model.

• A: 1980

• B: 1981

• C: 1982

• D: 1983

• E: 1984

• F: 1985

• G: 1986

• H: 1987

• J: 1988

• K: 1989

• L: 1990

• M: 1991

• N: 1992

• P: 1993

• R: 1994

• S: 1995

• T: 1996

• V: 1997

• W: 1998

• X: 1999

• Y: 2000

• 1: 2001

• 2: 2002

• 3: 2003

• 4: 2004

• 5: 2005

• 6: 2006

• 7: 2007

• 8: 2008

• 9: 2009

• A: 2010

• B: 2011

• C: 2012

• D: 2013

• E: 2014

• F: 2015

The 11th Character

This tells you the plant where your car was built. Frankly, when buying a used car, this should not be a huge concern. Quality problems will have demonstrated themselves long before your purchase.

The 12th through 17th Characters

These are what most of us call the serial numbers of the car. Each manufacturer has a different system for what this means.

In the end, the best bet for understanding various components of a used vehicle’s VIN, is to go to a search engine and type in Understanding BMW VIN. It will take you to various sites that will help you further decipher the VIN.


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Predicting What A Used Car Will Be Worth

Do you have your eye on a new car or truck that has just been introduced, but you know you can’t afford it new? Well, there is a simple formula for predicting what a used vehicle is going to be worth three years down the road.

The first fact to consider is almost all used cars, trucks, SUVs and crossovers lose a minimum of 24% of their value after 12 months. That’s based on the Manufacturer Suggested Retail Price.

To keep things simple, a used car costing $20,000 would be worth $15,200 after one year. So say the folks from Black Book (www.blackbookusa.com). It sounds like a dating sight, but it’s actually the number one resource for predicting a car’s residual value when it goes on sale. That’s extremely important for setting leasing rates.

Then, from the basic 24% drop in value, you can start deducting 6% a year. A decent used car, introduced with the price of $20,000, would have an estimated value breaking down this way:

•After 12 months: $15,200

•After 24 months: $14,288

•After 36 months: $13,430

•After 48 months: $12,624

Of course, this formula will not work 100% of the time because some cars and trucks have residual values that drop like stones after 12 months. Case in point would be the Chevy HHR.

• 2009 Chevrolet HHR LT - $20,729

• 2008 Chevrolet HHR LT - $11,225 dealer price, according to Edmunds.com.

That’s a drop of 46% in one year. Wait two years and you’re looking at a $10,551 vehicle. Proving pretty much if you want a Chevy HHR, buy a used one. You are going to save a ton of money.

Use this basic formula to help you get started on what the value of a used car should be. It will save you from spending too much on your next used car or it will help you put aside the right amount if you’re a good saver!


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How To Spot Car Scams On Craigslist

1 - Log on to Craigslist and look for a deal on a car. Some of the most successful Craigslist car scams involve used cars that are rare or "classics".

2 - Look for expensive cars listed for a price well below their market value. Scammers use very obvious deals to get potential victims interested in doing business with them.

3 - Respond to the ad. Get an immediate reply from the scammer telling you the reason why he is selling the car, even though the details are irrelevant. Scammers usually refer to an overseas move and difficulty in transferring the car into the new country.

4 - Note that that the scammer is only willing to give you a limited amount of information about his identity. In some cases, the scammer may give you more information than is needed, but the information will be fake or unverifiable.

5 - Refuse to close the transaction without seeing the car. The seller will try to convince you to use a supposedly secure escrow service to transfer and hold your money until the transaction has been completed. The escrow service will be associated with a company that you've never heard of or based in a foreign country. In some cases, the scammer will insist that you wire money.

6 - Understand that if you use the escrow service or wire money to the scammer the car will never be delivered and you'll lose your money.


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Are You a Distracted Driver?

Ever tried to eat a burger while driving? What about trying to separate your two fighting kids in the back seat? Ever reached down to pick up a CD that fell on the floor while driving? These are just a few of the most common driver distractions.

We all become more comfortable driving as the years progress, but unfortunately many of us become a little too confident. Your license to drive is not a license to drive while simultaneously putting on your makeup and shoving down a quick breakfast.

Let's take a look at some common driver distractions. Are you guilty of any of these?

• Cell Phones—Cell phone use in cars has been a hot topic ever since cell phones started becoming popular. We all know that talking on our phones can distract our attention from driving. We all know that we should use hands-free devices whenever possible (although these can still be a distraction, just like the distracting discussions topic above). Yet a large percentage of us still talk on our cell phones frequently while driving. Try to keep your cell phone use while driving limited to emergencies only. If you get a call you really want to take, pull over in a safe spot and have your conversation.

• Text Messaging—An even greater distraction than cell phones, text messaging while driving is becoming such a concern that many local and state governments are considering legislation that would make it illegal to text while driving (Washington state has already passed such legislation). Teenagers are especially prone to the dangers of texting while driving. If there is a teen driver with access to a cell phone in your household, talk to them about the dangers of texting while driving. Just as important, make sure you set an example for your teen by not texting while driving yourself.

• Outside Distractions—Whether it's a restaurant that just opened, a human billboard pointing the way to new homes, a beautiful rainbow or a bad accident, most of us just cannot resist the urge to take a peek, even when we should be concentrating on the road.

• Sicknesses—A sudden onset of sneezes, a bad cough and searching your car for a tissue to catch that runny nose are all examples of how being sick can distract you from driving. Not to mention the fact that most of us are not at our most alert when we are sick. That's why it is extra important to pay attention to the road and to wait until you are stopped at a traffic light to reach for that tissue. Of course, we can't predict sneezes, but make sure you quickly look back to the road after you sneeze.

• Inspector Gadget—Cars these days often have more controls than a small plane. Besides the obvious stereo and temperature controls, many cars have features such as navigation systems and televisions. CD players can be especially distracting, as it takes at least one hand off the steering wheel to pick out a CD and put it in the player, especially if your pack of CDs is on the ground and you have to reach for them…which brings us to…

• Reaching for the Unreachable—We are all guilty of this at one time or another. For some reason, we just HAVE to have that book in the back seat in our hands now. But this is one of the worst driver distractions, as it usually means that our hand or hands are off the wheel AND our eyes are off the road. Next time, try to make yourself wait to grab that errant CD until you are stopped at a traffic light. Or, if it's safe, pull over and grab whatever you need.

• Eating and Drinking—One of the most common driver distractions is eating and/or drinking while driving. These days, we all seem to be in a rush, and many of us try to scarf down our breakfast or lunch on our way to work. Some of the worst foods to eat while driving are coffee/tea (a hot spill on your leg will certainly distract you), messy hamburgers or sandwiches that drop stuff all over you while you are driving, anything fried that leaves you with greasy hands that could slip off the steering wheel, and, similarly, things like chocolate and jelly doughnuts that leave your hands sticky or slick. Try to avoid eating on the road whenever possible. If you are in a rush, grab a quick bite and eat it in the parking lot before leaving.

• Distracting Discussions—Ever gotten in a heated debate while driving? What about listening and intervening as your children in the backseat start arguing? Interaction with your passengers is another common driving distraction. This can especially be a problem for new drivers, who should focus all their attention on their driving and not on their passengers.

• Beautification—Again, you're running late. You forgot to put on your mascara/brush your hair/shave. What better place to do it than in the car, right? Wrong! Things that involve tools not only take your hands off the steering wheel and your eyes off the road, they also have the potential to inflict pain and cause further distraction. If you are applying eye makeup or shaving and you have to brake suddenly, think of the injuries that could ensue!

The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) states that distracted driving causes around 25 percent of the auto accidents in the U.S. each year. That's nearly 1.6 million accidents annually caused by many of the things we discussed above, most of which are so easily preventable. Try to avoid letting distractions take your attention away from what you should be doing, concentrating on driving and protecting the lives of you and your passengers.


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Silver is the Most Popular Car Color for Ninth Year in a Row

Silver is overwhelmingly the most popular car color worldwide for the ninth consecutive year, according to data released on October 2 by auto paint giant PPG Industries.

The color silver includes charcoal and gray shades, giving it a leg up on more clearly defined colors such as black, white and red.

The European auto palate prefers silver and charcoal 35 percent of the time, followed by black, 22 percent, and blue and white, at 13 percent each. Red, commonly associated with fast Italian sports cars, is actually as rare in Europe as Italian sports cars themselves, at just 8 percent.

The Asia/Pacific region was a near mirror of Europe's preferences at the top with silver and charcoal the most common color (34 percent), followed by black (21 percent), white (17 percent) and blue (9 percent).

In North America silver and charcoal was not so dominant but still victorious, at 25 percent, followed by white (18 percent), black (16 percent), red (12 percent) and blue (11 percent).

The auto industry today would not agree with carmaker Henry Ford, who famously said of his revolutionary Model T in 1909: "Any customer can have a car painted any color that he wants so long as it is black."

"Clearly, the automotive industry is moving toward more color choices," said Jane E. Harrington, PPG manager of color styling and automotive coatings. "Going forward, automotive manufacturers are going to be relying on color more and more to distinguish their brands."

The survey was released at this year's annual Automotive Colour Trend Show in Switzerland, where the Pittsburgh-based company revealed new color ideas such as Outer Space Blue, Champagne Silver and Hulk, the same shade of green as the famed comic book character.

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Buying A Used Car? Use This Checklist....

Buying a used car is a great way to stretch your dollar, but.... you'll want to follow this Checklist BEFORE you buy:

1. Be an educated consumer.

2. Determine what you want and need, make a list, and prioritize your items.

3. Establish a budget and determine the class of vehicles that fit it.

4. Narrow selection by makes and models and learn all you can about them.

5. Research dealerships and sellers.

6. Know the fair market value and vehicle history of any vehicle you're considering.

7. Obtain Vehicle Identification Numbers (VINs) and research cars online; obtain vehicle history reports.

8. Take test-drives and make sure to have cars checked by a mechanic.

9. ASK QUESTIONS, and consider all loan options.

10. If you feel hesitant, walk away. There's always another deal.

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Understanding Electronic Stability Control

In simple terms, stability control is a computer-managed system that is designed to help the driver maintain control of a vehicle during sudden maneuvers. The technology is considered an “active” safety system because it is designed to help the driver avoid an accident. Sudden braking, throttle or steering inputs when traveling on slick surfaces, or during emergency avoidance maneuvers, can put a vehicle in an unstable state which can potentially result in a spin-out. Without stability control, the vehicle could be nearly impossible to keep on the road. With stability control, however, the driver will feel the loss of control only momentarily.

When sensors and software identify a loss of control, within fractions of a second the system will automatically begin to regulate the brakes and throttle in an attempt to bring the vehicle back under control. Throughout the process, the driver only needs to steer the car toward its intended direction of travel as the system will remain working until the person behind the wheel has complete control once again. However, stability control is not fail safe. If the car is violently heading off course, the driver is traveling at a high rate of speed, or the surface is particularly slick, stability control might not correct the situation. It can, however, work to mitigate whatever damage might occur from a loss of control even if it cannot fully correct the skid.

Technically speaking, stability control is a computer-controlled system that regulates hydraulic and mechanical components on the vehicle using sensors shared with the anti-lock braking system (ABS) and traction control system (TCS). With a typical stability control system, the ABS and TCS sensors monitor the speed of each wheel. Additional sensors monitor the vehicle speed, steering wheel angles, and yaw (how the car turns on its vertical axis). During normal driving, all of the sensors report vehicle data to a high-speed microcomputer. By comparing the steering wheel angle to the vehicle readings, the microcomputer is able to determine if the driver has the vehicle under control, or has entered an unstable situation (a skid or uncontrolled slide, for example). 

If the stability control system determines the vehicle is experiencing a potential loss of direction, it immediately attempts to correct the problem by controlling the throttle and braking in an attempt to bring the vehicle under control (it does not control the steering wheel). In operation, the stability control system is far more capable than any driver. Not only does it respond faster, but it is able to control each wheel independently—a feat that is impossible from behind the steering wheel.

As an active safety feature, stability control helps the driver avoid an accident. In an emergency, even the most experienced drivers may find themselves in a situation where they are driving outside the normal limits of their vehicle and a loss of control is imminent. Black ice on the highway, a deer bolting across a dark road, an evasive maneuver to avoid another driver: these are all scenarios where a loss of control would be likely. A stability control system can recognize the potential of the situation, even before the driver can take evasive action, and take corrective action to possibly prevent a serious accident.

Stability control shares its technology with anti-lock brakes and traction control so it is often bundled in an option package including all three. While it is not yet required by law on passenger vehicles, stability control is an integral part of any comprehensive active safety package and is a worthwhile option that can prevent accidents and save lives.

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Is Your Car On Thieves' List?

As we all know, there are many factors that influence our auto insurance costs, including the cars that we drive, the places we live, and our genders, ages and driving records. When it comes to the car we drive, a major consideration for insurers is whether that car is frequently stolen. If your car is on the list of most stolen vehicles, most insurance companies will charge you a higher rate to insure it.

Non-profit organizations such as the National Insurance Crime Bureau (NICB) track the most stolen vehicles in America by tallying all cars that are reported stolen by law enforcement agencies each year. The NICB's most current top 25 list of most stolen vehicles nationwide is as follows:

1. Toyota Camry

2. Honda Accord

3. Honda Civic

4. Chevrolet Full Size C/K Pickup

5. Ford Full Size Pickup (150/250/350)

6. Jeep Cherokee/Grand Cherokee

7. Oldsmobile Cutlass/Supreme/Ciera

8. Dodge Caravan/Grand Caravan

9. Ford Taurus

10. Toyota Corolla

11. Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth Neon

12. Nissan Sentra

13. Chevrolet Caprice

14. Ford Explorer

15. Chevrolet Cavalier

16. Chevrolet Compact SUV (Blazer)

17. Plymouth Voyager/Grand Voyager

18. Toyota Pickup

19. Pontiac Grand Am

20. Ford Escort

21. Acura Integra

22. Dodge Ram Pickup

23. Nissan Maxima

24. Ford Mustang

25. Buick LeSabre

Even if your car is high on this list – You CAN protect it!

There are a number of measures you can take to help safeguard your car from being stolen, even from the most experienced thief. The NICB recommends the following “layers of protection;” saying the more layers of protection on your vehicle, the more difficult it is to steal. Think about it, can you imagine what you would do without your car for even a week, let alone longer? Don’t let these professional thieves profit on the car you count on to get you to all the places you need to go.

Layer #1 – Common Sense

An unlocked vehicle with a key in the ignition is an open invitation to any thief, regardless of which anti-theft device you use. The common sense approach to protection is the simplest and most cost-effective way to thwart would-be thieves.

Secure your vehicle even if parking for brief periods. You should always:

•Remove your keys from the ignition

•Lock your doors/close your windows

•Park in a well-lit area

Layer #2 – Warning Device

The second layer of protection is a visible or audible device which alerts thieves that your vehicle is protected.

Popular second layer devices include:

•Audible alarms

•Steering column collars

•Steering wheel/Brake pedal lock

•Brake locks

•Wheel locks

•Tire locks/Tire deflators

•Theft deterrent decals

•Identification markers in or on vehicle

•Window etching

•Laminated glass

Layer #3 – Immobilizing Device

The third layer of protection is a device which prevents thieves from bypassing your ignition and hot-wiring the vehicle.

Some electronic devices have computer chips in ignition keys. Other devices inhibit the flow of electricity or fuel to the engine until a hidden switch or button is activated.

Popular third layer devices include:

•Smart keys

•Fuse cut-offs

•Kill switches

•Starter, ignition and fuel disablers

Layer # 4 – Tracking Device

The final layer of protection is a tracking device which emits a signal to a police or monitoring station when the vehicle is reported stolen. Tracking devices are very effective in helping authorities recover stolen vehicles.

Passive and Active Anti-Theft Systems.

Passive and active anti-theft devices are the two options available when considering an anti-theft system. Passive devices automatically arm themselves when the vehicle is turned off, the ignition key removed, or a door is shut. No additional action is required. Active devices require some independent physical action before they are set, such as pushing a button, or placing a "lock" over a vehicle component part. This physical action must be repeated every time the anti-theft device is set or it will not function.

We can’t predict the future, but we can help safeguard the cars that we count on. Add a layer to your vehicle protection today!

Data is from the National Insurance Crime Bureau (NICB); and list is based on the February 26, 2004 release of comprehensive 2002 vehicle data. Visit www.nicb.org for more information.


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What a DUI Will Do To Your Auto Insurance Rates

As if the cost of a life and emotional devastation isn't enough to serve as a deterrent for not drinking and driving, few drivers realize the financial impact they will endure if convicted of operating a motor vehicle while under the influence (DUI). Unfortunately, even the most "regular" people continue to take the calculated risk of driving after a few drinks with delusions of sobriety. If you're a driver who tends to gamble in this situation, are you prepared to cough-up $10,828 in total costs?

DUI's Impact on Car Insurance

All emotions aside: a DUI dramatically increases the degree of risk an insurance company assumes in order to underwrite your car insurance policy. After a DUI, you will be categorized as a high risk driver and can expect your current premiums to double-if your carrier doesn't just simply non-renew your policy.

MADD (Mothers Against Drunk Driving) reports that the average first time DUI offender can expect his/her car insurance rates to range between $3,600 and $6,600 a year. Depending on how long a DUI remains on your state's driving record, these rates are known to continue for up to 7 years. Furthermore, any additional accidents and tickets (past or future) can easily make the situation exponentially more difficult-tripled insurance costs!

Additional Costs of a DUI

Unless you live in a major city, there really is no substitute to driving. From the perspective of life's real world priorities, being able to drive ranks just below air, water, food, and shelter. Salvaging this privilege after a DUI though involves more than just expensive car insurance rates. Depending on the state you live in, additional costs can include:

•Towing: $300 - $1,200

•Bail: $250 - $2,500

•Fines and Court Fees : $500 - $2,500

•Attorney Fees (average): $2,500

•Mandatory Education and Treatment: $350 - $2,000

•Electronic Home Monitoring: $150 - $2,250

•Ignition Lock: $730 - $2,800

What the above estimates fail to account for the number of hours it takes to satisfy all the corresponding obligations. Time spent in court, at classes and treatment, restitution services, and even jail time can turn a person's world upside-down. Interestingly, states like Washington make matters more complicated by automatically suspending driving privileges for 90 days upon the first offence. Think of how you would even get to court?

Furthermore, since a DUI is criminal offence, your driving record will be complemented by a criminal record. If your vocation values the integrity of such a mark (medical, transportation, finance, etc.) finding a new job can become as complicated as finding affordable car insurance.

Affordable Car Insurance After a DUI?

Although a DUI is a mistake that ravishes a person's finances, it is possible to bounce back after a conviction. Every day that passes after your DUI conviction can lower your rates, because older charges have less of an impact on your risk profile, especially if you were a teenager or young adult at the time of your conviction. More so than any other driver, you should shop around for lower rates. Although you won't have as many options, don't fall into the trap of signing on with the first company that approves your application. Conduct research, compare quotes, and make a careful decision. In the meantime, take a conservative approach to driving and don't get any tickets or become involved in accidents.

Unfortunately, organizations like MADD exist because people continue to take the risk of driving under the influence. Nearly 17,000 people died in DUI related car accidents in 2005 alone. If this doesn't deter you, then maybe the $10,828 total out-of-pocket expenses for a first-time offender will.

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Tips - Shopping for a Used Car Online

With so much content and information available online today, the Internet is making it easier than ever for prospective buyers to shop for a used vehicle. The following tips may be helpful for shoppers in the market for a used vehicle and may help improve satisfaction with their used-vehicle purchase experience.


1. Visit a variety of Web sites. With an abundance of information available online for used-vehicle shoppers, it’s helpful to know where to find what you’re looking for. Independent sites are good places to find intuitive search tools that match shoppers with the right vehicle for their needs, as well as pricing and reliability information. Dealerships often maintain sites that provide their current vehicle inventories, while many manufacturer sites allow shoppers to search for certified pre-owned vehicles in their area.

2. Search for comparative used-vehicle pricing. The development of Web sites such as Kelley Blue Book (kbb.com), N.A.D.A. (nada.com), AutoTrader.com and Edmunds.com have made searching for used-vehicle pricing information easy. Using these sites to compare prices will give shoppers a general idea of their desired vehicle’s price range without leaving the comfort of their homes. Note: kbb.com is an Official Value Guide for the West Coast.  The Official Value Guide for the East Coast is nada.com .

3. Consider online classified ads. Online classified ads sites such as AutoTrader.com and cars.com are a competitive and convenient tool to give shoppers more options when considering a used vehicle. These sites allow sellers to post used-vehicle listings along with several pictures that can be viewed easily by shoppers, based on their preferred zip code.


4. Purchase or ask for a Vehicle History Report. Vehicle History Reports (VHRs) are an inexpensive way to check the track record of any used vehicle. More than 33% of automotive Internet users receive a free vehicle history report from the seller. If your dealer or private seller does not offer a VHR, be weary of the vehicle. Before you spend the money on the VHR yourself, contact us, we have an unlimited Carfax Subscription and we'll pull the Report for you free of charge.

5. Search for financing and compare interest rates online. When shoppers have financing arranged ahead of time, it often gives them greater negotiating power when dealing with the seller.



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What Impacts Auto Insurance Costs?

We all know that there are many factors that can affect your auto insurance costs. Some of the more obvious determinants are:


•Gender and Age. Young male drivers are typically the most expensive to insure, especially if they have any type of mark on their driver's record.

•Driving Record. Tickets, accidents, being caught driving while under the influence of drugs or alcohol…they all add up and translate into higher auto insurance costs.

•Miscellaneous Discounts. If you are a good student, if you have safety features installed on your car, if you have low mileage on your car, if you are a senior, if you are in the military…all of these can mean discounts on your auto insurance costs. But, did you know that where you live and what you drive may also impact your auto insurance costs?

Location, Location, Location

It's a fact, auto insurance rates in rural communities are almost always lower than those in large urban centers. Accidents tend to happen much more frequently in big cities, usually due to the high amount of cars on the road (AKA: Traffic!)

Certain states have higher insurance rates than others due to the percentage of claims filed. States like New Jersey, Washington D.C., New York and Massachusetts typically have the highest average insurance rates.

It can also cost more to settle claims in certain areas, and this can add to the cost of your insurance premiums. Expensive cars cost more to repair or replace, and wealthy urban communities will sometimes have higher average insurance rates.

Pick a Low-Profile, Safe Vehicle

How your vehicle holds up in a crash is also important to auto insurance companies. Think about it, the more a vehicle costs to repair after a crash, the more auto insurance companies will have to pay out. If there are certain vehicles that tend to be involved in more accidents, tend to incur more damage and involve more bodily harm to passengers when in those accidents, it is safe to assume those vehicles will cost more to insure. Vehicles such as sports cars and some SUVs tend to rate lower in terms of crashworthiness, and therefore carry higher insurance rates.

Another important factor is whether or not your vehicle is on the list of those most frequently targeted for theft. Non-profit organizations such as the National Insurance Crime Bureau (NICB) and the Highway Loss Data Institute (HLDI) track the most commonly stolen vehicles. The NICB lists tend to track all vehicles on the road (often meaning the most popular cars are those most commonly stolen), while the HLDI tracks results based on the number of insured vehicles on the road (meaning those with higher theft claims top the list). The NICB lists the five most commonly stolen vehicles in the U.S. in 2001 as the Toyota Camry, the Honda Accord, the Honda Civic, the Oldsmobile Cutlass/Supreme/Ciera and the Jeep Cherokee/Grand Cherokee. The HLDI list the five vehicles with the highest theft claim frequencies in 2001 as the Acura Integra, the Jeep Wrangler, the Jeep Cherokee 4WD, the Honda Prelude and the Mitsubishi Mirage.

Basically, all these cars will most likely be more expensive to insure. Make sure you check out the insurance costs of a particular vehicle before purchasing it.

If your car is stolen, make sure to contact the police right away. Have information such as the year, make and model of your vehicle, your license plate number, the VIN (vehicle identification number), where the theft occurred and what time of the day. Next, you should inform your insurance company that the car was stolen. The more quickly you do this, the more quickly they can get started on processing your claim.

Conclusion


Along with the obvious factors about you, the person to be insured, other factors about your vehicle type and where you live are likely to affect your auto insurance costs. Make sure to compare quotes before purchasing an insurance plan, and find one that best suits you, your vehicle, and your locale.


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10 Ways To Lower Your Car Insurance Rates

With all the expenses one has in regards to their car- gas, maintenance, and of course car insurance; you auto insurance could be the easiest one to save money on. Taking time to review your policy, taking time to compare multiple quotes, and raising your deductible are just some of the ways you can start saving on car insurance.

1. Shop and Compare Rates Every 6 Months


If you check your car insurance rates in January, make sure your check them again in June. According to an independent study, people who compare rates and switch carriers at InsWeb.com save an average of $301* on a six month policy. Consider the savings over 12 months! Tickets or no tickets, you're a different driver than you were last summer. Get updated quotes and see what your individual savings could be.
 
2. Lower Your Premium by Selecting Higher Deductibles


Simply put, the higher your deductible, the lower your premium. Indeed the cost of an accident will be that much more expensive; however, if the damage is minor (grey zone in making accident claim), you'll be spending the same out-of-pocket amount regardless.
 
3. Make a Cheaper Policy Even Cheaper: Don't Pay in Monthly Installments


Additional administrative fees are commonly applied to payments when you split your premium in to installments (i.e. monthly, semi-annual, annual). Be aware that a monthly fee of even $7 can add up to $84 over 12 months.

4. Look for Multi-Line Insurance Discounts


The most under recognized car insurance discount results from the multi-line insurance policy: buying your auto insurance and your homeowners insurance from the same insurance company. According to the Insurance Information Institute, a multi-line policy can save you up to 15% on both premiums.
 
5. Collect on Good Driving Car Insurance Discounts


Most insurance companies reward good driving with lower premiums. In fact, in some states a good driving discount is required by law. If you haven't had any accidents or tickets in the last three to five years, shop at InsWeb.com and see whether you are missing out on this money savings discount.
 
6. Don't Overpay for Tickets in your Car Insurance


Unfortunately moving violations are an accurate reflection of your liability to an insurance company, and your rates can skyrocket as a result. Perhaps you deserve a higher rate, but don't let the insurance company unduly punish you. Shop around and see if you can find a more reasonable rate with another company.
 
7. Look for Safe Vehicle Auto Insurance Discount


Many companies offer discounts for various safety features on your vehicle, including air bags, alarms, factory-installed mechanical seatbelts and antilock brakes. In getting updated insurance quotes, be sure to indicate such safety features to benefit from available discounts. 
 
8. Don't Overpay for Your Unnecessary Coverage


You may be paying for coverage that you don't need. For example, you may be a member of an auto club that provides towing services, yet you're also paying for towing on your auto insurance policy. Look for opportunities to eliminate unnecessary costs. 
 
9. Look for a Good Student Discount or Senior Discount


Students currently enrolled in school often receive a discount on auto insurance for good grades, as many companies feel conscientious students make conscientious drivers. Similarly, insurance companies are known to value the wisdom of an experienced driver, offering discounts to drivers over 50 as a result.
 
10. Insurance Discount: Pay Less for Driving Less


Many insurance companies will offer discounts on vehicles that incur low annual mileage. In fact, some companies have a predetermined number of what they consider low mileage. Has your commute changed? If so, it might save you money to get an updated quote.
 
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Washing Your Vehicle

Although modern vehicle finishes are quite durable and resistant to environmental elements, the paint still needs to be washed on a regular basis to prevent buildup of elements that could permanently harm the finish of your vehicle. In addition, there are the obvious aesthetic benefits to having a clean vehicle.

Why Wash My Car?


Modern vehicles are operated in some pretty harsh environments and are subjected to a continual bombardment of potentially abrasive and corrosive elements. On the road, insects and bird droppings can land on the paint. In the winter, cold weather road maintenance bathes paint with a caustic salt solution, while summer may bring fresh hot tar that can stick to paint. Even while safely parked, dust, acid rain, pollen and bird droppings quickly adhere to the paint. Over time, these contaminants can chemically etch the surface, leaving permanent paint damage. Even plain old dirt eventually scratches the finish, while excessive road salt can lead to early corrosion. To prevent these types of damage, vehicles need to be washed with a good car wash soap and water.
 
Which Car Wash Soap Should I Use?


Unlike most household soaps and detergents, which are designed to cut grease and oil, car wash soap is specially made to be gentle to your vehicle’s finish. Car wash soap will not remove wax and other protective finishes from the surface of the paint. Special additives in the soap (called surfactants) lift and hold dirt so they can be easily rinsed off the surface. Other additives help lubricate your wash sponge to protect the paint from scratching. Some car wash soaps use a type of water-soluble wax to protect the finish even after the car has been dried. Nearly all specialized car wash soaps are sold in concentrate form as a liquid or powder. Mixed with a large bucket of fresh water, a few capfuls will easily wash an entire vehicle.
 
How Often Should I Wash My Car


There is no simple answer to this question, as every vehicle is operated in a different environment. As a rule, the vehicle should be washed when the paint starts looking dirty from two car lengths away, or immediately when contaminants such as bird droppings, winter salt, sap, or tar are on the paint. Most vehicles can go at least seven to 10 days between washings. A garaged vehicle will stay clean nearly twice as long. Contrary to popular belief, a rain shower does not constitute a car wash (in fact, rain can place more harmful chemicals on the paint than does the air!).
 
What About Automatic Car Washes?


If you would rather take your vehicle somewhere to have it washed, do not despair, as there are many benefits to using an automatic car wash. In addition to the convenience, most commercial car washes will vacuum the inside of your car and even offer specialized detailing services such as waxing and polishing. Not to be overlooked, most commercial facilities filter and recycle their water, greatly benefiting the environment.

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Why Tire Care Is Important

While it’s easy to overlook those four patches of rubber called your tires, performing a few simple checks can yield better fuel economy and improved vehicle handling. Since most tire damage and wear is a result of driving on tires that are improperly inflated, tire experts suggest checking your air pressure once a month.

Maintaining proper tire pressure is important for many reasons other than reducing the potential of a flat tire or a blowout. In order to achieve optimum handling from your vehicle, from everyday driving to making emergency maneuvers, tire pressure needs to be at the proper inflation level. Even a tire that doesn’t appear to be low on air can result in reduced vehicle handling and excessive tread wear.

Tires that are not at the correct air pressure will also increase the rolling resistance (the friction that occurs when an object rolls) of the vehicle. Under-inflated tires, for example, result in increased rolling resistance and therefore require more energy (or fuel) to move the vehicle, which negatively impacts fuel economy. According to the Department of Energy, keeping tires inflated properly improves fuel economy by approximately 3.3 percent. Tires that are over-inflated result in reduced levels of handling performance because less rubber is in contact with the road.

Improper inflation puts unnecessary stress on your tires and can result in excessive or uneven wear. When this happens, it compromises the ability of the tires to perform, and often results in premature tire wear—and the necessity to replace them sooner than expected. Tires with excessive or uneven tread wear can also lead to an accident.

How To Check Your Tire Pressure:

To check tire pressure, use an air pressure gauge. These inexpensive items are available at auto parts stores, gas stations, or in the automotive section of department stores. Many gas stations have one that you can borrow in a pinch.

First, consult your owner’s manual or the label inside the driver’s door jamb to find out what the recommended air pressure is for your vehicle. The number is expressed in “psi” (pounds per square inch). The manufacturer has determined the correct pressure for each vehicle and tire combination and may also list a “hot” pressure, for when tires are warm, and a “cold” pressure if you’ve driven just a few miles (such as from your home to the gas station to check your tire pressure). There may even be special tire pressure recommendations based on the number of passengers or if the vehicle is used for towing. Importantly, the psi number noted on the sidewall of the tire is the maximum pressure of the tire and is not the proper inflation level for the vehicle.

To check the air pressure, unscrew the cap from the tire’s valve stem and place the round end of the gauge over the stem. Push down with some force to ensure there is a good seal, otherwise the reading will be incorrect (and you may also lose air pressure). To determine what the tire pressure is, read the numbers and lines on the bottom of the gauge. If you’re not sure the reading is accurate, repeat the procedure one or two more times.

Check all four tires and add or remove air as needed to equalize the tire pressures. To add air, use the air compressor at any gas station, which will frequently cost you a quarter or two. To remove air, simply use the non-rounded end of your gauge, and push it in to the valve stem. As the valve is being depressed, the escaping air will make a hissing sound. Use the gauge to check the pressure several times until the proper psi reading is reached.

Perform A Simple Tire Inspection:

In addition to checking your air pressure, also look for signs of tire wear, such as cracks in the sidewall, or foreign objects embedded in the tire, such as nails or screws. Check the tread depth using a simple “penny” test. Take a penny and place it with President Lincoln’s hair downward between the grooves of the tread at the top of the tire. As long as part of his head is obscured by the tread, you have the legal amount of tread remaining on your tires. Check the tread depth in several places on each tire to spot uneven tread wear. If you see Abe’s full head in some areas, then it’s time to purchase new tires.

Signs Of Tire Problems:

Although there is no replacement for using a tire gauge to check the inflation levels, there are a couple of signs that your vehicle’s tires may be improperly inflated. When driving down a straight, level road, check to see if the car pulls to one side or the other. While this “pulling” may be caused by improper alignment, it may also indicate a tire issue—especially if you are certain that the alignment is correct or if the vehicle recently had an alignment service. If the center section of the tread is smooth, your tires may be over-inflated. Likewise, if the outside sections or edges of the tire tread are worn or rounded, your tires may be under-inflated. Also, listen for any squealing sounds when turning a corner at normal speeds. While these things can be symptoms of other problems, they are frequently signs of improperly inflated tires.

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Warning Signs You Need New Brakes

Look, Listen

There are two ways to check for brake wear on disc brakes: by looking and by listening. First, check for wear by looking at your brake pads through the spaces between the wheel’s spokes. The outside pad will be pressed against a metal rotor. Generally, there should be at least 1/4 inch of pad. If you see less than 1/4 inch of pad, you may want to have your brake pads inspected or replaced.

Have you ever heard a high-pitched screeching sound when you applied your brakes? That’s a small metal shim, called an indicator, which is giving you an audible warning that you need to replace your brake pads. You should be aware of this sound (which is loud enough to be heard while the windows are up, but not necessarily loud enough to be heard over the radio or air conditioner). If you hear it regularly, quickly make an appointment with your mechanic.

One exception is if your car has been sitting after being exposed to water, such as from rain or from washing it. The moisture can cause a thin layer of rust to develop on the brake rotors. This is normal. When you first apply the brakes, the pads pressing on the rust-covered rotors may cause a squeal for a few stops until the rust is worn off and then the sound will disappear.

Here are some other signs of brake problems. If you experience any of these, you should visit your repair shop as soon as possible:

• Reduced Responsiveness or Fading. If your brakes are not as responsive as they should be or if the pedal “sinks” toward the floor, this could be an indication of a leak in the braking system. It could be an air leak (in the brake hose) or a brake fluid leak. One telltale sign of a brake fluid leak is the presence of a small puddle of fluid when the car is parked. Brake fluid looks similar to fresh motor oil, but with a less “slimy” texture.

• Pulling. If your vehicle “pulls” to one side while braking, it may be a sign that the brake linings are wearing unevenly or that there is foreign matter in the brake fluid. Your vehicle may need a brake adjustment or to have the fluid drained and replaced.

• Grinding or Growling. This loud metallic sound means that you have worn down the pads completely, most likely beyond replacement. The grinding or growling noise is caused by the two pieces of metal (the disc and the caliper) rubbing together. This can “score,” or scratch your rotors, creating an uneven surface. If this happens, do not be surprised if your mechanic tells you that the rotors need to be “turned” (a process that evens out the rotor surface), or even replaced.

• Vibration. A vibration or pulsating brake pedal is often a symptom of warped rotors (but can also indicate that your vehicle is out of alignment). The vibration can feel similar to the feedback in the brake pedal during a panic stop in a vehicle equipped with anti-lock brakes.

It is a sign of warped rotors if the vibration occurs during braking situations when the anti-lock brakes are not engaged. Warped rotors are caused by severe braking for long periods, such as when driving down a steep mountain or when towing. Tremendous amounts of friction are created under these conditions, heating up the rotors and causing them to warp. The vibration is felt because the brake pads are not able to grab the surface evenly. If you drive in these conditions, make sure to stop periodically to allow your brakes to cool off.

For many owners, maintaining the vehicle’s brakes is something that is often overlooked. But keeping your brakes properly calibrated and in good working order can prevent costly repairs down the line, and, more importantly, help you avoid a collision.

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Synthetic Motor Oils - Does Your Car Need Them?

Motor oil is one of the most important fluids in your vehicle. The purpose of motor oil is to reduce friction and keep a vehicle’s engine clean and corrosion-free. Another critical function is to buffer heat from moving parts in the engine. Most motor oils are manufactured from petroleum-based crude oil, which is processed into motor oil.

Over time, petroleum-based oils will degrade or break down from the heat and pressure inside the engine. As this occurs, the chemical composition of the oil changes and it becomes contaminated. After thousands of miles, petroleum-based oils are unable to protect the engine and must be replaced.

Synthetic motor oils have a higher tolerance to heat and aging. The performance characteristics of these synthetic lubricants can be custom-designed to exceed the performance limits of petroleum-based motor oils – and their use can possibly increase the life of your engine.

What are the advantages of synthetic oil?

Synthetic oil was developed for high-temperature use in jet aircraft engines decades ago when engineers realized that petroleum-based oils break down and lose their lubricating capabilities when exposed to high heat. Over time, petroleum-based oils began to oxidize and create sludge, leaving damaging residue inside the engine.

Formulated in a laboratory, man-made synthetic oil doesn’t contain the naturally occurring chemicals that break down at high temperatures. It is also manufactured without many of the chemical compositions that contribute to oil oxidation and sludge buildup. Synthetic oil can tolerate temperatures that would burn up petroleum-based oils.

Synthetic oil performs admirably in heat, but also offers many benefits in extreme cold. Petroleum-based motor oil thickens in cold temperatures, requiring the starter and battery to work much harder to start a cold engine. Synthetic oil is not as affected by low temperatures, and it will flow much easier at engine start-up. As an added benefit, the cold temperature properties allow it to be quickly pumped throughout the engine, offering much improved start-up protection against friction.

Custom-designed synthetic oils contain many additives. These keep the inside of the engine clean, and add additional engine protection for extended periods.

What are the disadvantages of synthetic oil?

Quite simply, the biggest disadvantage of synthetic oil is price. With a manufacturing process that is much more involved, synthetic motor oil costs nearly four times the price of petroleum-based motor oil. This means an oil change that would typically cost $20 could cost nearly $80. However, since synthetics are more durable, oil changes are not needed as often, and this fact partially negates the cost disadvantage of synthetics.

What is a synthetic blend?

Regular petroleum-based motor oil and synthetic motor oil are fully compatible, and can be readily mixed. Some manufacturers combine the two types of oil and package the mixture as a synthetic blend. Synthetic-blend oils offer many of the benefits of fully synthetic oil, but at a reduced cost. Be sure to consult your owner’s manual or the vehicle manufacturer before considering a switch to synthetic blend oil.

Does my vehicle need synthetic oil?

There is little doubt that synthetic oil offers superior engine protection under extreme operating conditions. However, many owners may not operate their vehicles in conditions that warrant the additional engine protection of synthetic motor oil. For most owners, petroleum-based motor oils are just fine. Change the oil at the manufacturer’s recommended interval (found in the owner’s manual) and your vehicle will reward you with a long service life.

If your vehicle is turbocharged, used for towing heavy loads, driven on the racetrack, or operated in extreme temperatures, synthetic oil may be beneficial for extended engine life. Each of these harsh operating conditions demand more from your engine and motor oil, and synthetic oil can deliver the needed protection.

One other reason to consider synthetic motor oil is extended periods between oil changes. Petroleum-based oils generally require replacement every 3,500 to 7,500 miles, depending on service use. Synthetic oils can easily offer double the service life as their chemical composition does not break down over time. Several manufacturers have taken advantage of this and supply synthetic oil in their vehicles from the factory to extend oil-change intervals and extend engine longevity. Check your owner’s manual or ask your service advisor if synthetic motor oil may be right for your vehicle or driving style.

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Do You Have A Cracked Windshield?

If you are a Florida resident, with a cracked windshield on your vehicle, your Auto Insurance Company will replace your windshield for FREE. Many are not aware of this fact, while others are skeptical of their rates increasing, or their deductible being higher than the cost of a new windshield.

Truth of the matter is glass breakage, as well as repair or replacement of a windshield, is typically covered by comprehensive insurance coverage which is a type of physical damage coverage. In Florida, when you have this type of policy (or collision) the deductible is waived when the front windshield is being replaced due to damage, such as it being cracked.

Florida Statute 627.7288 states that the deductible shall not apply to windshield damages. However, you must have either comprehensive or collision coverage. A policy that provides liability coverage only will not cover your windshield. If you only have the state minimum required insurance, which is PIP (personal injury protection) and property damage liability (PD), then your windshield would not be covered by these coverage’s.


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Just Say "Show Me The Carfax"

In this day and age, it is important that you make the right decision when spending your hard earned money on a used car. Some vehicles may "look" and "drive" great, but they may have had major issues at some point in time that you should know about.

We research every single vehicle we attempt to purchase, just as you should, to guarantee our customers we sell nothing but Carfax Certified vehicles. On average, we pull 400-500 History Reports, per month, and you would be amazed at some of the issues we come across on some of the nicest "looking" vehicles we have to choose from. So, believe us when we tell you that it is easy to be fooled by the "looks" of a vehicle.

Some of the most common issues we come across are odometer rollbacks, accident indicators, flood area registrations, lemon law vehicles, branded titles, salvage titles, and rebuilt titles. These are all issues with used cars that you will not know just by looking at them and driving them. These issues will ruin your chance of resale in the future.

Although a licensed dealer is required to inform you of any title issues or odometer rollbacks, not all of them will. This is your hard earned money you're spending, so DO NOT feel ashamed or bashful to ask any dealer for a Carfax. If the dealer gives you an excuse like their internet service is down, or they want you to pay for it, DO NOT DO BUSINESS with that dealer, no matter how nice the vehicle may look or drive. 9 times out of 10, the dealer will give an excuse not to show you the Carfax, because they know there is a major issue on the History Report.

We tell everyone, whether they purchase a vehicle from us or not, to call us if they are shopping around and they run into a dealer that has an excuse not to show them the Carfax. We have an unlimited monthly subscription, so it won't cost us any more or less to pull reports for anyone. Heck, even if you're reading this, and we don't have a vehicle you like, hold on to our numbers and call us anyway, if you run into this situation. Lou can be reached @ 813-777-4242 or you can reach Mike @ 813-956-8086. Just tell us you saw us on Merchant Circle and we will pull the Carfax for you for FREE!

Now, one problem a lot of consumers have is reading too far into the report. They tend to shy away from some cars, because of something they may see on the Carfax that scares them away. It is important not to let this happen to you. For example there may be a recorded service record where a certain part may have been replaced. This is NOT a bad thing. Also, although we do not sell vehicles with accident indicators on the History Report, it does not mean that it is a "bad vehicle". When you see this, have a body shop or mechanic inspect the vehicle before you make a decision whether or not to purchase it.

You can save yourself a lot of heartache by saying "Show Me the Carfax".

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Farewell To The Brandon Auto Mall - A Used Car Dealer In Brandon, Florida

Since relocating to Brandon from Wesley Chapel, in July of 2008, we have seen many Big and Small, New and Used Car Dealers in the Brandon area leave us due to direct effects of a Global Economic Slow Down.

Although we are also a Family Owned Used Car Dealer (on a much smaller scale) in Brandon, Florida, we are sad to see the latest loss of a fellow Family Owned, Automotive Giant which was located just 1 mile East of our location on East Brandon Blvd (SR60) - The Brandon Auto Mall.

We're sad to see them go for a number of reasons. One being that quite a few of our personal friends were employed by the Brandon Auto Mall, as well as other Dealerships which were owned by Ernie Haire, a well recognized leader in the Automotive Business across the Tampa area, forced to close and or sell due to a recent Bankruptcy. Another reason being (from a business perspective) the importance of having a competitor that draws as much attention to the area, because of their size, such as the Brandon Auto Mall.

What has helped us get through, without termoil, is not just our direct, honest approach to Internet Marketing (which has earned us a World Wide client base), but our unique way of offering our potential clients a stress free, no pressure opportunity to purchase a quality, Carfax Certified vehicle at an affordable price.

We appreciate the support we get from Brandon, and surrounding area residents, and we want it to be known that we are still going strong, despite the struggles many have faced this year. A noticeable increase in sales, over the past 3 months, gives us reason to believe that not just Brandon, but all of America may have seen the worst of it all.

To those that did not make it through these trying times, we want to wish you well in the future. And for those who made it, smile, 'cause the worst is behind us and the best is yet to come!

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